Thread: '37 Oze build

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Heidts Hot Rod & Muscle Car Parts


Sorry, don't know why or how




Try going to the www.Heidts.com web site, across the top of page go to instructions, down on left side


Crossmember kits
1935-1940 ford


Control arms
tubular mustang upper a - arms
tubular coil over lower full a arms




or something like that

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Heidts Hot Rod & Muscle Car Parts


Sorry, don't know why or how




Try going to the www.Heidts.com web site, across the top of page go to instructions, down on left side


Crossmember kits
1935-1940 ford


Control arms
tubular mustang upper a - arms
tubular coil over lower full a arms




or something like that

Here's the Heidt's Uppers, referenced in Jerry's post:
http://www.heidts.com/Content/Instructions/in-021.pdf

And the lower's:
http://www.heidts.com/Content/Instructions/in-103.pdf

These Heidt's A-Arms & cross shafts don't look anything like what you've posted. Maybe RideTech just copied the Heidt's geometry?

Originally Posted by 34_40

I thought I'd try to say it with a picture.. the twist you see in the red circles is wrong! this whole shaft assembly need to be straight and in alignment.

A picture is worth a thousand words!

.

it does look like the uppers are on the wrong sides. from the pic they look to have different lengths .

Removed by author.

Well, I've got to say that I'm surprised by what I read in item 7 of the instructions for the Heidt's Super Ride 2 - http://www.heidts.com/Content/Instructions/in-027.pdf
Indeed they say that caster is adjusted using the rod ends, which surprises me a lot. HOWEVER, they clearly state that when the system is installed at ride height it should have one degree of positive caster built in (rod ends equally spaced) AND that you're only looking for a maximum additional one to two degrees of adjustment for a total of two to three degrees positive. It sure looks like you've got too much cranked into yours with the amount of offset in those rod ends. Have you confirmed all of the measurements shown in the figures? Something's not right.

advice not needed

Start over???????????? do you mean go all the way back to seeing that the boards he used between the tires and rear frame section were the same thickness?????? or that the wheels didn't have any run out that effected that portion of this fiasco???
And it has been said bu others than me that the control arms could be on the wrong side?????????
This has been a zoo from the beginning and has progressed down the wrong y in the road at about every opurtunity to go the wrong direction-----------sometimes we need to back up a block or two before we get into second gear----------


The answer to solving this at this point is to build some new upper control arms---------assuming that the lower ball joint is at the correct/identical distance for wheel base-----------


if it was mine, I would remove that whole upper bracket (coil over/ upper control arm) and install a Heidts correctly angled for caster and anti dive-----------

Dave,
I went back and re-read your post #58. By cutting 0.520" off of the front of the lower A-arm mount you've totally destroyed the built in one degree of positive caster that was designed into the cross-member to upper A-arm mount. Shifting the 1/4" washer on top from the front to the back only added to the now extreme negative caster problem. In hindsight it seems pretty clear that your crossmember was installed improperly relative to the frame, and then the upper A-arm mounts were installed improperly, too. The frame probably should have been taken back to the guys at OZE when you first discovered the wheelbase problem, but that's water under the bridge and now that you've cut on it I'd think you own the problem. You're not going to pull 3/4" of mounting problems out with rod end adjustment. I'd say that you're headed towards cutting out the whole IFS assembly, trying to get it back to as-built in all respects or perhaps even ordering a new one from Heidt's (or whoever), and starting from scratch with the IFS install. If you're not 100% confident in your ability to follow the instructions to a T, it's time to cart it to someone with the expertise and get the front end installed right. A good shop might be able to salvage whats there, but I think you need more than a small square and a plumb bob to get this one fixed.

Best of luck getting it sorted out.

advice not needed.

it would take 20 min to swap the a arms side to side.

Removed by author.

What extreme negative caster? If the upper & lower A-arms were installed per spec you had one degree of positive caster, but your measurements told you that the lower A-arm was 1/2" too far forward, and the upper was 1/4" too far back. You then cut the lower, and shifted the upper as noted, which tilted the ball joint line forward creating negative caster.

Dave, it's obvious that you've convinced yourself that you're right, so continuing to point out the problems here is fruitless. I think you're headed for a train wreck, but for me I'll not bother you further about anything you're doing here. I wish you best of luck in the rest of your build.

Originally Posted by daveS53

I started working in a machine shop back in 1971, making aircraft parts. I worked at that profession for 5 years full time and 5 years part time, while I got my mechanical engineering degree. The next 10 years was spent engineering manufacturing processes for nuclear weapons components and the next 12 was in facilities engineering at the same 3 million square foot facility where the nuclear weapons parts are made. I can handle precision measurement better than most folks.

With all your experience and expertise, why are you asking???

If the builder did a terrible job, talk to your attorney.


.

One thing about nuclear bombs is you don't have to be very accurate




Dave, let me pass on to you and any others who may be interested----------your working with the rear end first is totally ass backwards---you really should of established a centerline of the chassis from one end to the other---you could do that with a piece of welding, wire, aircraft safety wire, etc---then work on the front end---it is not uncommon to have an inch of difference in the wheel base side to side--------work with the chassis level and at a ride height from a work table/jig/etc---
assemble/evaluate the front suspension thru its entire travel arc at all positions of height---
with the front end worked out, then you work on the rear end so that the wheel alignment is parallel front and back again making sure that it remains so thru out the up/down and twist side to side looking for any binding in the travel and there will be some-------a board between a tire and the frame rail is not the way to do it---check your wheel run out axle run out for any wobble that the hard parts do----the rubber tire is just that, a rubber tire----it is nothing to use when your dealing with fabrication and alignment issues also plan ahead for issues with u-joint drive line angles--------


Its pretty hard to write a short version on probably what should be hundreds of pages---------