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Thread: 1931 Model A Coupe
          
   
   

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  1. #76
    RichB's Avatar
    RichB is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 A Coupe
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    Thanks a bunch Stovens!

    [IMG][/IMG]
    Ready to box the frame.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Using 3/16" cold roll flat stock. Have a portable band saw in a home made stand
    to cut the 4" wide pieces. I have a metal supply house a few miles from my house
    which is really handy.
    Rich

  2. #77
    RichB's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 A Coupe
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    Most use 1/8" plate, I like the heavier 3/16". It's stronger, taps better, and I
    over build everything anyway.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Typical stitch weld.
    Rich

  3. #78
    RichB's Avatar
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    I alternated top, bottom, and side to side to minimize warpage.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Finished main rails ground smooth, with clamps off perfectly flat.
    Rich
    bluestang67 likes this.

  4. #79
    RichB's Avatar
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    Here is the start of frame 'Z'. I found I did not have enough suspension travel
    without it. (4") This means I also have to lengthen the gas tank support. So much
    for planning ahead!
    [IMG][/IMG]
    I welded the inside of the frame 'Z' before adding the boxing plates.
    Rich

  5. #80
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    All welded.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    I'm adding stiffener plates inside the rear cross member to eliminate any twist. I'll
    also box it.
    Rich

  6. #81
    RichB's Avatar
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    Forming the cross member plate out of 1/8" flat stock.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Tacked ready to weld up, also rear tank brackets lengthened. Inside of frame was
    sprayed with weld thru primer, and sealed away from welded seam.
    Rich

  7. #82
    RichB's Avatar
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    Trial fit of body to clearance sub frame for 'Z' in frame.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    All finished with new mount, and sub frame reenforced.
    Rich

  8. #83
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    I work alone most of the time so I built a rig to lift the body. (my buddies are old, and
    cranky not much help lifting)
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Another view.
    Rich
    GeorgiaDad likes this.

  9. #84
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    The cowl is very rigid here.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Made tabs on the body braces to bolt lift to.
    Rich
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  10. #85
    RichB's Avatar
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    A friend gave me a 38 front end. (freebie!)
    [IMG][/IMG]
    I'm using dropped steering arms with a new forged 4" dropped axle so I trimmed these
    off the 38 spindles. I know you can buy tapered bungs, but I wanted to use the old
    parts when possible. I took an old tie rod end, and welded it to a piece of pipe.
    Rich

  11. #86
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    [IMG][/IMG]

    Heres the finished parts. I used 1/2" plate as I was Out of 3/8", and I think 1/4" is a
    little light. (over kill as usual!)
    Rich

  12. #87
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    Heres a pic of the dummy rear end. It has slip tubes to set rear end width.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Here I'm trying to finalize ride height, tire clearance, and body rake.
    Rich

  13. #88
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 67 Mstg cpe , 37 Ford Coupe
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    Rich ,, some really detailed work your doing there .. Filling up that retirement time very well spent ..

    .
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  14. #89
    RichB's Avatar
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    Thanks Bobby, good to hear from you! If I ever get all these pics posted, I'll try to post
    some pics of R.M.'s dragster.
    Rich

  15. #90
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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    Very nice! The Z turned out sweet! I admire the tools you have as well.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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