Thread: 1931 Model A Coupe

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This is fascinating for the newbie. I never knew the bodies came apart like that.

Al, I was determined to remove all rust!

I'm going to post a little demo on how I press form shapes. I'm just an amateur, and
I'm sure others have better methods. That firewall was the largest pressing I
have done, but the principle is the same.

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This is 16 gauge here, I give the pieces a gap of one and a half to one. These measured
.057, with gap of .085 . It doesn't have to be this exact, I use drill bits to measure the gaps.
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Drill bits align blank with female die. I have scribed the outline of the male die for
positioning.
Rich

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The female die is now under the blank lined up with the drill bits. The male die is
taped to the outline we scribed on the blank. I also had taped the female to the blank.

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here it is ready to press. This is where I spray everything with WD40.
Rich

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I sandwich the piece between a couple pieces of 1/2" plate. I start in the middle
pressing just enough to lock it in place. Pressing in 3 spots till complete. I found
less distortion by doing it gradually. I have converted my 50 ton press to air over
which makes repeated pressings easy. A 10 ton press would work.
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Ready to pull dies.
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Heres the finished piece which I had primed to get an idea of the finished look.
Tighter clearances will result in better definition, but you risk shearing the
finished piece.
Rich

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Heres the dies, and the blank to make the firewall.
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I cheated, and used my cheap mill to cut the dies.
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Most of my projects were done the hard way with air saw, and hand tools.
Rich

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This is pressed in the opposite direction of the X design.
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I found a pic of a English 32 firewall tag, and had my son-in-law machine it for me.
Rich

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The main design ready to press. You want to press it into the form stretching the
metal, not pull it in distorting the whole piece. There is always some distortion
though since we don't have a press that holds the piece while pressing the design.
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Don't forget the oil!
Rich

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I had always planned to beef up the back since I'm using a firewall mounted brake, and
clutch. This is 1/8" plate that will be edge, and plug welded to the back side.
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All welded up.
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At the last minute I found the brake lines would be in the way of the vin tag, so I
cut it out, and moved it.
Rich

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The reason I had to modify firewall.
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I used these to help set engine angle, there is threaded rod with 1" sq tube at
the rear of the pan rail to raise or lower engine.
Rich

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The $185 radiator I got off E-Bay.
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I could not get the hood line I wanted, and had to lower the pad a 1/2".
Rich

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Looks better.

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Rolled it outside to check grrill shell height, and gas tank fit.
Rich

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A shot of the 35 dash I'm using, pedal placement, and temp steering column
I'm using.
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32 tank, and rails mocked in position.
Rich

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I coped these pieces to tie into the rear cross member.
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Finished installation. I had to box the rear 32 rails, add a cross memeber, and
a lot of fussing around to make the tank fit.
It would seem that tieing into the sides of the frame would be more logical, but
trying to clear all obstacles is difficult.
Rich

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As it sits today. The small supports are to keep the tank stable when the body
is removed. There is some slight flex in the rear crossmember that will be
addressed later.
Rich

Wow Rich just read the whole thread. Full of great ideas methods, and enginuity which I will apply to my seat when the time comes!