Thread: '37 Oze build

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Yes-a FLOOR MOUNT on a T350 will work fine---------






But a trans mount with some long hot roddie lever and a big skull head knob working on one of the MODERN transmissions is a DISASTER------------

I've got the long lever.. mounted on the trans, no silly skull(s) tho.. modern? it's an AOD, from last century, not sure if you'll consider that modern? But it was easy to install and works well, drive is locked in until you push the top button.

But I see it as all part of the build. You find / discover a problem and seek out ways to clear the hurdle, it's all part of the build right? Just make all these different parts from different manufacturers work together. It ain't always "off the shelf" bolt on even when it's supposed to be! AND Even if it is a "kit car"!

We don't all share the same opinion on all the topics concerning a hot rod build, but that's what keeps it interesting right?!?!

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Dave----you might want to take a look at putting the right side back where it was and changing the left side instead to correct wheel base--might help on the upper angles----

It may be the perspective of the photo, but to me it sure looks like on the upper A arm that left side (rear?) bushing is a lot more angled than the one to the right (front?). Are you sure that you don't have a problem with A-arm fabrication? It's most apparent in that third picture from the top, where the bushing on the left seems to be cocked relative to the A-arm tube (not aligned orthagonally) and to the other A-arm.

Upon further review I think I see what's wrong. You only moved the bottom A-arm back 1/2", so in order to align the spindle you have to have that huge mis-match on your upper adjusters which is cocking the bushings and will cause them to wear out quickly. Your upper & lower A-arms are installed on the frame as a set, not independently. If you moved the lower back 1/2" you need to move the upper mount back the same amount or you're going to have problems forever, seems to me.

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would reversing the upper arms side to side help any???

Or you could change the type of end. On my race cars, I only use rod ends. That way it doesn't matter if the upper control arm has a slight angle. The only downside is a little extra noise, but you hardly notice it. You can even put the seals on if you are worried about moisture and dust.

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OK---just to get it in here, the type of ends that you have on your upper arms are completely unacceptable for use the way you have them---they are only usable to keep the two bushing ends aligned perfectly and together adjusted to vary camber but in no way be used as yours are to set caster----like autotec said, if you use heim rod ends with the spherical bearings you can use them for a limited amount of adjustment, but heim ended a arms are noisy on street cars-----------

As I look at it they gave you a stack of four washers of varying thickness to adjust caster, and if a guy needed anything more than that he'd be trimming material off of the front of the welded tube and adding more washers/shims in back, allowing the upper arm to slide back for increased caster. The two threaded bushings are only for adjustment of camber, moving them in/out in exact equal amounts to vary your camber - you should have exactly the same amount of thread showing on both bushing bolts for a given wheel. Each front wheel is adjusted individually, without any tie to the other wheel (other than on paper), for caster and camber. The relative position of the two wheels, and the wheelbase, is determined by properly aligning the upper & lower A-arm mounts to the frame, to one another, and to the squared rear end mounts for the chassis to run straight and work smooth. If you've moved the lower A-arm it's almost certain that you need to move the upper an equal amount, unless they really bollixed up your whole IFS install. Just my $0.02, trying to put it in simple terms and cover all the details.

advice not needed

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Dave,
In the picture immediately above, the stack of washers that appears to be in excess of 1/2" in total height at the left end of the fixed upper mount is your caster adjustment. To adjust caster you pull the long bolt out of the A-arm, shift washers from the back side to the front side of the fixed pipe of the upper mount, shifting the entire A-arm forward by the thickness of the washer exchanged. If you don't have enough adjustment, either your upper A-arm mount is mis-placed on your frame, OR you will have to trim the FRONT of the fixed pipe and replace the amount you take out with an equal amount of washers. The total inside measurement of the fixed pipe portion plus the washers should be equal to the distance between the inside measurement of the upper A-arm bushings, snug fit, not tight. The threaded bushing rod ends are NOT for adjusting caster. They are for camber only, and are intended to be installed equal length. I suggest you call the guys at Ridetech if they made the IFS, and ask them.

Okkkkkkkkkkkk----are you ready for another alignment/suspension issue???????????


your wheels need more backspace to get the line drawn thru the upper and lower ball joint towards the center of the tire contact patch-----------


Or do you want me to get back to work on my own stuff?????????????