Thread: 1947 Chrysler New Yorker four door sedan

Tweet

This kit is used in 40's Mopars to clear the stock steering one kit offsets the mounts,nice bunch at Butch's maybe give them a call. 42/52 Plymouth, 41/52 Dodge SB Chrysler Engine/Transmission mount kit 2188CP

Thank you Jeff B2, went to Butch's website check it out I think it was exactly what I needed so I bought it and will find out if it works in a couple weeks. I've been away for a little while but I'm back now and I've got most of the engine already to go I'm waiting for the gentleman that I have one gentleman ahead of me at the place where the engine is going to be put in and we should be taking my car down there in about three weeks. Had to update a lot of parts. Save for this and save for that so it took me a while to get there but I'm there . We'll have new pictures of the motor and the installation hopefully in about three weeks.I'M READY TO GO THE BUCKSTER

Talked to our local machine guy today and somehow the old Chrysler straight 8 got brought up. He said that motor is one of the most expensive motors to build that he could think of. I think the 340 is a good choice.

Hello 53 Chevy5, that Gentlemens opinion was spot on I made some inquiries about rebuilding it and yes it was very expensive! I grew up running around in A340 duster and it was a running little car. This motor is supposed to have a little bigger cam I'm putting headers on it and it has a 650 Edelbrock carburetor for it. So I think it will push me down the road okay. I think it will make a nice little dependable cruiser. My next plan of attack is the rear end and brakes. I'm leaning towards a bronco or explorer 8.8 Positrac rear end. I have to keep the drum brakes on the front for at least a couple more years and I was wondering if the bronco or explorer if they came in a drum or disc rear end, and if so which one would be better for my situation . So I'm looking for some different opinions on this so please weigh in if anyone out there as an opinion

I have an 8.8 on my pickup and I think it should be good, I haven't had it on the road yet but they sure are popular for Hot Rods. My first ranger rearend had drum and my Explorer one has disks on the back. I think the disks are more common and I'm not sure how the rear disk front drum combo would work. I think I would make it a priority to switch the fronts over to disks right away. I have a brother that had drums on the front of his Chevelle and he always fought those things till he put on front disks.

The 8.8" Ranger is narrower than the Explorer you can swap the disc brakes from the Explorer to Ranger's drum brakes the Tech info can be found here: Ford Ranger/Explorer 8.8-Inch Axle

Thanks guys, that was great information . I think I only have one question left . I was told the way to measure the rear end was to measure from inside to inside the break backing plate . Is this the right place to measure . Thanks,THE BUCKSTER

Kinda close.. you need to measure from the wheel stud flange to the wheel stud flange.

".....Kinda close.. you need to measure from the wheel stud flange to the wheel stud flange........"


Yup. Getting an accurate measurement can be a real PIA. A trick I use is..... if possible remove the brake drums then use a couple of pairs of Vice Grips to clamp a piece of angle iron (about 18" long) to the outside of of each axle flange. Then it's real simple just to measure between the angle iron.


If you can't get the drums off, drilling a hole on the end of each piece of angle iron and using a lug nut to hold it on will also work.


.

Laying in the engine/transmission and the differential are the most involved procedures in an engine swap and differential swap, and require some math and geometry. Here is some excellent information from Inland Empire Driveshaft.....
https://www.ccsdesigns.com/_builder/...in%20Setup.pdf
https://www.ccsdesigns.com/_builder/...up%20Guide.pdf

As the motor produces torque, the differential pinion will try to climb the ring gear in the differential. This changes the pinion angle and driveshaft angle in relation to the engine/transmission angle and may pinch the pinion cross and bearings to a point beyond its ability to conform, resulting in damage to the cross and bearings or the yoke(s) or both. Different designs will allow more or less pinion climb. A leaf spring rear suspension allows the most movement and a 4-link would allow the least. In a drag racing environment, the pinion is often installed at a negative angle of several degrees to counteract the upward angle achieved when power is applied to the pinion. In a street driver using leaf springs, it has been my practice to install the pinion at 1 to 1 1/2 degrees up bubble, with the engine and transmission at 3 degrees down bubble. My thinking is that with the car under power, the pinion will climb the ring gear a little and cancel out with the engine/transmission at 3 down and 3 up.

If I were doing this today, I would use a 4-link rear suspension system with coilovers and splayed upper bars so that I didn't have to employ a Panhard Bar. Use caution when welding to the differential case, you can warp it and put the axle bearings in a bind. When welding to the case, use an oxy acetlyene torch to bring the remainder of the tube circumference to a dull red, so that the entire 360 degrees of the tube has seen the same heat. That's your best chance of keeping the tubes straight, unless you use a steel bar and steel inserts to mock the bearings.
http://www.progressiveautomotive.com.../TRB-CD-03.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...n/IMAG0729.jpg

Pay no attention to amateurs who tell you how to orient the links to each other and to the car. Billy Shope, Chrysler Corporation engineer and one of the original Ramchargers from the 60's has explained many times how to set up the rear geometry when using 4-link bars. And by the way, let's get the nomenclature correct. A 4-link rear suspension is a design laid out by chassis engineers like Billy. A 4-bar rear suspension is a design laid out by someone will lesser professional training. That's as nicely as I can put it. Of course I can't find the diagram I'm looking for, so will substitute another.....
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/.../rearsquat.jpg
Begin by drawing a vertical line through the center of the front tire. Next draw a horizontal line at the center of gravity (usually equal to the placement of the camshaft in the motor in a side view. You'll see that in the accompanying diagram, the draftsman put it just below the top of the front tire.) Now, from where the center of gravity line meets the vertical line drawn through the center of the front tire, draw a line from that intersection to the patch where the rear tire meets the pavement, called the tire contact patch in the illustration. This line that angles down toward the rear tire is called the squat/anti-squat line. You can see where the extended lines from the 4-link bars meet, that is called the Instant Center. If the Instant Center is below the anti-squat line, the differential will rise and the body will squat. If the Instant Center is above the squat line, the differential will plant itself and the body will rise slightly. See if you can find some videos of a 60's Chrysler product launching at the drag strip (In the 60's time period) and you'll see the body rise I'm referring to.
Here's another illustration of the squat/anti-squat line and where the extension of the rear links contacts it....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peKl1THfQXY
And another, that gets into anti-dive....which you should be aware of....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzayUxQCWaY

OK, that's about all the mind-numbing blah-blah-blah I can feed you at one time, but if you get your mind wrapped around the basis of all this, you will be able to converse with mechanical engineers about how your car is set up. Meer mortals will hang their mouths open and stare at you like you have 2 heads......

Now, about those brakes. JeffB2 has the hot tip for you as far as sourcing your rear diff and brakes, so I'll move on....

If I were to set up an early car like you're doing, I'd use manual disc brakes front and rear. There is no need to get into the complexity of power discs when you can stop the car very well with non-power discs at less expense and engineering. The keys to balancing the braking power overall as well as front to rear is as follows.....
You will have 2 variables that will describe the braking process, the pedal ratio and the diameter of the bore of the master cylinder. I would begin with a pedal ratio of somewhere around 6:1 or 7:1, which coincidentally is probably what the stock brake pedal is in the Chrysler.
http://www.mpbrakes.com/techtalk/wp-...rake-ratio.png

For the master cylinder, I would begin with a 15/16" bore and see how that works. If it takes too much pedal travel to stop the car, I might move up to a 1" bore. If you still have room for the pedal to move and the pedal is hard, you may want to try falling back to a 7/8" bore. It will all be a balance to be worked out to your satisfaction. Bigger bore, less pedal travel and harder pedal. Smaller bore, more pedal travel and softer pedal. Use a master cylinder that was designed for manual 4-wheel discs. You will likely have to go to an aftermarket supplier like Master Power Brakes (888) 533-1199 or some such supplier. Ask them about what valving to use with 4-wheel manual discs and master cylinder under the floor, although they may tell you the same as what you see in this diagram.....
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...1&d=1269097241

.

WOW!!! and WOW!!! again, I definitely got my questions answered and then some. I want to thank all you guys for jumping in and helping me with my questions. Like I said I'm new at this and I've been to a couple other forums before finding this one and none of them holds a candle to the people here at Clubhotrod. I'll be 64 years old in three days and I've met a lot of people in my life time so I know what I'm talking about. When I started this project I was a little bit worried about getting it finished, but with guys like you around my ride will get finished. I have to give a special shout out to techinspector1 for all the hard work and research that he put into his answer. I haven't deciphered the whole thing yet but every time I read it I figure out a little more. So thanks to all you guys again and I know I'll have tons of questions for you coming up. THE. BUCKSTER

Happy birthday to you,
Happy birthday to you,
Happy birthday dear Buck-sterrrrrrrrrrrrrrr,
Happy birthday to you.

My name's Richard, what's yours?

And by the way, I'm 75 and have met a few people myself.....

.

Good morning Richard , thank you for the birthday wishes. My name is Randylle Buck, hence the version BUCKSTER. Randylle is the old English way of spelling Randall, and I only have my parents to thank for making me spell it every time somebody goes to write it down. But it's different and I wouldn't change it for the world. Just like our HOT RODS!

Happy birthday tomorrow!

Thank you 40fordDeluxe, is it just me or do the birthdays seem to come around the whole lot faster the older we get, I kind of think so. THE BUCKSTER