Thread: Un-streetrodding a 34 tudor

Tweet

Jim, you got the overall shape of the bracket pretty close to the pic I sent you (saw your clear plexi mock up), but that one was almost twice as thick for material (using my calibrated eyeball). It didn't flex. With the thickness of the bracket you made it probably would benefit from additional support/triangulation, particularly with those long spacers from the block necessary to accommodate the pump spacers.

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Jim, you got the overall shape of the bracket pretty close to the pic I sent you (saw your clear plexi mock up), but that one was almost twice as thick for material (using my calibrated eyeball). It didn't flex. With the thickness of the bracket you made it probably would benefit from additional support/triangulation, particularly with those long spacers from the block necessary to accommodate the pump spacers.

Bob how thick was your bracket? Mine is 1/4" thick. Don't get me wrong I could definitely bend and or break it if I wanted too but I pushed against it pretty good and at 5-10 and damn near 400 pounds it didn't move. I honestly don't think I have to have the belt quite that tight. Again I'm no engineer so I could be wrong. With the amount of time it took me to make this bracket I'd hate to have to make a second one. I don't have a CNC mill or even a rotary table. That bracket was all made by hand. I drilled holes all around the basic shape then used a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a 120 grit flap wheel to get it close then Filed it to perfection (or as close as I dare come) then sand paper 120 all the way down to 1500 then simichrome polish. Like most things on my car; they look like purchased items till you really look at them and realize "Hey powermaster didn't make a polished aluminum bracket like that". I know...but I did.

Jim, you may be just fine with it as is and should give it a go, but once all that stuff starts spinnin' you may notice a bit of "wobbling" or small vibration at operating rpm. Those longish spacers are probably your weakest link. My bracket was something like 1/2", don't have the actual recorded anywhere I could find it. If you do end up with some slight movement a triangulating bracket might be the solution (say back to a pan bolt or that front exhaust bolt, can't really tell best alignment from the pic).

Jim-the differance between that orange alt mount and yours is the orange one has the mounting point of the alternator sandwiched between two pieces of mount-yours only uses one--------and the orange one 's arm is the adjusting for belt tension only

The point where your set up will fail is it'll break off the 2 3/8 bolts that mount it to the block at the threads where it enters block-Every thing you change revs on the engine or wind it uo-change gears, etc you will have a changing force factor on that mounting point-when it fails-----I hope your making an extra fan shroud and getting a spare radiator because your probably going to need it---------If the alternator don't fall down and block your steering

Sound bad????????? well think about it a little

Wow you're quite the optimist aren't you.

As someone studying engineering, that bracket looks vulnerable. My first thought was some 1/16" material (matching alloy) wrapped perpendicular to the circumference to give the part a too and bottom rib, would stiffen it measurably. However, the gentleman's comment about bolt stress load could be valid nonetheless.

Can you move it to the other side?? Then it would not suffer from the total pull on the belt under load--------Did you move it that far out to line up with the extended pump pulley? You could drive it just off the crank with a shorter more stock size pulley. If you make another piece that is same as your lower 3 bolt holes (2 block and one alt bolt) and put it against the block, maybe do a solid piece of alum for spacer of all three bolts with the one for the alternater being tapped woud strenfthen the set up a lot-

Also-if you use a double pulley and two belts you won't need as much belt tension so you would lower the load on the mount bolts shear point at the block--the mount would be transformed more into a roll of being an alternator mount versas a belt tensioner for water pump and fan

For your viewing pleasure;

Very nice! Like that blue too sort of like Acapulco Blue on the 60's Mustangs

Thanks! It is actually a Ford color called Washington blue.

Looking it up on google and found this Ford! Nice looking car and color

Jim, that is looking great! Ot looks like he'll have it done before that white stuff starts setting in?

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Jim, that is looking great! Ot looks like he'll have it done before that white stuff starts setting in?

Thanks Ryan. That's the plan anyway. I'm not sure if he is gonna shoot the whole car or just jam it out. I know the body once it goes on will not be coming off again (in my lifetime hopefully) so he has to do the whole bottom edge and the firewall including the wheel wells and where the gas tank meets the body. I feel like a teenage boy that just got his first piece of ass...LOL I can't imagine how good it's gonna feel the first time I drive it!

Well almost 9 hours at the DMV and over $600 lighter in my wallet and both Hot Rods are registered!!! WOO HOO!! Now there's an incentive to GET-R-DONE if I ever had one.

Here it would be a scheduled appt. 1 month from today, and they'd hit you with 20 nusance fees, to where registering it cost more that the car did when new(in the case of my 48' Ford F1) I pointed out to the counter person that they had charged more fees than the cost of the truck!)