Thread: Oh no not another Willys Gasser build, this time a Willys shop truck

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The door inners are now pretty much there now which left one last job before I start putting metal and windows in, the job was to put in a return to mount the whisker strips onto, this is one job I always do on a glass car as looking in the window opening there is nothing worse than seeing the door inards, it really spoils any nicely built car.
So around the opening was keyed up and I mixed up some chopped mat and resin, I call it strawberry but its also known as bridger, its basically small chopped fibreglass strands mixed in resin to form a paste, its very handy for certain jobs.








Next I started installing the window channel, to hold the channel I split a piece of 20mm x 1.6mm box in half which gave me 2 10mm deep channels, the felt window runner is a nice snug fit in this.












Next I cut some 5mm ply to shape as a window template and formed the felt channel around it.





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Thanks for posting this detail, Steve! Looking forward to the next installment.

Like Roger said, great details on this. I really like the idea of splitting that tube to hold the felt.

A bit more progress, started framing up.









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Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Like Roger said, great details on this. I really like the idea of splitting that tube to hold the felt.

I was gonna form it Ryan but I just looked at the box section on the bench and it seemed the obvious route to take.

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Originally Posted by sharpmark

pretty impressive build thread and your work looks first rate!
thanks


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Thanks Mark.

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Love it,Steve.. Looking good.. Gotta admit,,I never thought about using a 20mm box for that job..I have used a 20,or 25x 12mm ( I think),with one side cut off for a snug fitting window channel though.. The glass dropped into well..

Bit more done to bore you all

I usually like manual window winders in an old car but as I didn't have any VW winding mechanisms in stock I decided to use some electric units I stock, I guess as I sell and endorse these kits I really should use them as well !!!

First job was to modify the top mount as it wasn't how I wanted it, Chopped it off and welded my version on.








I modified the bottom mount to my liking also, all the holes are drilled 1/4" while I set it all up then I drill out to 3/8" to allow a bit of adjustment in all directions.










I also fixed a steady for the motor








Heres the mechanism in place, Its really a great little kit that works great, comes with switches & wiring harness but I won't be using them as I don't want the look of modern switches.








This is a shot of the clamping system, A great idea that works








The top limit relies on the bracket I cut off so I spun up a buffer in the lathe for the end of the travel. also clipped up the exhaust tube.










Heres what i'm using in place of the modern rocker switches, they use micro switches for up & down action, i'm using 34 ford winder handles, modern windows with an old look.












Here the switches are mounted in simple brackets.










Next job was to bond in the window channel, using Polyeurathe Adhesieve Sealant, sticks anything like shit to a blanket !!!










I found these door actuators on my shelf and they are just the right length and will take the 34 ford handles perfectly. Locks are some slim bearjaw locks I had kicking around.







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Very very nice work there Steve and you have made me rethink the way I am building the doors for the Bucket re frame wise, and I don't have windows to worry about. Thanks so much for taking the time to not only photograph what you are doing but your easy to understand explainations is so helpful, it is brilliant.

Had to knock off a bit earlier today as we have friends coming but I did get the windows all going up & down nice & smoothly
Also I knew space was tight for the bearjaw locks so had to form a slight bulge in the door jam to accommodate them, it will also make life easy for prospective customers as its a standard lock I keep in stock.

Hers a few pics and a short video







Video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iV4EUvylKj4


Heres the whisker trim and where it will fit








Here the lock position and the bulge I formed, all done with a bit of shaped wood and masking tape











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Originally Posted by Whiplash23T

Very very nice work there Steve and you have made me rethink the way I am building the doors for the Bucket re frame wise, and I don't have windows to worry about. Thanks so much for taking the time to not only photograph what you are doing but your easy to understand explainations is so helpful, it is brilliant.

I'm glad it helped you Whip, makes it all worthwhile

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I got the lock in last night, space was pretty tight. I also got the handle actuator sorted also











There is a plate that ties the lock into the frame which the nuts are welded to, forgot take a pic.














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More progress, nearly there. I splashed some black epoxy on the inner last night to tidy it up and just fitted it up after tea, next job is to fit the striker on the door jamb and mount the outer door skin & outer handle.
Someone mentioned the raised door lock, they suggested it might catch the door jamb when opened It won't because its only raised 5/16" and the jamb has 1/2" of clearance

Hopefully tomorrow night the tinted acrylic will be here so I can fit the proper window











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I can now get on with the next job fitting the outer handles as the Willys repro handles I ordered turned up today, They are specially made for glass bodys as the original Willys handle fits with a clip arrangement that doesn't work on glass bodys. Also my tinted acrylic showed up so need to cut that to shape also.







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Last night saw the handles fitted, they operate stainless steel bicycle cables.

First thing to sort was the handle pad on the doors, the doors have the 1940 round pad but the handles are only available 41 shape so I had to build up the pad with GRP chopped paste.












Next I prepped the inside for the strengthening plate I had planned, I personally wouldn't fit the handle without a plate behind. The plate is 16swg aluminium, I spun up a piece to hold the outer cable and a bit more 1/8" plate for a riser, I did it aluminium for no other reason other than I don't weld much aluminium and fancied a change.












Next I needed a actuating lever to fit the 5/16" square bar on the handle, this was made in a bit of 3/8" plate and is secured to the square by a grubscrew.










Here its all assembled and glassed into place. I bonded in a couple of bits of aluminium tube for the cable to run through so it don't rub against the window.









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