Thread: '37 Oze build

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Always a blast for that first ride or start up! Certainly a milestone.

It's coming along very nicely! I bet it feels great to drive it some!

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It might be an inlet air temp especialy if its when the fan kicks on------not that the fan is causing it, but that an temp sensor might be faulty-


most mass air flow sensor controls are pretty good unless you have an vacume leak or severe temp control issue




I can't tell from the pics I've seen where your Mass airflow sensor is located , but if it is down in those pipes/bends---you may be able to correct it somewhat by clocking the sensor to a different side of the tube-----------We have had a few occasions where the maf was located near a bend that the rotation of it solved a lot of flow sense erratic readings-----------


Just in case your questioning my comments---------My son Corey does all the NicKey Chicago Camaros and I quite often assist him when there are unusual set ups-------

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Corey is picking up an engine from here tomorrow and I'll try to remember to show him this pic-----------

Showed Corey the pic this morning---suggested that tables probably needed to be flow calibrated/compensation----------and suggested that you could undo the two outside wires on the maf as they are for temp and put a temp sensor up nearer the engine--if you tell me what ECM you have he can then give you the temp sensor number as I guess there are different calibrations depending on the ecm----what ever happened to the temp/ohms standard????????????


A couple suggestions from me----------you are at Loveland and I don't remember the altitude there but at higher alts and temps I know things get much more sensitive dealing with horsepower and air/fuel ratios--------and since now ambient temps are fairly cool and when your fan kicks on pulling hot air (180*+) from the rad and covering the airfilter with it, it must be a pretty sudden severe chance and the ecm may be going into the limp mode-----------


A thought or two ----can you reverse the tube so the sensor is further from the filter?????might have to turn the map around(considering that its correct orientation now?)


And further----can you re arrange both of those elbows to where the filter is on top of the engine ? This would get the inlet up into more steady air, especially for when you get a hood on it-----


anyway, waiting for the ecm number---will be a letter followed by two digit number---example E38-----

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Those things are really sensitive to air path changes. Try taking the air filter off to see if it makes a change. The factory recommends the MAF at the END of a 6" straight section in order for the air turbulence to stabilize. The bends cause the air to go fast on the long side and slow on the short radius side....making turbulence. For my 39, we had fits with the bends. We tried the LS3 MAF, an aftermarket programmable MAF, and a GM 15900024 MAF. Steve Sbelgio had probably 40 hours + in the tune to get it nice. The factory tune is based on some air tract and filter design (such as the Corvette) and adding bends will affect the game. Your shield idea will help consistency.

mike in tucson

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I had the same MAF at the start of my adventure, went to three different programmable units (aftermarket) purchased from Summit and finally now have the 15900024 GM part. Mine had a similar problem of difficulty stabilizing idle coming off a throttle open situation. We tried locating the MAF different locations to find stable air. Turbulence really screws up the MAF reading....it needs laminar flow. If you look at a newer corvette, the air path is from the entry, thru the filter, and a gentle
curve into the throttle body. For mine, we ended up with two corvette paper filters but several bad 90 degree bends.

here is a pic of the installation on my 39