Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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THANKS for the inputs guys. I really need all the input I can get, sometimes a slap up side the head also works. Its a Nightmare for sure trying to get this right.

i leave the inner fenders loose when doing the early fords. the fender will bow quite a bit to match the hood. but like said the hood is first. cant move the cowl . like the 37 it can be a pia. 37 is worse because of the 3 piece hood .

Trying to make the hood fit the cowl 100% correct is nearly impossible. Had the hood off and on 6-7 times today. Had to elongate some of the hinge holes in the cab to get the hood down to the cowl, its still sitting a bit high. To mount the the fenders out of the way of the hood I'll have to change the mounting holes in the fender or running board in order to drop the rear of the fender about 1/4 to 3/8 inch and than rise the front about 3/4 inch. I just hate making holes bigger than they were originally intended. Theres sure to be more I need to learn .

Still working the front sheet metal an still scratching m head. I had a chance to get a Quick Change rear today. New with bearings, axles, seals retainers and the tags and book. Speedway list this rear at 3200.00 I got this out of a guys garage for 2k. Very happy, just slight surf rust on the tubes.

Very cool rear diff for the truck!

Nice quick change! From everything I've seen and heard on these early fords as far as sheet metal alignment, is basically there were no tight specs at the factory, at all. That's why some doors don't fit well on some bodies. We repainted a 39 Ford when I worked in a body shop years ago. When we got to fitting the front sheet metal, we welded a new inner lip on and then drilled new holes. We had to add some to the back of the hood to get the hood to meet the grill and for the hood to sit correct at the back near the cowl. It was a PITA, but I learned a lot, bled a lot too.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Nice quick change! From everything I've seen and heard on these early fords as far as sheet metal alignment, is basically there were no tight specs at the factory, at all. That's why some doors don't fit well on some bodies. We repainted a 39 Ford when I worked in a body shop years ago. When we got to fitting the front sheet metal, we welded a new inner lip on and then drilled new holes. We had to add some to the back of the hood to get the hood to meet the grill and for the hood to sit correct at the back near the cowl. It was a PITA, but I learned a lot, bled a lot too.

Yup it looks like the hood is going to need a little custom work to look good. Thanks for sharing your experience, I was beginning to think I had some really bad parts.

I stopped by the paint store today to get some paint so I could paint the motor (again), trans and the rear. I wanted to get a Single Stage Urethane in my color of choice. Well I came home with nothing. The paint I choose is a 2015 Ford Bronze Fire and it only comes in 2 stage. Price per gal. $900. I want a paint that won't chip to easy, so that leaves that one out. Unless I can use it and cover it with Chip Guard from TCP Global, Any thoughts ? This would be for the Rear and Trans only. As a uneducated car painter this is driving me nuts. Now I know why I see a lot of primer only builds, the color process is mind boggling.

Navy, I'd go to my local independent paint guy, who's been in the business and painting actively for 50 years and ask him to mix me something in a single stage that's as close as he can get to the shade of the Bronze fire, leaving out any metallic, but that's just me.

Back when I worked in a body shop, we shot many engines with a single stage sikkens. It held up really nice, and didn't break the bank. On my 72 Camaro, I painted the engine a midnight blue metallic pearl. It looked sweet. It held up ok even after being put in a couple different projects over a few years.

Had to do a revision to the hood latch plate. I also moved the safety catch back to its original location. Here's some pic's.

Here's my idea of a hood latch spring, spring centers in the latch and the pin goes up into the latch. It works good but I'm always open for your inputs.

Should save you from catching your elbow on the pin

Todays update> I've picked my color. Painted the tranny and will move on to the rear and engine as weather allows. The color in the trans pic doesn't look like it really is but the others pic's shown are good.


Plan on having black valve covers with this paint. pic isn't to good.

Before it's all said and done I may add some more metallic.

Great color. smooth and shiny is looking good. Thanks for the update pics too.