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Thread: 1931 Model A Coupe
          
   
   

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  1. #121
    34_40's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    Wow.. just gorgeous! I'll bet your ears were ringing after all that beating.

  2. #122
    RichB's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 A Coupe
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    The damage was done long ago 34_40 ! LOL
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Found this on a trip to the junk yard. It's from a 96 Chev Geo Metro. It has a built
    in stop, and return spring. They had 4 cars in a row, bought them all 20 bucks,
    already gave 2 to friends.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    This a new (old style) Flaming River Column that I welded a piece of 3/8" stock on
    that will index into a notch in the tubing welded to the firewall.
    Rich

  3. #123
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    This shows how the column indexes into the firewall piece which clocks it with
    the turn signal, and proper depth setting. There is a locking screw on the engine
    side of the firewall, plus the column drop.
    The gas pedal has been bent, with a tab welded to catch the cable carb linkage.
    There was grinding needed on bracket to get full stroke needed for carb.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    The round pedals did not give me enough room, so I fabbed new rectangular metal
    pads, to fit rubber pedal covers I found on line at Summit. I welded a spacer into
    the column drop to fit the new column, and added braces to the firwall that are
    not visible in this pic. I made a hold down for the rubber boot on the shifter.
    Rich
    Last edited by RichB; 02-07-2015 at 10:45 AM.

  4. #124
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 A Coupe
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    I wanted to finish covering the rear suspension. This piece ties into the rear panel
    covering the tail lites. There is a removable cover for acess to tank sending unit,
    and fuel feed. The card board simulates battery box.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    This piece has inset removable plates to acess body mount bolts, and upper coil
    overs. Making card board template seal off passenger compartment. Had to be
    in two pieces , would not fit as one large piece.
    Rich

  5. #125
    RichB's Avatar
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    I decided to go ahead , and make a battery box.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    I get most of my solid rivet supplies from Aircraft Spruce.
    Rich

  6. #126
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    I used #2 cable, and clear plastic for a vent line, none of this will be visible.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    I'll wait to finish the side panels till I fit the fender fit up.
    Rich

  7. #127
    stovens's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford F1
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    Beautiful work
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  8. #128
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    Yep! What he said... x's 2..

  9. #129
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    Thanks guys!

    [IMG][/IMG]
    I wanted to get an idea what shape to make the hood blisters, and the placement
    on the new side panels I'll make.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    I wanted to visually see the blisters so I glued some particle board together, and
    shaped with the DA. Dusty, but shapes very easily.
    Rich

  10. #130
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    More particle board glued together for the hammer form.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    I used .063 alum. for the blister.
    Rich

  11. #131
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    I annealed the blister coating it with acetylene, than burning off. I had to repeat this several times as it work hardens, and tears easily.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    Rich

  12. #132
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    Cheap Harbor Freight planishing hammer, but it does the job.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    The foot ball shaped dolly in the vise is used to fine tune the blisters. The red
    laser dot shining on the dolly helps find the sweet spot. I picked that up from
    the guys on the Metal Meet forum.
    Rich

  13. #133
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    [IMG][/IMG]
    Heres the laser stuck in a piece of 2 x 4 screwed to the ceiling.
    [IMG][/IMG]
    After a little prime, and block.
    Rich

  14. #134
    Navy7797 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford p/u 1937 Caddy Coupe
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    That's some great sheet metal work !!!! I like the laser trick,

  15. #135
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    That's amazing! (at least to me!)

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