Thread: Followed Me Home II

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Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Cool caps. I'd like one for the wall, between the Indian exhaust and the mustang "corral "

Check eBay.

Hey! Those toe boards look just like mine! Did you sneak in my shop and steal them..??!!.. Oh.., mine are still here... never mind.. LOL!

Seriously, those look just like you used mine for a pattern, but you're several hundred miles away. You have a good eye for size and dimensions. An acquaintance of mine used to call that "calibrated eyeball". I like that term. Anyway, since I made mine (about 15 years ago) I have used them many times on my cars and friend's and a couple of them have made sets of their own. On a beam axle like my '31 and '32 and the roadster I sold a while back, I set the caster with a bubble protractor and the toe with these boards. I never have to pay for an alignment.

Oh yeah, the orange tape in my picture was just masking tape holding the boards up against the tires. Otherwise, they would fall over if I tugged on the measuring tapes.

Originally Posted by rspears

My quick morning Costco run ended up having a 5X multiplier when a truck picked up something from the highway and flung it back to my windshield on the F150. Whatever it was contacted in two places 1/4" from the edge and I immediately had two cracks a foot or more plus two or three smaller. Automatic replacement, no questions, $600.
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Crikey. That'd make you spit wouldn't it?

Or rip your hat off and jump on it.

Three times.

I'm glad they decided to do a commemorative edition... not as "flashy" as I would've thought but.. it's cool.

Shame about the new glass.. but they'll make it right and that's what matters!

Originally Posted by J. Robinson

Hey! Those toe boards look just like mine! Did you sneak in my shop and steal them..??!!.. Oh.., mine are still here... never mind.. LOL!

Seriously, those look just like you used mine for a pattern, but you're several hundred miles away. You have a good eye for size and dimensions. An acquaintance of mine used to call that "calibrated eyeball". I like that term. Anyway, since I made mine (about 15 years ago) I have used them many times on my cars and friend's and a couple of them have made sets of their own. On a beam axle like my '31 and '32 and the roadster I sold a while back, I set the caster with a bubble protractor and the toe with these boards. I never have to pay for an alignment.

Oh yeah, the orange tape in my picture was just masking tape holding the boards up against the tires. Otherwise, they would fall over if I tugged on the measuring tapes.

LOL they say imitation is the most sincere form of flattery! I just happened to have a 2x2 piece of veneer grade ply that had solid core sub-plys, and my front wheels measured 24" so it was meant to be! I had a drafting instructor that taught us to draw without scales for measuring, using a folded piece of paper and proportion marks, so my "calibrated eyeball" has served me well through the years. Thanks again!

Originally Posted by johnboy

Crikey. That'd make you spit wouldn't it?

Or rip your hat off and jump on it.

Three times.

No hat, and five lanes of traffic moving 65mph so all I could do after the initial scare of the hit was yell out a minor oath and slap the steering wheel a couple of times! What compounded the frustration was that I was glancing at my passenger side mirror to see if I could change lanes and get away from the truck when it hit

Originally Posted by 34_40

I'm glad they decided to do a commemorative edition... not as "flashy" as I would've thought but.. it's cool.

They issued them early 2015, after my free wheels had already arrived, and when the Cragar guy told me the plan for them I asked if he had a set of 4 earmarked to send for my "commemorative wheels" but it didn't fly. I was really kind of surprised to see them pop up at Performance Tire & Wheel in California after 6 years, thinking I'd probably be looking at aftermarket eBay. LOL they're probably happy to see them moving off of their shelf!!

I've been working on interior panels for the roadster, and found that I needed to address the floor before getting too far. Following a suggestion from Jim Robinson I looked at bubble foil insulation for HVAC ducting and it's a great product! Using 3M spray adhesive to secure it to the floor.
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Tomorrow I'll be drilling for trim clips, and getting panels in place.

Originally Posted by rspears

I've been working on interior panels for the roadster, and found that I needed to address the floor before getting too far. Following a suggestion from Jim Robinson I looked at bubble foil insulation for HVAC ducting and it's a great product! Using 3M spray adhesive to secure it to the floor.
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Tomorrow I'll be drilling for trim clips, and getting panels in place.

That bubble foil is good stuff. We get 'Home Chef" meals delivered once a week and they come wrapped in two sheets of the stuff. I have piles of it now, enough to do the floors roof and both doors of the Express. lol.

Back at it today, and decided on a different tack on the corner problem. I'd cut one piece putting the grooves to the inside and wasn't happy with it, and had just about decided to buy a couple of pieces of aluminum sheet stock that I could form, but I decided to try putting the grooves on the outside of the curve and I liked the result better. I needed a 90 corner at the bottom, fanning to a curve at the top matching the body. After a bit of finagling I used a 1.75" bottom, 1.25" flat at the top, and 7.5" of curve.
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Took the fence off of the radial arm saw to give me more length for the cut, set the blade ~3/32" above the table and cut the grooves. I'd drawn the corner curve on a piece of matt board stock, transferred that to a piece of 2x6 stock and used the inside curve to form the corner.
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After tacking the piece to the upper corner and a small 90 block at the bottom I flooded the grooves with resin, added a layer of cloth and slopped on more resin and let it dry.
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As Gomer used to say, "Surprise, Surprise, Surprise!" It seemed to work!
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Not sure yet, but I may add a 1" strip of plywood to my corner piece to overlay the back panel and cover any gap, or I may just leave it alone and let the foam & material hide the gap.
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All in all, I'm happy with the corners. Got the other side cut & glassed. Tomorrow I'll trim it to fit, then drill both corners & the body for clips, then get the door panels mounted to line up. As jb likes to say, another duck in the row!
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Hey that works pretty slick! Good idea! Looks nice too. Can you do the same technique to the curved piece in the other (horizontal)
plane so it can bend and blend the 2 pieces together?

Originally Posted by 34_40

Hey that works pretty slick! Good idea! Looks nice too. Can you do the same technique to the curved piece in the other (horizontal)
plane so it can bend and blend the 2 pieces together?

The problem is if I cut the corners in the horizontal the top stays fixed but the bottom, below the grooves has to get longer. Easier to use a bit of bondo or a piece of ply on the low side, then sand to make a ramp but I'm thinking the gap will disappear with some creative application of foam beneath the vinyl. It's behind the seats, anyway so likely a "Who Cares?" point. I'll leave it for now and talk to the stitcher, unless I'm the stitcher......

Originally Posted by rspears

Back at it today, and decided on a different tack on the corner problem. I'd cut one piece putting the grooves to the inside and wasn't happy with it, and had just about decided to buy a couple of pieces of aluminum sheet stock that I could form, but I decided to try putting the grooves on the outside of the curve and I liked the result better. I needed a 90 corner at the bottom, fanning to a curve at the top matching the body. After a bit of finagling I used a 1.75" bottom, 1.25" flat at the top, and 7.5" of curve.
-
Took the fence off of the radial arm saw to give me more length for the cut, set the blade ~3/32" above the table and cut the grooves. I'd drawn the corner curve on a piece of matt board stock, transferred that to a piece of 2x6 stock and used the inside curve to form the corner.
-
After tacking the piece to the upper corner and a small 90 block at the bottom I flooded the grooves with resin, added a layer of cloth and slopped on more resin and let it dry.
-
As Gomer used to say, "Surprise, Surprise, Surprise!" It seemed to work!
-
Not sure yet, but I may add a 1" strip of plywood to my corner piece to overlay the back panel and cover any gap, or I may just leave it alone and let the foam & material hide the gap.
-
All in all, I'm happy with the corners. Got the other side cut & glassed. Tomorrow I'll trim it to fit, then drill both corners & the body for clips, then get the door panels mounted to line up. As jb likes to say, another duck in the row!
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That's bloody clever.
I like your style.

You should shout yourself a nice cold beer to celebrate.

Nicely done............

Well done, Roger. The result speaks for itself. I would not worry about the gap you have as it is minor, and the foam will more than compensate for it once the upholstery goes in.

Originally Posted by rumrumm

Well done, Roger. The result speaks for itself. I would not worry about the gap you have as it is minor, and the foam will more than compensate for it once the upholstery goes in.

Thanks for all the kind words, and Lynn your comment made me think that I need to cut back that joint line to allow room for the interior material to wrap to the back. The foam stops at the edge, but the material wraps, and I too think the foam will compensate.

Originally Posted by rspears

Thanks for all the kind words, and Lynn your comment made me think that I need to cut back that joint line to allow room for the interior material to wrap to the back. The foam stops at the edge, but the material wraps, and I too think the foam will compensate.

I was later thinking that perhaps a shim behind the wood to hold the panel further in and get the difference to be less would be easiest perhaps.?.?