Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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Arrrrrgh, post deleted....

Issue with wood structure is its more difficult to get it light AND every part share its design load-welded metal isn't that hard-------and in a plane the stress doesn't change evenly on all parts as the G load goes up-yep, everything effected by same G number but as you move inward from wingtip-------goes from nothing to times G, times G, times G,etc,etc,etc


If you need a test pilot-call me---I stayed at a Holiday Express last night!!!!!!!!!!
(did you all hear about the passengers bitching because they had no heat or towels in the Canadian military barracks at Goose Bay ??????

The engine looks very nice! Are parts readily available, or getting hard to come by for those old birds?

Dang.. now I gotta go back and re-read the last several posts. After seeing that motor photo.. I just missed the rest!

And Steve shared an project photo that anyone would be proud to have too!

Good work guys! Now I'll get back to reading ( and trying to pay attention this time) but no promises, it's hard to consider blocking out the pickup roof when faced with a huge V8 like that!

Originally Posted by Navy7797

1st attempt at body filler and block sanding. Still needs more sanding and filler but its a start.

What filler are you using? When you need to cover a large area, I'd try U-pol flyweight. It sands easier than anything I've ever used. U-pol gold glaze is great too, and they can be mixed. If you're getting close enough to "straight", Evercoat superbuild or fiberfill sprayable filler/primer sand easily. With any luck you can sand it down until the first high area shows and quit. Then you're ready for the final primer ( epoxy, urethane, or evercoat slick sand). I've been using it on many of my large areas, like trunk lid and door sides.

U-Pol UP0745 Flyweight Gold Lightweight Body Filler

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/u-po...0-p-17024.aspx

Evercoat Super Build 4:1

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/ever...9-p-11007.aspx

Originally Posted by stovens

For me wood is just an easier medium than metal, but I took wood shop classes in high school along with auto shop, and have done woodworking and carpentry for 30 years. Metal shop on the other hand I didn't take! If I am worried about a precise cut on wood, I simply cut a little long and then sand to where it needs to be. Welding I end up making a mess! I imagine on a plane regauadless of the medium your working in, precission is going to be vitaly important for structural integrity! I never meant to imply rebuilding a wooden plane was easy, nor do I believe did I say that, just commented that I prefer wood to metal.

Hey Stovens I didn't mean my post to sound like I was referring to your post, That was just a statement about how I feel about the wood. Hope all is good ! I like metal to wood myself because when I machine a part it is what I cut with no swelling no hard grain lines and the tooling is so much more accurate or maybe I just like building hotrods more.

Originally Posted by stovens

One of the most challenging wood working projects I ever attempted was making a pencil post bed with 8 sided tapered vertical posts that had a floating mortis and tennon headboard. Thank god for good plans!

Very interesting piece of furniture, doing the 8 sided is hard enough but with a tapper Wow ! Table saw with a jig of some sort ? You could build planes with that skill. Lots of thought and maybe some trial and error, thats how I make a lot of plane parts trial and error , all custom fit to the old fittings. The thing I hate is that once we figure out how to make a part we never have to make it again so its always a new cut, angle or different wood .
If anybody is ever in the San Antonio area let me know and I'll give the grand tour of the shop and aircraft.

Originally Posted by daveS53

What filler are you using? When you need to cover a large area, I'd try U-pol flyweight. It sands easier than anything I've ever used. U-pol gold glaze is great too, and they can be mixed. If you're getting close enough to "straight", Evercoat superbuild or fiberfill sprayable filler/primer sand easily. With any luck you can sand it down until the first high area shows and quit. Then you're ready for the final primer ( epoxy, urethane, or evercoat slick sand). I've been using it on many of my large areas, like trunk lid and door sides.

U-Pol UP0745 Flyweight Gold Lightweight Body Filler

U-Pol Liquid Gold Pourable Glazing Putty

Evercoat Super Build 4:1

Evercoat 709 Slick Sand Polyester Primer Surfacer - Gray

Using 3m platinum body filler.

another pic of roof after more blocking and a reprime. The early pic of the filler was maybe a poor picture of what the end result was after the blocking and recessing some high spots. Theres no spot with more than 1/16 th of filler on it. I hate filler.

Very nice work Navy. I'm envious. I hate doing body work!

Your roof is turning out great!

Well this is the last pic for the next 10 days, my wife is dragging me off on a vacation. I told her we could spend it working on the truck ? My boss wasn't real happy either but that's life. Had to do a little machining on the hard ware but I have the rear disc installed.

Have a great vacation! The truck is looking great!

X2, have a great time while away. The truck will be there when you return.. and so will we!

Work on the truck has been very slow, the body work is kicking my butt I just can't seem to get the surface on the back of the cab to look smooth. Here's a couple pic's of the plane.