Thread: Followed Me Home II

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Didn't get a lot done today, but did get some double side tape to mount the rubber cowl/hood and grille/hood half round seals. Also mounted the windshield, with its "barn find" dirt in place, and drilled/tapped/welded a ground buss behind the dash. Picked up a 1/2npt plug for the bottom radiator tank. I'd never thought of putting my temp sending unit there, but that's what PRC says it's for! Anyway, I think it's ready for coolant now.
Baby steps....
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Originally Posted by rspears

Picked up a 1/2npt plug for the bottom radiator tank. I'd never thought of putting my temp sending unit there, but that's what PRC says it's for! Anyway, I think it's ready for coolant now.

What? they want you to measure the coolest part of the system? I've never heard of such a thing.

JMHO, I believe they mean it is for the electric fan temperature switch.

Originally Posted by 34_40

What? they want you to measure the coolest part of the system? I've never heard of such a thing.

Originally Posted by 36 sedan

JMHO, I believe they mean it is for the electric fan temperature switch.

Bob, you're likely right but like Mike it surprised me. I initially thought it was for an anode, but decided a brass plug would be just fine!

Or a Reverse Flow system.?.?

Originally Posted by 34_40

Or a Reverse Flow system.?.?

I expect 36sedan's right, as he generally is! My SPAL controller on the coupe has it's own sensor, and I chose to mount it in an intake port closest to the head, the hottest spot I thought, and then program accordingly. On an older manifold there might be only one port for coolant, so having one in the radiator would be perfect!

I don't disagree. I'd have me a gauge hooked up to it for sure... just because! In my coupe I have the AOD tranny test psi port connected to a psi gauge in the cab. I used it to tune the throttle valve to carb linkage. I found it to be helpful so I left it in place. It drives my friend Mark crazy as it is always running up and down depending where your foot is on the gas pedal. LOL He just can't understand how it operates even tho' I've explained it over and over. I'd be curious to see the temp coming off the motor and after the radiator. again.. just because.

Ready for coolant, The list is getting smaller!

Yeah, as I headed to the barn I thought maybe I'd dump in as much coolant as I could get it to take without starting the engine, and maybe fill & bleed the brakes. Got out there, looking at wires and wondered why there wasn't anything on the fuse block point labeled "Gauges"? Sorted through, looking at their overall wiring diagram and saw that it was a pink wire "12V Ignition Power" and found it triple lugged on the Ignition Switch. Yeah, it would work but the gauges wouldn't be fused.... Fixed that, then started putting covers on wiring on/around the engine to look prettier. Wired the horn - easy but needed a hole through the floor and gotta find a piece of green insulated wire to match - lacquer thinner takes off the wire ID info that American AutoWire uses, so score! Ran the electric choke power wire in and used a spare fused point for it, too.
The tranny linkage had made me wonder a bit when I put on the NSS, so I unhooked it and sure enough the lever on the trans had 3 more detents forward (1-2-3, then D, then OD). Found that the little heim joint rod end was catching on the tranny. Easy fix, taking off the actuating lever on the shifter, whanging it a couple of times then using the vice to flatten a bend, but it all takes time. Back together I've got all positions now, and the NSS is right too! Decided it would be best to have a radiator cap before dumping coolant instead of yellow painters tape. O'Reilly's has one - tomorrow....

Your quick a minute projects sound just like mine, lol

Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5

Your quick a minute projects sound just like mine, lol

Yeah, the minutes become hours!

Another of those kind of days today. Changed out the hard line connections for tranny coolant to 3/8" barbed tube and got them plumbed. Learned that it's best to measure close for the rated rubber hose at nearly $4 a foot! At least I could use a piece of the left over for my crankcase breather to carb hose!

Plug wires - why don't they make wires with the HEI end straight instead of 90! With #1 and #2 adjacent and needing to cross, and #3 and #6 adjacent and needing to cross, and with an air cleaner and firewall that leave almost zero room it's a PITB! If the wires came straight up it would be so, so much easier! Just like the old female cap connectors, wires straight up!

Originally Posted by rspears

Yeah, the minutes become hours!

Another of those kind of days today. Changed out the hard line connections for tranny coolant to 3/8" barbed tube and got them plumbed. Learned that it's best to measure close for the rated rubber hose at nearly $4 a foot! At least I could use a piece of the left over for my crankcase breather to carb hose!

Plug wires - why don't they make wires with the HEI end straight instead of 90! With #1 and #2 adjacent and needing to cross, and #3 and #6 adjacent and needing to cross, and with an air cleaner and firewall that leave almost zero room it's a PITB! If the wires came straight up it would be so, so much easier! Just like the old female cap connectors, wires straight up!

It's called PROGRESS Roger.
We old farts are too set in our ways to understand it.
Next thing ya know there will be little boxes on which you press a button and it will take pictures.
Or someone will devise a way to shift the privy to inside the house.

Originally Posted by johnboy

Next thing ya know there will be little boxes on which you press a button and it will take pictures.
Or someone will devise a way to shift the privy to inside the house.

A box that takes pictures and a privy in the house? REALLY, can you imagine how big that box would be and how the house would smell.... I believe you've been watching a little too much SciFi.

Love this thread - Here's a random suggestion to all reading:

Always pressurize the cooling system dry before adding coolant. Presurize to 15psi and let it sit overnight. If it's still at 15psi in the morning, you're good to go - if not, find out why or you'll have a right fine mess all over the place when the engine comes up to temp.

Ask me how I know this....

Glenn, I've never had the need to invest in a cooling system pressure tester! I guess the leaks have always been glaringly obvious in my past - split hoses, blown gaskets, etc. It's a great idea, and I may see if the O'Reilly's has a loner kit!

I decided to pull my plugs and verify my #1 position on the distributor, and decided that it made sense to run the front pair of wires over the top, and the rear pair down and in. The block hugger headers can be a challenge, and i'm not too concerned about what the Peanut Gallery thinks.

Decided to get my Juliano lap belts bolted in, and quickly saw how much smaller the '32 interior area is compared to a '33/34. I ended up using a body mount bolt into the frame for the outers, and coupled the inners to one point. It'll work.
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Today the temperature was up so I decided to shoot the headlights, which had somehow remained in their boxes hiding away when everything else was being painted. Jim Robinson had mentioned that he used a Harbor Freight Detail Gun, and provided me a reference so I picked one up to try.

I couldn't see clearing out the spray booth area for a pair of headlights, so I tarped the body and set the lights on a sawhorse near the door opening.
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One coat of color....
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4th coat of clear at 7:15pm, temperature dropping....
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Yesterday I pulled the plugs and verified my #1 point on the distributor, and routed the wires with the two fronts dropping in from above, the two rears coming up from below. The block huggers make it hard to do everything the same, and it's not a big deal to me. Gotta pick up some wire loom/separators for the wires, and see how it looks. Baby steps.