Thread: '37 Oze build

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Dave-------------you can't run those long upper bolts thru those upper A-arm ends at those angles-get some rod ends like heims or something similar so the bolt can align with the center of the bushings----------


I was only being funny about accuracy with a nucleur bomb------------I know a little bit about some of that --

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Dave--how far offset is the pinion??????????? Do you mean that the housing lump is centered resulting in the pinion being offset????What is the length of the driveshaft??????????


and I love digital levels and all sorts off lazor stuff

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Dave----You can tip the tire in at the bottom to get the top out----I used to have to not only do that for the slicks on my 59 ford but had to reach behind the wheel and get out the brake drum for a little more clearance---then when the slick was up in the fender well, put the brake drum back on the axle and then the wheel---might not work for you but just thinking---of course back in those days (early 60s) nuclear stuff was at the height of every country's priorities---

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Dave . . . not sure if this idea would work for you or not; but with tyres/rims that need that sort of manipulation I've found a shovel to be very good at making things easier.
Slide the blade curved-side-up underneath the tyre, put one foot on the handle, and swing/swivel the tyre on the blade, lifting or dropping your foot at the same time as appropriate.
Might not look very dignified; but it works in most cases!

Just a thought.

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Looks like you've been busy! And while I thank you for the pictures, can I ask for a different angle /view? The effect on the rear fenders is hard to picture /imagine with a close up. And the tailpipes aren't really visible at this angle.

Hope you don't think I'm complaining! I'm just trying to see the same thing as you and what you're after!!! TIA

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Those pics are quite a bit better thank you! It's looking good from here! Those fenders will add a nice custom touch and separate you from the herd..

It sure aggravates me to see you had to spend all that time fitting your rear fenders. I did nothing but bolt my fenders up and had a perfect fit to the body with the Oze I bought back in 2007. No body work of any kind done in that area of car. The only fixing I had to do was a couple inches on the left cowl area where it meets the hood which took maybe 10 minutes to fix. No other bondo (two part surface enhancer as Chip Foose calls it) in the whole car. Don't see how the new Oze owners can take the same molds the old owners used and screw things up so bad. I scuffed up the glossy fiberglass, a little spot putty where I sanded down the seams from the fiberglass mold, primed a couple real heavy coats and wet sanded to a show car straightness. Less time spent preparing for paint than any car I have ever built. I did the slant back model and was considering doing the coupe in the future but with all the trouble you are having I sure won't ever consider it any more.