Thread: 39 Ford (Coast to Coast) Rebuild

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Yup, fairly common with aftermarket axles.... The O-ring will do a good job, just a light coat of grease before the install....

Good, glad to hear that. Seals coming out, axles and brakes going in today. Thanks for the advice, Justin

Justin I'm late coming into this thread, but what a good thread to write. Title should be buyer beware! I can offer little in the mechanics area, but have had lots of excellent service from Summit for overnight parts(normal cost) and Classic Performance kits and advice from them too! Both are very good with customer service. If you venture into exhaust area, Sanderson is top notch! Keep on posting, I'm learning a ton!

There are narrower retainer rings for the bearings that will clear the seals---


Just recently ran into same issue on a Moser 9 inch Ford setup(everything from them)


Also check for clearance around the axle bolt head on the back side of the axle flange to the retainer bolts of the bearing retainer flange to axle tube-------
Strange has some azle bolts with smaller heads that clear better------

Originally Posted by stovens

Justin I'm late coming into this thread, but what a good thread to write. Title should be buyer beware! I can offer little in the mechanics area, but have had lots of excellent service from Summit for overnight parts(normal cost) and Classic Performance kits and advice from them too! Both are very good with customer service. If you venture into exhaust area, Sanderson is top notch! Keep on posting, I'm learning a ton!

Not a problem, there will be tons more coming. I can't wait until I get to the engine, that's where I really shine.

One more question. On the rear brake kit, the calipers can face towards the front or the rear of the axle. Same with the parking brake bracket. It would work for me both ways and the images on the internet shows both ways. What way worked best for everybody?

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

There are narrower retainer rings for the bearings that will clear the seals---


Just recently ran into same issue on a Moser 9 inch Ford setup(everything from them)


Also check for clearance around the axle bolt head on the back side of the axle flange to the retainer bolts of the bearing retainer flange to axle tube-------
Strange has some azle bolts with smaller heads that clear better------

It's good to know someone else had this very issue. I thought about buying a different set of rings, but the seal is already damaged and the bearing stands a chance of getting damaged when I remove the rings that is on there now. If I do end up with a leak, I'll have to replace everything anyways. I'm going to chance it that the seals in the bearings don't leak. Fingers are crossed.

Well after drilling the rotors to fit the studs and running to the hardware store to get the correct hardware, the rear brakes are mocked up for measurement. Everything seems to fit good.

Brakes 1.jpg

Well after a bunch of research, I finally found what ball joint they put into the front control arms. It's a Moog K772 in case anybody in the future needs that info. The application is a late 70's Dodge Aspen upper ball joint. They used the same ball joint in the upper and lower control arm.

When I started dissassembling the front suspension, I was amazed how easy it came apart. I didn't need any tools! EVERYTHING was finger tight, even the ball joints. I knew there wasn't any cotter pins installed in any of the castle nuts, but I never imagined it was like this. After inspecting the tapers in the spindles, I reassembled everything and check all of the hardware on the front end. I should have guessed though since the jam nuts for the tie rods were backed off. Also I noticed the upper bushings on the sway bar links were missing. I guess they were just too hard to put on. Below are the pictures. Also, I'm trying to figure out whay they would weld the front sway bar bushing brackets to the frame. There is a bolt in the front and the rear holding the bracket on, but then they welded it too. Just strange.

sway bar 2.jpgtie rod.jpgsway bar 1.jpg

And this was built by a "top notch" big dollar shop??? Really???

And here are the new front brakes mocked up. I just need to measure and order new hoses now.

New front brakes.jpg

Today I removed the manual rack to start measuring for a power rack. Space is pretty limited down in that area, so this should be fun.

Justin

Originally Posted by 34_40

And this was built by a "top notch" big dollar shop??? Really???

Yes, pretty scary. I'm pretty sure when it was first built, it was a very nice build. But that was around 14 years ago. It's passed through 5 owners that I can track down, and every one of them added something new. I think it was during that time that these questionable repairs happened. I can't wait to remove the dash to find the PCM for the fuel injection to see what hides behind it. You can see some of the wiring mess for the front lights in the pictures above.

AHHhh.. that makes sense now.. some of those P.O.'s must've had a hand in this.

Remind me to make a play book of parts and part numbers as I build my truck, will make life easier down the line!

You've got a project for sure. If it has been thru 5 owners in 14years then it was poorly built to start and has gone downhill from there with 'improvements'. These shops put emphasis on 'curb appeal' and the mechanical issues will sort themselves out.
Good thing it is in your hands, i can tell you'll get it right.
Be careful about getting what you wish for removing the dash, i bet there'll be serious rigging behind there, out of sight. Have your camera ready when you do, ok?

Originally Posted by ojh

Have your camera ready when you do, ok?

I always do.

Stovens. I always do a spread sheet with lots of pictures. It helps add up all of the costs in the end, not that anyone likes to usually see them. LOL.

Still searching for the "right" accessory drive package. I've been in contact with 3 manufactures, but I'm starting to lose hope for a off the shelf kit. Maybe that's why whoever pieced this last kit together did what they did. My budget for the accessories is around 2K. (adding PS) The space is pretty tight, but shouldn't be impossible. Trying to find something that mounts the A/C and alt above the valve covers to clear the fenders. P/S can stay in the factory location. I'm just trying to keep from firing up the CNC for this should be simple solution. Back to measuring.

Justin