Thread: '37 Oze build

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You haven't asked for any comments or suggestions, but why would you put your MAF in the center of the straight run? Wouldn't it make more sense to locate it at the end of the straight run, just before entering the bend, just past your weld? It's been stated about a dozen times that the sensors want to see laminar flow, and are extremely sensitive to turbulence, so why not take advantage of all the straight run you have?

Originally Posted by rspears

You haven't asked for any comments or suggestions, but why would you put your MAF in the center of the straight run? Wouldn't it make more sense to locate it at the end of the straight run, just before entering the bend, just past your weld? It's been stated about a dozen times that the sensors want to see laminar flow, and are extremely sensitive to turbulence, so why not take advantage of all the straight run you have?

That is why you do it the easy way and eliminate the MAF all together and find a tuner that knows what he is doing. I personally hate MAF sensors and everything I have stuck a GEN 3 or 4 LS engine in gets run SD.

At your altitude the maf sensor is a vital element along with the map and O2 sensors for the rapid tuning in the elevation changes---


as for the engine stalling as you come to a stop---try raising the idle a little---most of the late model NicKey cars seem to remember that they idle at aprox 850rpm--it could be that you will need to tweque the throttle body just a bit-----


If you want, I'll ask Corey if he'll take a look at your scan and maybe give you some suggestions. I do know that they take a lot of time working out the maf numbers because they all seem to be effected by dozens of fitment issues

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Originally Posted by daveS53

If I follow the instructions, I can't be blamed for the engine not running right.

Deleted. No comment.

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Dave, great looking build and even though you're having some issues (to be expected) it still sounds like you're having loads of fun. I'm planning to pick up one of OZE's 37 coupes myself but from reading your posts it really looks like the build quality may have gone down. Considering all the issues, do you still think you made the right choice with an OZE glass body?

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I found this site a few days ago and have spent a considerable amount of time reading all your posts on this build "good stuff". Some things that you've identified with the build quality are : - / (not so great) and it really sounds like Tim and the folks at OZE should consider adding metal into the door construction to make things a little easier. I agree, investing 80 hours into a door isn't the most productive way to spend your time but in the end, you might be happier with functional windows.

Really looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the window channel.

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Once you get your doors mounted and gapped in "final" position it really helps to drill two nominal 1/16" holes through your inner door panel & hinge to facilitate alignment when you pull the doors again. You hang the door, jockey it around to insert a finishing nail in your alignment holes, and snug your hinge bolts. Works for the deck lid, too. Usually works best to drill them before you take them apart the first time, but that assumes they're aligned right when you get it....

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DO drill the alignment holes. You can then take off and reinstall doors in minutes and get an immediate perfect alignment. Saves hours of time on reassembly and no wear and tear on the nerves getting aggravated trying to realign them and no damage paint from sliding the door all around trying to get it aligned again. I have always used the short 1/8" drill bits you get at a body shop supply house. I drill three holes in each hinge just to make sure I get exact alignment later, then on reassembly just stick these short drill bits in all the holes of the door and hinge and tighten the hinge bolts and you are done. Been doing this for 20 years and always get perfect alignment on assembly ( assuming I had perfect alignment before drilling the holes of course :-) )

I did exactly what you are thinking about for your window sweepers on my Oze car. I used the 3/4 inch aluminum bent to the curve of the door and bonded to the fiberglass of the door then glued the sweeps to the aluminum using the tube of adhesive used for installing windshields. The car came with felt sweeps for both sides of the window but I wanted rubber on the outside to help keep more water out of the door and electric window mechanism, etc. so I bought a long section of the type of rubber sweep used on 1970's Chevelles for the outside sweep and used the felt sweeps on the inside. Looked like a perfect factory door installation when I got done and window sealed up nice.

Sorry to hear about all the hours getting your windows mechanism and window channel installed. Oze from Canada had all that installed and windows running up and down perfectly when I bought mine. The new guys are really cutting corners on their product.

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My Oze and the 32 Ford glass car I am building now does have brackets at the bottom of the channel to hold channel in place so window always comes down in the exact same place each time and has no movement when in down position.

you are probably right on the space needed to get the window out in the door with a frame. when I take windows out of regular production cars (Chevelle, Camaro, etc.) I always remove the window felts first. My Oze was hardtop so I didn't have that issue to contend with. But once glass is in on final assembly it is very unlikely it will need to be taken out again. Most cars are run for decades without removing the door window glass. Being a street rod this will surely happen sooner though and a cutting out of the existing window felts and installing new felts would be necessary unless you can squeeze glass in with felts installed.