Thread: '37 Oze build

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Dave after reading Jerry & Rogers post I hadn't realized that the mount centerline for the upper a arms has been changed?? You can see that the pivot for the upper a arms on yours is pretty much the same height as the upper shock mounting bolt, on mine the pivot is much lower, getting rid of the cattywampus angle it is, I think Jerry is right it has altered the suspension geometry so much that you may have to do something more extreme with your approach to a solution, possibly order a new cross member and graft on the top part to get back to your original geometry, this is all assuming you had changed that part?? When I received my frame like I mentioned I didn't have the bolt on items, however I had rides I had built with Mustang II suspensions and I measured all the parts on my frame as well as measuring two friends rides that where identical to mine and called the distributor and they all confirmed that it was Mustang II geometry but with custom upper a arms, coil over mounts and stock size lower a arms but 5/8 narrower (keep in mind when referencing stock I mean in geometry only as no parts are factory Mustang) I also had the benifit of having a Superide in my garage to measure.
I saw you have updated your rear bars with double adjustable ends, though it makes it asier to adjust keep a close eye on the jamb nuts, the problem I have been told with this setup occurs when you twist a rear end like going over railroad tracks, the heim ends tends to unscrew very slightly and loosen the jambs making the bar loose and able to rotate, tha'ts the reason most street cars have only one adjustable end as there are no worries.
I hope all goes well, honestly. Please keep in mind that some of these guys really are only trying to help and are quite knowledgeable, I am no expert but have had quite a few builds, I have met Roger, great guy and very knowledgeable and Jerry's history speaks for itself, anytime guys like that speak its something to consider,constructive criticism is still constructive! if I can be of any help just holler! Best of luck Matthyj

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Dave,

Considering all the grief you've had with this front end, I'm glad something finally makes sense.

I'd be interested in seeing your math on up/down travel of the shock. I had a lot of trouble getting that right on my '34 because neither the upper nor lower shock mounts were adjustable.

Also, I assume that the shock will limit downward suspension travel. It would be a bad deal for the ball joint stud to do that.

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I think your starting to get it------


Don't limit the suspension travel with the shock travel-use snubbers or other limiters
when you have the suspension angles and movements mapped out and verified, you then do the upper shock mounting location to a distance that is a little less(so suspension doesn't bang out the shock-----and doesn't bottom on the lower during compression. Then whwn all that's freed up/non binding, no bump steer.etc-choose springs that will work with your numbers-------suggest looking at some of the variable rate springs

I'm not sure about this torque converter thing. Not to concerned about launch speed as I am about unloading the engine at a stop light.

Torque Converter Selection - Super Chevy Magazine

Originally Posted by hammer-time

I'm not sure about this torque converter thing. Not to concerned about launch speed as I am about unloading the engine at a stop light.

I believe that the 3400 recommendation by TCI is way overboard, but there's a lot to choosing a converter, including tire diameter, car weight, differential ratio, torque peak, etc. You might want to READ THIS ARTICLE

If I were you, I would call several other manufacturers such as Monster, B&M, Hughes, etc with your specs and see what they say.

Hughes says they would make a "special" torque converter for my application. A GM25MAX, this is a custom version of their GM25 Street Master torque converter. It is a 12” model that will provide approximately 2,400 – 2,600 RPM of max stall speed. They also stated that their standard GM25 torque converter would not likely allow my engine to idle in gear extremely well, and would only provide approximately 2,000 – 2,100 RPM of max stall speed even though it is rated at 2500 RPM.
I'm still waiting on other replies.
Thanks for all the help!

FWIW, Hughes is one of the best, if not the best, of the converter companies. They are more expensive, but most other companies will not design and build a custom unit to suit your needs.

Dave, every time I read your latest posting, I feed sad for you because I think about how much stuff that you have had to redo because of the original fabricator that didn't pay attention or didn't care. Just think if you had all this time and money back to use for finishing your car....you probably would be driving it by now! I would expect that a competent fabricator would have said "let me have the car back to make it right" but these guys have caused you so much grief......I know you have learned lots but you shouldn't have had to pay for all these lessons. I hope that others have read your experiences and can learn so they don't have to go thru the same thing. Best wishes on your build. Mike

robot, I do too, and understand completely, having gone through it myself. I did take mine back to the original fabricator. Unfortunately, transport both ways was on me, and his 'fixes' just made it worse. Where are Sherman, Peabody and the Wayback Machine when you need them?

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