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Thread: '37 Oze build
          
   
   

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  1. #436
    daveS53 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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  2. #437
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    Dave, what modification are you making to the top mount? Shortening it?
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  3. #438
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    Henry Rifle and jerry clayton like this.

  4. #439
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  5. #440
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  6. #441
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  7. #442
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    Dave, from my small dealing with annealing aluminum I have always understood use a acetelyne torch with a carboned flame (no oxygen) and blacken the aluminum to be annealed, then with a nice neutral flame heat the piece until the black burns off and your there, no oven needed. It may work or may not on your series and thickness no promises but if you really want to know how to do this or anything else with metal on your grill contact Ron Covell via email, he will answer you and the answer is a guarantee he is one of the best in the world, literally and a huge hot rod fan, his books are awesome and he is a true legend in metalworking. Matthyj
    Last edited by Matthyj; 08-14-2015 at 05:16 PM.
    40FordDeluxe and 36 sedan like this.
    Why is mine so big and yours so small, Chrysler FirePower

  8. #443
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  9. #444
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    You could zip off a narrow strip with a band saw, or whatever, and now you have a rod of matching alloy.
    rspears and 36 sedan like this.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  10. #445
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    Dave, I'm no expert and certainly not trying to critize. But, something looks off with your tig welds. May just be the camera angles, but to me it looks like the heat or sheilding gas needs adjusting. Maybe it's just moving to fast and not letting the puddle form completely. Again, no expert, but you may want to check before you put them in action. JMHO

  11. #446
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  12. #447
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    I still remember my welding instructor telling the class "practice, practice, practice, there are no excuses, just the lack of practice, practice, practice". That was 45 years ago and I remember it like yesterday.

    Again, not trying to criticize... But, 45 years ago it was not a good practice to keep going over welds to smooth them out and fill large gaps. Maybe things have changed, but back then we would have removed the part and starting over with a better fit and weld..

    Sorry, but welds especially in stress areas need to be as good as they look (stack of dimes), your life and possibly someone else's may depend on it. Might be time for a welding refresher course.. JMHO

  13. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by 36 sedan View Post
    I still remember my welding instructor telling the class "practice, practice, practice, there are no excuses, just the lack of practice, practice, practice". That was 45 years ago and I remember it like yesterday.

    Again, not trying to criticize... But, 45 years ago it was not a good practice to keep going over welds to smooth them out and fill large gaps. Maybe things have changed, but back then we would have removed the part and starting over with a better fit and weld..

    Sorry, but welds especially in stress areas need to be as good as they look (stack of dimes), your life and possibly someone else's may depend on it. Might be time for a welding refresher course.. JMHO
    What he said.
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  14. #449
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  15. #450
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    When you were the mechanical engineer overseeing nuclear or other jobs, if you came across welds showing signs of quality concerns you certainly would not of passed them. At the very least you would have them tested. If you say otherwise, we have bigger problems..

    For your own safety, please get a weld test performed. Most welding supply places can point you to where to get it done. They'll have you weld a few pieces together, then they'll break em apart measuring the penetration and strength of the weld, if there are problems with the welds you'll be able to see and correct them. If you feel the need to proff me wrong post the results of the test. Again, JMHO, it is better to be safe than sorry.
    rspears and Whiplash23T like this.

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