I don't think I ever posted a picture of the roadster with the freebie Cragar's mounted. I haven't put the dog-dish caps on the steelies yet, but I REALLY like these Cragar wheels, and I especially like the larger wheel in back compared to the 15's I have on the '33. It's gonna be neat to be able to swap them around as I want, but at this point the Cragar's are my favorite.

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I've been plugging away on some things that I need to get mounted on the body before pulling it for what I hope is the last time. I'd made some 1/8" anchor plates with seat mounting bolts spot welded to them, and got three of the four glued in place on the bottom side of the floor. I tied the two outside seat bolts together front to rear along the frame rail, then did plates side to side tying the drivers to passenger front bolts together, and another for the two driver & passenger seat rear bolts. For the seat to pull free from the body it's going to pull big chunks of the core mat floor out. I still need to get some seat belts ordered, but I think I've figured out a way to mount the high lap belt anchor point that won't look too funky. Still need to play with that a bit before I spend money on belts & retractors.

I got the driveshaft made at Inland last week, and getting it in place showed that the floor mounted e-brake was sitting too low. Reworked that, and then started looking at the transmission to pinion setup. Long story short, I had assumed that the motor mounts and tranny mount were set up right by Pete & Jakes, but that's not the case. It's embarrassing to admit, but when I dropped the engine & tanny in place the car was sitting on the section of the shop floor that's sloped for drainage to the roll up doors, tail back so the carb flange was pretty much dead level - too close to worry about tweaking. In the months since then the car has just about always been up on the dolly plates so it can be moved around, and to make getting under easier, too, and the dollies make it sit a little "off" on angle due to the different tire OD front to back, but it's always sat rear end towards the doors, which is rear end low. When I moved it to level and pulled the dollies, front to rear the engine is almost 4 degrees nose down. Sooooo, another task added to the list for when the body comes off is to rework the tranny mount AGAIN, but this time to drop the ass end and get things right. I'm not really happy about the mistake, but then again I'm glad I realized it now as opposed to after the chassis is painted! Besides, I'm working for myself anyway, so my labor rate is $0. And yes, "Right" to me means carb flange as close to level as I can measure, and then adjust the pinion angle to tilt up exactly the same amount the tranny tilts down, which is going to be in the neighborhood of three degrees. One step forward, two steps back today....