Thread: Oh no not another Willys Gasser build, this time a Willys shop truck

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Originally Posted by rspears

Even easier! Thanks! I'll have to order a can of gel coat before I jump into panel fabs.

You can also use a small foam roller which puts it on a treat.

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Originally Posted by roadster32

You can also use a small foam roller which puts it on a treat.

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Haven't used a roller before,,but it would work well on the larger flat areas.. I usually brush it on the smaller molds,,and spray it on the big molds,,and I am spraying the tooling gelcoat on the 29A roadster body that I am molding..mainly for a more even finish,,and it's a bad color for coverage with a brush..

Originally Posted by lamin8r

Haven't used a roller before,,but it would work well on the larger flat areas.. I usually brush it on the smaller molds,,and spray it on the big molds,,and I am spraying the tooling gelcoat on the 29A roadster body that I am molding..mainly for a more even finish,,and it's a bad color for coverage with a brush..

Hey Robin i've never sprayed it, what sort of size nozzle do you use ? Is it a regular spraygun ?

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Originally Posted by roadster32

Hey Robin i've never sprayed it, what sort of size nozzle do you use ? Is it a regular spraygun ?

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Steve,,I use a regular gravity fed gun,,with an orifice you can drop an egg through.. .The nozzle is a 3mm one..It gets the gelcoat out in a decent coat,without thinning it..Two light to medium passes,about three minutes apart,is all I do..It takes longer to clean the darn gun out afterwards..

A lot of good info here guys. Thanks for sharing it. I've always wanted to try the gel coat but haven't yet.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

A lot of good info here guys. Thanks for sharing it. I've always wanted to try the gel coat but haven't yet.

Try spraying it?? That's the easy part.. If you are doing a gelcoat repair,,or,,as I did once,,rebuild a 60's BSA fiberglass tank,,it's a slightly different kettle of fish...
It was a very dark red color,,and the owner wanted it to return to how it came out of the mold.. because of the darkness of the red,,it needed two applications,,with a fair bit of sanding between.. Then at the finish,,lots of wet sanding and polishing.. Finish was awesome though.. Real depth.. Sorry,,can't find the pic..

Hey Steve I'm working on a plywood bed for my 48 Ford F1. Where are you getting the stainless strips for this truck bed. The ones made for a planked bed are made to fit down in the groove between wood planks. Since the plywood is flat I was looking for something like you are using. Not sure if you're just fabbing some cut strips yourself, or have a simple source for these. Thanks.

Originally Posted by roadster32

Woo hoo yesterday was like summer had returned So got a chance to get the floor in the bed, I'm using a sheet of 3/4" WBP Plywood, i decided to put in a 1.25" x 16swg square box subframe to support the floor slightly higher as the kickup in the frame was a bit on the close side. The 16swg is nice and light but strong.
The subframe is bolted to the returns on the bottom of the sides, I didn't want to use rivnuts here so turned up some threaded bungs and welded them in to the tube and then sanded smooth.


















Next job was to cut the ply and drop into position, its held in temporarily with some button heads as run out of countersunk screws. I've ordered some ribbed rubber for the floor covering which will get glued down as I want it usable, In the last pic you can see marked out where I intend to put some polished stainless strips.







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A bit of progress made, its surprising but it took most of saturday to get the firewall filled in, its about 3/8" thick all over but the engine side still needs a few more layers yet, its certainly stiff & strong as I intend to hang a vintage heater from it.
The engine side still needs tidying up and smoothing out and looks like a patchwork quilt but its all looking pretty good. Just got to sort out a slight recess for the dizzy and it will be done, then i can start putting in some steelwork and hanging doors.
















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Originally Posted by stovens

Hey Steve I'm working on a plywood bed for my 48 Ford F1. Where are you getting the stainless strips for this truck bed. The ones made for a planked bed are made to fit down in the groove between wood planks. Since the plywood is flat I was looking for something like you are using. Not sure if you're just fabbing some cut strips yourself, or have a simple source for these. Thanks.

Steve I usually use a router and route grooves in the plywood half the thickness of the strips, the strips I will make in 1" x 1/4" stainless, I will also be covering the floor in thin ribbed rubber sheet.

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Looking good a job I don't envy. There are times I wish I could do that.

Originally Posted by cffisher

Looking good a job I don't envy. There are times I wish I could do that.

To be honest Charlie once you get the hang of how much resin to put on the mat its pretty much an easy process, to dry is weak and too much is weak, the key to success is to find that sweet spot and a few decent rollers.

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Thanks Steve.

Got a bit more done, these lighter evenings are a real bonus, firewall finished up now on the inside,








I started thinking about the master cylinder and pedal placement so decided to get it out of storage ready for a trial fit, opened the master cylinder box and spotted a small problem, I had set the brake bracket up with a 54 F100 cylinder but had ordered a 55 cylinder, I didn't even know they were different, the bores the same but the bolt hole configuration was way out, I thought about cutting a new bracket out but decided to make an adaptor from a piece of 1/2" aluminium plate, the pics explain it all.














Next I found a piece of stainless and turned up a pedal pad, found a piece of rubber in an old mat.










One thing that I didn't like was the horrible black plastic cap on the master cylinder so machined up a cover to glue over the plastic one, machined a slot for the plastic cap ears to fit snugly in and gave it a knurl on the outside and glued it in place.














The output of the cylinder was 1/2" unf and i'm trying to use brass brake fittings on this car, mainly because I like them, Couldn't find a fitting in brass so made one up on the lathe. I found a brass 90 - 1/8" npt to go into it but had to make a 3/8" tube nut, couldn't tap the 1/8" npt thread as someone borrowed my tap and havn't bought it back yet !!!








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Not much progress as had a few interuptins yesterday but now the firewall is in i started to put some steel framework in and mounted the door hinges.











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I just noticed that your going to use a single outlet master.. or is this not going on the road?

That wouldn't be allowed here in the state of Massachusetts with our new rules. For a street vehicle, it has to be a dual reservoir / dual discharge master cylinder.

Curious if it's the same "over there"?