Thread: '37 Oze build

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One thing about nuclear bombs is you don't have to be very accurate




Dave, let me pass on to you and any others who may be interested----------your working with the rear end first is totally ass backwards---you really should of established a centerline of the chassis from one end to the other---you could do that with a piece of welding, wire, aircraft safety wire, etc---then work on the front end---it is not uncommon to have an inch of difference in the wheel base side to side--------work with the chassis level and at a ride height from a work table/jig/etc---
assemble/evaluate the front suspension thru its entire travel arc at all positions of height---
with the front end worked out, then you work on the rear end so that the wheel alignment is parallel front and back again making sure that it remains so thru out the up/down and twist side to side looking for any binding in the travel and there will be some-------a board between a tire and the frame rail is not the way to do it---check your wheel run out axle run out for any wobble that the hard parts do----the rubber tire is just that, a rubber tire----it is nothing to use when your dealing with fabrication and alignment issues also plan ahead for issues with u-joint drive line angles--------


Its pretty hard to write a short version on probably what should be hundreds of pages---------

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Dave-------------you can't run those long upper bolts thru those upper A-arm ends at those angles-get some rod ends like heims or something similar so the bolt can align with the center of the bushings----------


I was only being funny about accuracy with a nucleur bomb------------I know a little bit about some of that --

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Dave--how far offset is the pinion??????????? Do you mean that the housing lump is centered resulting in the pinion being offset????What is the length of the driveshaft??????????


and I love digital levels and all sorts off lazor stuff

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Dave----You can tip the tire in at the bottom to get the top out----I used to have to not only do that for the slicks on my 59 ford but had to reach behind the wheel and get out the brake drum for a little more clearance---then when the slick was up in the fender well, put the brake drum back on the axle and then the wheel---might not work for you but just thinking---of course back in those days (early 60s) nuclear stuff was at the height of every country's priorities---

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Dave . . . not sure if this idea would work for you or not; but with tyres/rims that need that sort of manipulation I've found a shovel to be very good at making things easier.
Slide the blade curved-side-up underneath the tyre, put one foot on the handle, and swing/swivel the tyre on the blade, lifting or dropping your foot at the same time as appropriate.
Might not look very dignified; but it works in most cases!

Just a thought.

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Looks like you've been busy! And while I thank you for the pictures, can I ask for a different angle /view? The effect on the rear fenders is hard to picture /imagine with a close up. And the tailpipes aren't really visible at this angle.

Hope you don't think I'm complaining! I'm just trying to see the same thing as you and what you're after!!! TIA

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Those pics are quite a bit better thank you! It's looking good from here! Those fenders will add a nice custom touch and separate you from the herd..