Thread: 1931 Model A Coupe

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Started fabbing the floor panels. I'm using 16 gauge with 3/4" tubing on the perimeter
with a couple cross braces. This brings it up flush with the floor.
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Fabbing the next piece with my home made bead roller. (32" throat)

Rich

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This view shows the tubing, I haven't intalled the cross bracing yet.

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Looking better!
Rich

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This is probaly over kill, but I always over build. I want a solid body when I'm
done.

Rich

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This starts the seat belt installation. The 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 3/16" tube are the
uprights for the 3 point belts. The 3/4" pieces get welded inside the tubing
which is than drilled, and tapped for the bolts holding the belts. I wanted
plenty of purchase area for the threads. The long pieces of 1/4" plate will be
welded to the sub rails, they run from the door jamb to the rear of the car.

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Welded, tapped, ready to install.
Rich

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Here most of the pieces have been installed. The body bolts go through the plates
welded to the sub rails. I had already shimmed body. The tubing is also stitch
welded to the body shell below the rear window.
I know there is a lot of opinions on seat belt install, this is my method. I'll
follow up later with belt pics when I install the seat.

Rich

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Found the pics, heres the upper mount.
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View from the rear.
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Heres the finished view. These are from Julianos, the GM style belts.

Rich, in that last picture is your lower mount tied to the frame?

Roger, all the frame work I installed is welded to the body. The belts, and seat are bolted to that frame work.
If the body was seperated from the frame in a crash the belts, and seat would still be attached to the body.

Rich

Nice work !!!

Great work Rich, its never overkill. Its just not done until you feel its right!

Thanks for the kind words Navy7797, Modela31 !

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I tacked the rear panel support after shaping it to fit the the correct curvature.
I sand blasted the original center support, and welded it in .
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This rear area was in bad shape, I replaced most of the supports. Everyone seems
to treat this area differently, and so will I. I extended the drain rails down, and
formed a box section that will hide the tail lite buckets. The bottom will be open for
drainage.
Rich

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This was an original rumble seat panel that curved in to the trunk area. I cut off
half of it, formed a flange on it with 1/4" 20 nuts welded behind the attatchment
holes I drilled for the next panel.
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Heres the matching panel I fabbed to finish the box. The open bottom is above the
gas tank.
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Another view.
Rich

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I didn't like the corners on the trunk lid.

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I welded a piece fo 19 gauge on.

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Shaped to fit.

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Rich

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Now for the upper corners.

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Done.

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I also removed the tail lite panel, and welded all the corners on it.
Rich

I meant to add in the last post that I relocated the off center latch hole, reshaped the inner trunk panel to accept the latch.
I fabbed my own adjustable catch for the latch on the tail lite panel.
Rich