Thread: 1940 Ford Pickup

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Originally Posted by Navy7797

You can't neutralize what you can't reach. The inside has a rolled lip. The lead will seal it all from the outside. I want to lead it but can't. Unless I can sand or scotch bite it clean enough to get a filet of lead to stick there.

You're in Catch 22 - you don't want to flux because you don't want the acids in the flux to wick into the rolled lip, but the lead absolutely will not stick to the parent metal without flux. Lead/solder won't stick to a base metal, even if it's sterilized, without flux. Seems to me that the small amount of residual acids in the rolled lip will be totally encased in lead, absent any oxygen. Once any bonded oxygen is used up it couldn't corrode further, could it? Just thinking, and scratching my head a bit on this one.
If I were still in the office I'd be chatting with one my ChemE co-workers over a cup of coffee.

Originally Posted by rspears

You're in Catch 22 - you don't want to flux because you don't want the acids in the flux to wick into the rolled lip, but the lead absolutely will not stick to the parent metal without flux. Lead/solder won't stick to a base metal, even if it's sterilized, without flux. Seems to me that the small amount of residual acids in the rolled lip will be totally encased in lead, absent any oxygen. Once any bonded oxygen is used up it couldn't corrode further, could it? Just thinking, and scratching my head a bit on this one.
If I were still in the office I'd be chatting with one my ChemE co-workers over a cup of coffee.

So I e-mailed a ChemE friend and he says my idea sucks He says that he's not a fan of "tinning" due to the potential for long term corrosion, so I explained that normally one tins, then washes with a baking soda neutralizing rinse before going on with the leading which doesn't work here due to the rolled joint.
Maybe you could have someone TIG the joint for you, then lead it? If that's not an option then maybe a skim coat of good quality body filler is in your future?