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Navy7797 
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06-02-2013 05:41 AM #1
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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X2, you'll need the motor & trans "package" to set / verify heights and alignments. Even it the motor is empty, you can still calculate the centerlines using a dowel if needed. But you must have the intake, basepan and block with a tranny to get your height(s) and angles correct.
Plus, once you rough in the mounts then you can check header fit with steering linkages and brake master/booster clearances, etc. etc. etc..
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06-02-2013 06:15 AM #2
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Does the "helper" make a good wheel chock??
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06-02-2013 06:50 AM #3
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deleting defective linkLast edited by jerry clayton; 06-02-2013 at 07:53 AM.
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06-02-2013 07:10 AM #4
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I couldn't get it to go.. facebook link?
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06-02-2013 07:16 AM #5
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GetAttachment[5].jpgMVC-624F_3_[1].jpgGetAttachment[2].jpg
mAYBE THIS IS BETTER
In 2 of these you can see the fixture I wrote about made out of some channel iron with a center section reversed so a block can lay on top of it locating the crank centerline at the top of frame rails
also ,maybe, you can make out in the first pic toward the rear end that I had made a tube that was the length midliength of shock travel length(ride ht) for the rear end so chassis sat at ride ht as I worked on/mocked stuff up
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06-02-2013 07:20 AM #6
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If you go to my photo gallery here and with it set for 12 pics per page (49-60) on page 5 you can see some of the build on this 32 5 window
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06-02-2013 07:25 AM #7
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Let's try this .. hope you don't mind!
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06-02-2013 07:38 AM #8
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thanks 34----------I have emailed RS about 60 some pics of the buid and hes going to see what he can do about getting them up---
And a great big thanks to Roger for helping me out all the time-----
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06-02-2013 07:46 AM #9
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Jerry,
I think the one that's most applicable is the neat jig you made to set the bare block on, shown in your last group but it's pretty grainy. The jig, made of three pieces of angle, is shown in place across the frame in front of the pipe clamp. The block, minus the crank, would sit on the center section at top-of-frame. Neat!
MVC-624F.JPGRoger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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06-02-2013 07:52 AM #10
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Thanks Roger
And you can see plainly the 2 tubing pieces I used on the rear suspension to similate ride height at mid point of the coil overs I used. also visable is the motor mounts are installed and hanging just behind where my block fixture is laying in the photo.
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06-02-2013 09:00 AM #11
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u 1937 Caddy Coupe
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Hey thanks for the inputs guys, all very helpful. I hope to have an engine with a crank and harmonic balancer soon so I can check all clearances from the front cross member and from the radiator back and get this moving along again.
Thanks again !!
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06-02-2013 09:37 AM #12
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My dog Pretzel likes to help too, but his measuring skills are off, heck that's why I had to move my engine forward a inch, last year!
" 
"No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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06-02-2013 11:46 AM #13
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Pretzel maybe a little twisted
don't trust him
Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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06-02-2013 01:01 PM #14
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I would suggest that you make a fixture like my channel iron piece and use a mockup block without a crank in it so as you position the engine it keeps the crank c/l at top frame level and level side to side--------its easy to measure and slide sideways for centering the crank or for any amount of offset--
Put the engine pretty much as far reaware as you can depending on distributor clearance and bell housing to firewall----------------that will give you the most room for accessories on front altho there may be some allowances you'll have to make depending on where you mount alternator and a/c.
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06-10-2013 05:59 PM #15
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3rd attempt at posting tonight, can't seem to hit the right button !
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Jerry: I made a fixture like yours but it seems to hold the engine high and would cause me to have a big tranny tunnel through my cab. Is there any thing wrong with having the center line of the crank lower than the top of the frame rail ? pictures shows 2 inches of clearance.
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![GetAttachment[5].jpg](http://www.clubhotrod.com/attachments/hot-rod-build-logs/58136d1370182316-1940-ford-pickup-getattachment-5-.jpg){kind=link}
![MVC-624F_3_[1].jpg](http://www.clubhotrod.com/attachments/hot-rod-build-logs/58137d1370182317-1940-ford-pickup-mvc-624f_3_-1-.jpg){kind=link}
![GetAttachment[2].jpg](http://www.clubhotrod.com/attachments/hot-rod-build-logs/58138d1370182318-1940-ford-pickup-getattachment-2-.jpg){kind=link}
I did not know Mike very well, we exchanged some messages from time to time but from what I understand he was a very good man. I was sad to learn about this
We Lost a Good One