Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

The pistons should clear the heads unless the heads have been maybe angle milled---------or, possibly(seen it several times) they are installed backwards??????????

You can use your 327 stuff in a 350 block but you'll need to get a set of spacer main bearings------

I haven't seen why they won't work with my own eyes, going by what my engine builder told me. This motor as with the 327 came in a box completely apart. Heads have been milled/cut at least once. I'll have to look into it further and see what and the why's of it. I think its valve clearance issue vice the actual head itself. I wish I had the confidence to build it my self but its been 30 yrs since my last engine build.

Hey Navy, I really like how you did your new X Member of your frame. I think I just figured out how I want to do my 40's. Thanks.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Hey Navy, I really like how you did your new X Member of your frame. I think I just figured out how I want to do my 40's. Thanks.

I started by looking at pictures of frames on the internet. Then bought some tube .100" wall and started bending. Thats the short of it. Of course it wasn't exactly the easy. Getting the end product to come out the same length and radius took some work and a little cut and splice. The splices were to get match length and done with sleeves inside with holes drilled in outer tube than welded and of course welded around the seam. The depth of the tubes inboard of the frame rails was determined by the power booster for the brakes that is mounted between the rail and the tube frame work. The rest all came from the pictures that I saw on the net. I did make a wood template from plywood to use to help get the radius and lengths right. Length can be gotten right the first time if your not in a rush and think it through. I can give you more info on the lay-out pre-bending if you like.

Looks like you'll be ok---putting those power brake boosters down there sure eats up room for left side exhaust

Altho it might not work on yours with the leaf springs----but a car with coil overs on the rear can use a setup for a late 90s up to 2004 Mustang for mufflers and tail pipes--takes a little shortening where the tip is but they line up under the frame rail beside the fuel tank(33-34 type fords)

Project seems to be coming along nicely

Jerry: Your right about that left side exhaust it's going to take some plumbing.
Today I made a bracket to hold the yoke the supports the front fenders. Its 1/4 thick 7" wide and tapers down to 5" at the radius, 8" hanging forward of the cross member. To my surprise it has flex in it and I may need to put gussets under it. Trying to get all things welded to the frame before I sandblast and paint it, I hate burning good paint. Today's pic's, input welcome.

Looks really nice! I might use square tubing when I do mine. I won't have all the clearance you have due to how far my engine sets back, and how wide my trans is. I'd like to sneal power brakes in there, but like Jerry said, the exhaust will be tight through there. We shall see when I get back on it.

Just some pic's as I assemble and disassemble to make sure things are fitting. Next I'm going to hang all the front sheet metal and check the tire clearance and fender fit to the cab etc. Reason is that I want to be sure that the cab blocks are the right height

Nice to see the progress. It's looking good.

Looking good. I'd like to get back on mine soon.

Just for anybody's info this is where I got my frame work idea's from. Couldn't afford the factory made ones and its more fun to make your own { IMHO }.

Frame Chassis Tube Crossmembers Chevy Ford Plymouth willys | Progressive Automotive

Thanks for the link, and by the way, I really like your shop space!

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Thanks for the link, and by the way, I really like your shop space!

Shop space is great I just wish it wasn't 35 miles away from my house. I insulated it past winter and what a difference it makes, got rid of the big tin can effect.

I know that feeling. I used to rent a shop 30 miles away from my house, but it was on my way to work. It was a concrete building with a flat roof. Talk about worst for all seasons. Haha

For what it's worth: I remember years ago watching an 'old school' panel beater do lead work.
He had his torch in his right hand, and the lead and a wet rag tied around the end of a dowel in his left.
The lead between thumb and fore-finger and the dowel between his little finger and ring finger, and tucked into his palm.
He'd melt the lead, then quickly dab it with the dowel/rag which stopped it running.
It looked easy when he did it!

You might consider using a heat gun instead of a torch for more control of the melt point - How do I load lead? | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques