Thread: '37 Oze build

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Dave, I made a tool on my lathe to do exactly what you are going to do I think, my concern was the tube the bolt passes through had to be cut very squarley to fit against the rod end and really there was nothing to cut it that square so I made this rotary tool to go in a heavy hand drill, the end fits into the DOM tubing and is 5/8" OD (same as the through bolt), I then welded a 1/2" carbide lathe bit to the part of the shaft thats not reduced down (I believe its 3/4") and then turned the other end down to 1/2" to fit in a portable drill, I inserted it into the tubing and the thing will eat the end of the tubing off with little effort but since its turning it cuts it squarely, your welcome to borrow it if needed just let me know. If you have a chance to snag a lathe do as they are great tools and a lot of parts can be made.
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Its square, my tubes are 5/16 wall also, it will take 'er right down. I think you have my email, drop me your address and it will be on its way, just send it back when your done, you can't hurt it either, if you do no loss. Matthyj

Got the cutting tool yesterday. Looks like it will do the job. I do have one small problem though - the pivots tubes have a large enough bore for a 5/8" bolt, but not quite large enough for the pilot on the cutting tool, even though it's about .624". I've only tried one of the four ends where I may trim a little material off. I may have to get myself a .625 reamer or flex hone to slightly enlarge the bore in the pivot tubes.

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Dave, Feel free to chuck the tool in your drill or drill press and run a file against it to reduce the OD of the pilot, won't hurt a thing. Best of luck

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Dave, I generally pass by your posts as you don't seem to like advice from others, but you need to be very cautious. IMO your seats and every mount for the seat belts need to be connected to a common structural point. If your seats are mounted to the body, then your seat belts need to be mounted to the body, too. In a bad collision it is not uncommon for the body to be pulled free from the chassis, especially on a glass car even with CoreMat in the critical panels (read this as "floor" and "roof"). With your seats connected to the body and any belt connection tied to the frame then you become the peanut butter in the sandwich when things come apart. If you're intent on tying things to the frame, then you need to have structural integrity for ALL mounting points, which equates to the body being able to be ripped away, leaving you and your passenger sitting in your seats still hooked to the chassis, and everything tied to the body gone. Basically you build a full cage from frame up, mount your seats & belts to that cage assembly with no ties to the body, and you're golden. Again, IMO, and you may choose to ignore my advice.

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daveS53,
Would you mind sharing the model number of your Wilwood front brakes? Did you use the stock spindles supplied by Oze?
I'm not sure what brand of spindles I have on my 5 window coupe.

I have part number 140-7140-DR on the rear and 140-10742-D on the front. Oze supplies pinto/mustang II spindles and that's what I used.

You may have read that I'm unimpressed with the braking power from the 1" corvette style master and 7" dual diaphragm booster. I'm getting ready to change to a Wilwood 7/8" master and an 8" dual diaphragm booster. The larger booster will barely fit and won't hang down any lower than the transmission oil pan. The ground clearance on my car is just a hair less than my new Corvette. The engine sits really low. I'm also considering installing a proportioning valve for both the front and rear circuits. I have one at the rear now, but it's running wide open, with no restriction, which would suggest that a valve is needed on the front, to allow more rear braking, before the front locks up.

Also, don't bother with a Lokar or similar parking brake lever. It won't work well at all - not nearly enough leverage. I went with an e-stopp electric parking brake actuator that puts out 600 lbs of pull, after removing my Lokar setup.

Wilwood High Performance Disc Brakes - Rear Brake Kit Product Number: 140-7140-DR

Wilwood High Performance Disc Brakes - Front Brake Kit Product Number: 140-10742-D