Thread: Un-streetrodding a 34 tudor
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06-30-2015 12:25 PM #106
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- Location
- Prairie City
- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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Nice work! I really like the V'band idea. Less complicated than 3 bolt flanges, and less leaks. I think you have plenty of clearance too.Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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06-30-2015 04:20 PM #107
My lowest point is some 4.5" and I just touch on some speed bumps and rarely a driveway. So if it stays at 5" you should be good I'd think.
Interesting ideas with the exhaust. I'd be curious later on if you deem all the work worth it.
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06-30-2015 10:22 PM #108
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06-30-2015 10:36 PM #109
Yeah there is that nasty "Spring settling" thing to contend with. Who knows I may end up an inch lower than yours. That would suck! Especially in CT AKA the pot hole capital of the world. From a cost perspective it is defiantly worth it but it is very time consuming and frustrating (first exhaust) but I think in the end it will be well worth it. It will be "Exactly" like I want it and if it's messed up; I messed it up. It will also be more gratifying being able to say I did it and it's not too bad for my first time. How many people can say they scratch built an entire exhaust system for their hot rod? I mean besides the guy's that put lakester headers, zoomies, or side pipes on their rides. To me that's chickening out...LOL
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07-01-2015 08:04 AM #110
well sometimes the more visable something is, the more work it takes-I think the easy way out is to use those short lakester headers with those difussers
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07-01-2015 05:36 PM #111
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07-01-2015 07:03 PM #112
For future reference on exhaust systems for 32-34 Fords------those cars with triangulated 4 bar rears and coil overs--------use a cat back system for the Mustangs from 20000-o4? tail pipes fit up over the rear and pipes fit under frame rails at outside of fuel tank------- I'll try to remember to look up some reference part numbers
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07-01-2015 11:26 PM #113
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07-05-2015 10:43 PM #114
Wow I got lots done this weekend. I finished up the body work on the floor, cut the holes for the shifter & master cylinder, and got the passenger side exhaust just about all done (just needs hangers). Okay, so.....the wife was right. There I said it! Well she's kinda right. I ended up doing a bunch of research on running the exhaust under the rear end and it turns out a lot of people do it this way especially cars with triangulated 4 bar rear suspension like I have. So with the rear suspension at full droop I gave myself about 2" clearance under the rear axle tubes and 2" under the gas tank. leaving me 10" clearance from the bottom of the tail pipe to the ground. But I still tucked the muffler up into the frame. I have a coupling on the tail pipe so it is easily removed if I ever have to drop the rear. Now the real trick will be to get the other side to match. So technically I didn't run it straight (flat) out the back... I'm covering the bottom with bed liner so it doesn't have to be perfect because lord knows I'm no body man.
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07-06-2015 04:19 PM #115
Yep, that's just about how I did mine! Works well.
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07-15-2015 12:55 AM #116
The floor is done. I did it with liquid bed liner. I was going to use undercoating but I didn't think it would be durable enough. I used the rustoleum 2 part epoxy. Cool stuff and it dries hard not rubbery. The only down side is it has sand in it so when I put it back on the frame it wont slide on the cloth webbing. I think I have that figured out though. I'm going to put long set screws in the mounting holes and place the body on like locating pins.
Then we flipped her over and started to work on the firewall. The after shots of the firewall do it more justice than it deserves. I really suck at bodywork. I shot it with some primer so I can see where I need to do more work (basically everywhere). Did I mention I suck at bodywork? I'm getting it roughed in for my buddy Bob who will be doing the final bodywork. I'll be glad when this part of the job is done (itching like crazy) damn fiberglass!! I also played a bit with the exhaust tips. Not quite sure how far they will stick out (all these decisions to make).
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07-15-2015 07:43 AM #117
Good choice on the bed liner instead of undercoat. Ask me how I know . . .Jack
Gone to Texas
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07-15-2015 10:04 AM #118
Nice work" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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07-15-2015 11:06 AM #119
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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07-19-2015 09:36 PM #120
Besides the hangers the exhaust is done! Is it perfect? No. But it didn't cost me a boat load of money either. Before anyone points out the mufflers aren't equal distances from the drive shaft; I would like to point out this was done intentionally because I didn't like how close the muffler was to the brake switch and frankly I still don't but it is far enough that I could put a heat shield there or as suggested by my buddy Bob I could just move the switch. He also thinks I over engineer everything and it will be fine the way it is. I also built some legs for her to stand on and she is off to bodywork. Work your magic Bob!
Merry Christmas ya'll
Merry Christmas