Thread: 1931 Model A Coupe

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Here's a little update. I wanted to adapt the rear roll down window without
using the rear shelf assembly that I'm not using to gain more room. Here's a pic
of the original pieces, note the hole in the face of the drain pan which accepts
the bottom fastener of the window crank assembly.
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Here's the new pan installed, it has the matching window crank hole like the
original.
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Rich

I used 3/8" plastic tube which connects to a piece of stainless tube dumping
out thru floor pan. I had provided for this while building support tubing.
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Here's the finished panel installed with window mechanism.
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Rich

I decided to make a couple pieces to finish off the sides of the rear window.
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I made provisions to attach seat belts.

That's it for now, Rich

That is some seriously nice work! Your inside paneling remonds me of the guts of an airplane. Too cool.

X's 2!! Wow that's nice!!

x3 Beautiful work! Like the Riveted look of the panels, very much like an old aircraft.

Thanks for the kind comments guy's! Been busy on some little side projects, need to
get back on the Coupe.
Rich

Just posting a pic with the seat in, now I can sit, and make car noises!
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Rich

Awesome! What's the seat out of?

Robert:
It's the middle seat out of a Plymouth Voyager van, late 90's to mid 2000's. I spray dyed
the seat till I can get it redone in a traditional style with 3" pleats. Paid 45$ at the junk yard.
Rich

The seat looks great in there!

I feel this belongs in my build thread so I'm posting it here. A friend of mine sent
me a link to an article on Embossing. It had given him the idea to press the Plymouth
logo into his valve covers. Scotty has a 48 Plymouth Coupe that has a Hemi in it.
Of course they don't make valve covers like this which is the whole idea! He
wanted to know if I would help, Hell yes! Here's a link to the post that he cited:

How to Emboss Lettering into Sheet Metal - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board

Iv'e used urathane in the past, but usually use steel male, and female dies.
This article shows male dies with the urathane used as the female die
on 20 gauge. I like to reverse the process with heavier gauge (18) and use the
urathane as the male die with steel female dies.

Why use urathane instead of steel dies? There is no need to drill locating holes
to line the dies up on odd shaped pieces like the valve covers. He would like to
chrome the covers later. Lots of uses for urathane!

Here's what were trying to accomplish, the pic below shows the valve cover with
the logo marked where he wants it. Below is the 16 gauge female pattern taped
to a blank test piece of 18 gauge. (valve cover is 18 gauge) Notice the small pieces
taped to the 'P', and 'O' to complete the letter. Do not use more than one layer of
tape as it will imprint the valve cover.
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Here I'm pressing the test pattern. Female pattern on bottom, 18 gauge blank
on top of that with 1/8" 90 durometer polyurathane on top of that. I start on
the taped letters to lock them in so won't move. I move back, and forth over the
letters in 3 stages increasing pressure till I max out my 50 ton press. I think the
minimum needed would be 20 tons? The more the better definition. As it is I
want better definition for the finished product.
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Rich

I now have moved to the work bench, removed the urathane to expose the
test piece that still has the female die under it. I clamp both sides of a single
letter to the bench so there is no movement. I made a corking tool out of
an old chisel by welding a small piece of flat stock to it that I shaped to just
fit the width of the letters in the female die. No sharp edges. I work each
letter with the tool to sharpen the definition, and get a feel for the tool.
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Here's a pic of the tool.
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Here's the finished test piece laid on the valve cover.
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Here's a close up of the letters.
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