Thread: '37 Oze build

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This is actually a pic of my car. This car was built in Canada and I spent some time at the factory with the original Oze owners. I have read some of your post about quality. You have to keep in mind the plugs for these cars were hand carved by eye for the molds. You will not find exact side to side dimensions on these cars. My car is being built for the autorama show circuit thats why I have skin coated some of the body, It must be 100%. much of the skin coating you see on the roof is for the seems. You should not just sand the seems flush and apply primer, If you do you risk impressions of the seems coming up down the road. The seems should be sanded slightly below the surface and covered with Bondo (that process should be used on any glass body). All in all these are great quality bodies but will require work to make them perfect. My grill does has a small gap at the bottom but not anything like I see in you pics, and my grill looks like jewelry.

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Just a quick question: Are the doors reinforced where the rivets and screws are installed (inside door view)? if not, do you think the holes will woller-out over time, especially where they're holding the window operators?

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Great looking car!!! And especially with that beautiful scenery in the background... awesome@@@

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I know what you mean on that large front nose section. Hard to handle the way it is. The guy I sold my Oze car to took the front end off and cut the front nose section in half to make it easier to put back on and fit up each side on reassembly. he made an aluminum panel with brush finish to go above the radiator to use as a way to bolt the two sections back together and no one knows it is two pieces now. Wish I had done that originally. If you ever would need just one side off for maintenance or ??? you could do that. think about it.....

For your information and review, this is the SEMA Tag & Title information which compiles all of the definitions and policies relative to registering a street rod vehicle in Colorado. http://www.bipac.net/semaga/TagTitleToolbox_CO.pdf It appears to me that you will have either a "Kit Vehicle" or a "Specially Constructed Vehicle", but that's between you and the DMV. My '33 glass car in Kansas is a "2010 ASEV (assembled specialty equipment vehicle) 1933 Ford", taxed as a 2010 with value equal to the dollars spent to build it.

Ya' know Dave, you never ask for advice, so comments after the fact are about the only thing you can get but I've gotta tell you, my body/paint guy told me crystal clear that "bondo hair" or "kitty hair" or whatever other name you apply to the body filler with chopped up fiberglass mixed in is NOT suitable for a structural edge repair. That stuff is filler, to be used for relatively minor depressions or to bring an existing surface up to meet an adjacent surface. The proper way to extend an edge is to grind back the gel coat and 1/2 of the panel thickness a distance at least equal to or greater than the fill area, and then lay in layers of fiberglass cloth & resin to integrate the extended surface with the existing body. In the case of your passenger door, the "right" way to extend that 7/16" gap would be to grind back the body nominal 3/4" to 1" minimum, and then lay in glass to build the edge to the desired point. A common method is to cover the mating surface (your door) with aluminum foil, wax it and use it as a form to fill to with glass & resin.
Now I could be totally off base, but I trust my paint shop guy who grew up in the business and is approaching retirement. I don't expect that you're going to grind out the bondo, but you should if you want it right.... Just my $0.02, and others may shoot me down.

Good luck with the Colorado DMV. I had to jump through hoops to register my 73 charger.

AND. Their fees are exorbitant.

Dave, glad to see that you added new post / picss. I checked back for the last few days, hoping to catch up on your progress but I understand how things like "Life" and "Wife" can modify our plans. I just wanted to add, If you're in the market for the rest of your wiring harness, there's a great company called ISIS Power that I ran into on the SEMA and Rodder's sites. These guys have a totally different approach to wiring that not only reduces the cabling footprint, but also helps to simplify the installation and even helps with troubleshooting. Not sure if I'm allowed to post links to company's but if you're curious, Google isispower or even better, pop the name into You Tube. They have lots of videos and installs out there to explain their approach. BTW, great progress keep it coming.

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I'm having trouble understanding what you did. To clarify, are you saying that in the first picture in your last post above (#254) the area of concern was the stepped void where the outer skin back side is exposed in a nominal 90 degree flange, which gets wider toward the bottom? And that in the second & third pictures you've filled that void with "bondo hair", making it even with the surface immediately forward which you had smoothed & raised, also with "bondo hair"? How does that relate to the second picture in your post #248, which seems to show a nominal 1/2" extension of the front piece to bring it back to meet the door edge?

Also, when we use the term "bondo" it is generally in the generic for "body filler". What filler product line (brand name) are you using?