Thread: '37 Oze build

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You can have them powder coated any color, I had some parts powder coated chrome and they look very nice and it was reasonably priced.

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Believe it or not, Ace Hardware has a great selection of stainless screws, button head included. At least here in California that is.

Originally Posted by daveS53

The seat is located in the normal driving position, for me. I sit well behind the side window opening, so I have to lean forward to look 90 degrees, out the side of the car.

Deja Vu for me. My '30 Model A Tudor sedan with a BBC needed enough firewall setback that I mostly looked out the rear side window.

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daveS53,
How big of an opening did you cut out of the frame to facilitate the remove of your trany? I think I need to remove mine and replace the torque converter with one with a larger stall rpm. I don't want to pull the engine and your way looks the easiest. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Originally Posted by daveS53

Tim Taylor

Da, without Al, he's just a tool guy. ARRRRRRRR ARRRRRRRRR

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Originally Posted by daveS53

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CF41qHk0s8

I saw that video the last time you posted it. The owner was one of the oddest ducks I've ever seen. Don't sit in it, don't drive it, won't start it.

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Dave, I still stick with on mustang II suspension your bottom a arms should be pretty much level, upper arms are fine if angled down toward the ball joint, also I know your daily driver my have a ton of travel but streetrods typically don't, when I put on my first Heidts superide I talked with Jerry Slover owner of Pete & Jakes and I remember him saying 20 yrs or so ago a independent or dropped axle on a streetrod typically has 3" of travel, after all its a streetrod. I have installed several front ends,3 heidts and several others (MustangII) and angled upper arms have always been the norm, no binding as they only have about 3" of travel just as Jerry told me years ago. I believe the Oze as I have mentioned uses a modified mustang II geometry, not superride or superide II the difference is no spring pocket but modified to use coilovers and threaded adjusters on the upper arms no slots, my wildrod I know for fact is Mustang II as I measured it and ordered all the parts as I didn't get the suspension with the car, bottom a arms are stock mustang II's narrowed 5/8", mustang II spindles and modified mustang II upper arms with threaded adjusters, all with Aldan Eagle coilovers, granted yours could be different but it doesn't look like it, the package resembles a superide but its not nor is the geometry, its mustang II. I could be wrong but start measuring or call the manufacturer as I always say and ask them, they will know and they want to tell you as they want your ride safe, their reputation and business depend on it (as well as their liability insurance). Anyway mine is aligned and drives awesome as a mustang II. As for my superide on my '32 its aligned and sets differently, lower arms angled as instructed. Neither have more than 3" of travel. I am only trying to save you grief on reengineering something that has been proven a million times in streetrods as well as saving you dollars, Most aftermarket mustang II a arms use the larger Volare screw in balljoint, top and bottom as they are much stronger as their where no 4000 lb mustang II's. Best of luck