Thread: 1956 Chevy 210 Handyman Wagon

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The cup holders needed notches to clear the cup handles if necessary and they also needed something to keep the cups from falling thru.
I drilled the holes for the notches with a 7/8th's holesaw in my drill press and finished the notch with a hack saw.


To keep the cups from falling thru I used some 1/8th diameter aluminum rod. Drilled three holes and heat pressed the rod into the other side by heating it up with the gun and just pushing it in. I super glued the loose ends after trimming them to length.


All cleaned up. I sanded the seam smooth and rounded over the edges of the handle notch. These are glued into their respective brackets now and I am masking for paint. I used a general adhesive I picked up at the Home Depot. It is for PVC and ABS so it worked well with both mediums for this job.

All painted and hung up to dry. This is still wet. I used a satin black paint to kinda match the shine on the original console.

I bent up some ABS brackets and glued everything up. You can see one here. I used the same glue to attach the cup holders to the shifter console.

Bar clamps and spring clamps held everything in place while the glue set up. It only takes 10 minutes for this stuff to work so it went pretty quick.

All ready to install in the car.


In the car. They work very well! Used it Saturday to hold my travel mug full of hot coffee. Didn't spill a drop!


I have about ten bucks invested in these including the price of the glue...
Mark

Those cup holders came out pretty sweet! Good Job...

Mark, what I like is your simple, straightforward approach on projects like this. I would have never considered PVC pipe for this, and if I did I wouldn't have thought to use the cement that they sell for joints as a surface attachment. Thanks for taking time to post.

Very nice work on the console/cup holder mod. That turned out very nice!

Hey guys, thanks for the compliments! Haven't been posting much because I haven't been on the boards. Counting today the wagon has been out to a friends repair shop for three weeks. We changed out the steering box initially, did the oil, trans, rear end fluid change stuff and decided to adjust the rockers to get rid of a lifter tick on the passenger side... Nope, not gonna do it.. Cam had a flat lobe... VERY flat! Needless to say that opened up a can of worms that we are just beginning to get closed.
The same day we found out about the bad cam I had ordered a fuel injection set up from Performance Fuel Injection. So, along with the the new cam, lifters, timing chain, intake, water pump, harmonic balancer, belts, hoses, radiator and A/C condenser brackets, I installed new supply and return lines, O2 Sensor, fuel pump and pre-filter, wiring, ECM, distributor, coil and TBI unit.... Whew...
We got the car fired up Saturday evening. Still have a few tweaks to make in the ECM to correct a rich exhaust and low idle but it is running again and I hope to head over to Kalamazoo Friday afternoon for the NSRA Nats. AFTER a front end alignment sometime this week.
Mark

Nice work!!

.

You've been busy! Just curious, did you see a need to do anything special to flush the ground down cam lobe residue out of the engine, or did you find that it was mostly settled out in the pan with the really fine stuff caught by the filter?

Hey Roger,
Didn't know the cam was flat until after the oil had already been changed and the filter tossed. We changed the "brand new" oil after the cam swap and I will change it again after 500 miles or so. The 350 has an aftermarket 7 qt pan so hopefully there will be no consequences down the road. The oil pressure is pretty good at 40psi so I don't think there is any damage because of the cam going bad.

That is one fine looking wagon!!! Good thing you found that wire problem before it went up in smoke.
Those old Chev wagons always reminded of the old junior stock wagon of the 60-70's from the NHRA .

Sorry to hear about the cam issue, but it sounds like it's fixed up and good to go now! Have fun at the NSRA Nats!

I am too the point with this car that frustration is taking over. It runs, I drove it a couple of miles last evening but now the oil pressure gauge is dropping to zero at an idle. It is an electric gauge so tonight I am going to plug in a mechanical one to get a real reading.
I can't believe the pressure is really going to zero because the lifters are not making any noise when it drops that far. If pressure was down the lifters would be clacking and there is non of that. We'll see tonight I guess.
If the pressure is that bad I will have to cancel going to Kalamazoo this weekend.

Good luck, I hope it's just a bad gauge or sender!

Thanks Ryan!
Oil pressure is fine! The mechanical gauge worked much better then the electrical one! 50lbs of pressure at cold start and 25lbs at a hot idle. Running at 2500 rpm the pressure is between 65-70 so there are no worries on that end any more. The idle is real low, probably around 500 or 550 RPMs so the ECM will have to be re-mapped to bump it up. That won't happen today so I am going to leave the car home this weekend. Anyway, it looks like it will be up and running after the idle is adjusted so hopefully that can happen next week.
I will be in Kalamazoo, the hotel room is paid for and non-refundable at this late stage in the game. I'll leave the wagon home though.