Thread: Oh no not another Willys Gasser build, this time a Willys shop truck

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Originally Posted by roadster32

Thats how willys are mate.

Steve,
Like I said, I totally misinterpreted how your filler panel was going to be done, and was visualizing an extension of the hood side to fill the gap vs a body panel to mate up with the hood edge, but that wouldn't allow the hood to swing, so it was a "DUH" moment for me, an I apologize for the interruption. I totally enjoy your innovative approach, and appreciate that you take time to show us your steps.

Cheers Steve you've accomplished what Willy's should have done in the first place. Your version is stellar compared to theirs!
Maybe this mind the gap is better?

Steve,never get tired of works of art.

Jack.

Originally Posted by rspears

Steve,
Like I said, I totally misinterpreted how your filler panel was going to be done, and was visualizing an extension of the hood side to fill the gap vs a body panel to mate up with the hood edge, but that wouldn't allow the hood to swing, so it was a "DUH" moment for me, an I apologize for the interruption. I totally enjoy your innovative approach, and appreciate that you take time to show us your steps.

No problem Roger, asking questions is good, its how we all learn stuff

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Originally Posted by stovens

Cheers Steve you've accomplished what Willy's should have done in the first place. Your version is stellar compared to theirs!
Maybe this mind the gap is better?

Steve funnily enough I find that more appealing

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Watch out for that sand.

Great work on that filler piece. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who has half the parts for his project he's working on, in that project at the same time. Have to love trucks!!!

Well now I had the rear fender mounts sorted it was time for the front mounts, wanted to keep it simple so first a piece of 3/4" x 1/16" wall box was cut to fit between the front fender/front panel joint,next a pair of curved 1/8" plates were cut out to follow the curve of the joint, these are held in place by the lower 2 fender bolts each side. 2 mounting plates were welded on to align with the frame horns, this was tacked on the car with a mig and then tigged in the workshop, a couple of gussets were added to make it all light but strong, I sat on the fender and jumped around a bit and they never moved so happy with that.
















The above took up most of the day to complete but I also got time to make a stainless hood prop, The bit of wood I had been using was starting to be annoying so had to go. again nice and simple, a piece of 3/8" stainless box was fitted with tabs and bolted through the hood stiffeners, then a hole was drilled in the front panel, the hole also acts as a drain as the water collects there.









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Steve, until this and your coupe thread I had no Idea how much work went into building a glass body. Do all glass bodys need this much re-work or is this unique to Willys?


Jack.

Originally Posted by Jack F

Steve, until this and your coupe thread I had no Idea how much work went into building a glass body. Do all glass bodys need this much re-work or is this unique to Willys?


Jack.

Not always Jack, the Willys because of the shape suffers more than most, glass when left and not stored level & straight can move about with temp, If they are made with a floor (like a 32 say) it makes them more stable.

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One of the best parts of your build threads is showing everyone how to approach these fixes. Prior to reading your's a and a couple other build threads, I would of never know where to start or what to do. This will pay off in droves should I ever tackle a glass build, and with my own glass replacement parts on my truck. Thanks again for taking the time Steve for posting these steps. I know you do it for your customers as well, but we sure appreciate it.

Originally Posted by stovens

One of the best parts of your build threads is showing everyone how to approach these fixes. Prior to reading your's a and a couple other build threads, I would of never know where to start or what to do. This will pay off in droves should I ever tackle a glass build, and with my own glass replacement parts on my truck. Thanks again for taking the time Steve for posting these steps. I know you do it for your customers as well, but we sure appreciate it.

Not a problem Steve, i'm a hotrodder so more than happy to help others, makes for a better hobby all round I reckon.

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Steve I notice you use large diameter flat washers when bolting directly to glass. I am guessing this is to put the pressure over a larger area of the fiberglass to prevent cracking the glass? I have running boards for my pickup that are made from fiberglass and I have been wondering one how tight to bolt them on, and 2 if the use of a washer will be necessary on the top side of the running board where the carraige style bolts go through? These are thick glass boards made by Bebops Glassworks for my truck. Thanks. Steve.

Originally Posted by stovens

Stev I notice you use large diameter flat washers when bolting directly to glass. I am guessing this is to put the pressure over a larger area of the fiberglass to prevent cracking the glass? I have running boards for my pickup that are made from fiberglass and I have been wondering one how tight to bolt them on, and 2 if the use of a washer will be necessary on the top side of the running board where the carraige style bolts go through? These are thick glass boards made by Bebops Glassworks for my truck. Thanks. Steve.

Steve it's always wise to spread the load but the carriage bolts will be fine, I do them up pretty tight but always use a spring washer.

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Thanks Steve, good to know!