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Thread: 1937 Plymouth 5 Window Coupe
          
   
   

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  1. #46
    firebird77clone's Avatar
    firebird77clone is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I find a mild stall converter a MUST when running an upgraded can, or you'll have to put trans in neutral at idle. I've seen folks try to run a high stall on the street, it's dangerous at a stop if the road is wet.
    techinspector1 likes this.
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    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  2. #47
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    I've found that most issues with stalls on the street with a cam can be resolved with carb tuning and ignition curve/timing---a good idle at 850-1000 rpm will be below the converter on anything out there

  3. #48
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1937 Plymouth Business Coupe
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    OK. I haven't posted more on updates for my build lately so he we go. I now have the engine mostly completed now. Only thing I have left to purchase is the carburetor. I have the plug wires sitting on the bench. I just need to fit and cut them to the right length and install the wire looms.











    Now that the engine is almost complete my next plan is to more onto the drive train. I already have the transmission out and ready to go to the builders.

    Although my next move is going to be tackling rebuilding the Mustang II front suspension. So I just went to Speedway Motors web site and ordered a rebuild kit (bushings, ball joints, bolts, etc.

    I have also been waiting for the weather to get nice enough so I could put the frame on the trailer and take it to the car wash so I could pressure wash it an clean it up. The frame is actually in really good shape it just needs to be finished up. I have also ordered up a pair of Competition Engineering ladder bars that I plan to install soon also.


    Well that is it for now. I will post some more pics once I get things cleaned up and a little more work done.
    Last edited by mprevo; 10-13-2017 at 02:14 PM.
    It is easy to make a small fortune in Hot Rods. Just start with a large one.......

  4. #49
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    looking thru your pics and engine without intake manifold couldn't tell if you had the DOGBONES on the lifters???

    Also I've got some headers like those coming to see how they look on the rod( nice balanced look side to side) altho they did list issue with some types of motor mounts in mid 80s vettes--------how is the clearance at the spark plugs?

    Like the lines run inside the frame, and since you have power steering you could use the hydro boost brakes from a Mustang-----

    Looking good
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  5. #50
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    No dogbones. This was a factory roller block. As far as the clearance at the plugs go I had to order up some shorty plugs to miss everything. That is why I don't have the wires installed yet. I will have yto check into the hydro boost brakes. I have gotten that far yet but I am always looking for ideas as this is the first Hot Rod I have built.
    It is easy to make a small fortune in Hot Rods. Just start with a large one.......

  6. #51
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    You need the dogbones and the retainer spider for the factoy rollers

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    You need the dogbones and the retainer spider for the factoy rollers
    Wow! It's a good thing that you went back and looked at Page 1! That would have been real mess when it was lit off without the restraints!
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  8. #53
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    Always learning more things around here. This was my first engine build by myself. I definitely need to do some more homework I guess. I will pull the intake back off and check it out. I don't remember seeing any holes there but I'm sure they were probably there. I guess that is the problem with starting with a bare block. I didn't tear it down so I wasn't really sure what was supposed to be there.
    It is easy to make a small fortune in Hot Rods. Just start with a large one.......

  9. #54
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    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  10. #55
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    Your picture, posted earlier -

    Engine.jpg

    See that line of holes down the center of the valley? They are threaded, to retain the spider that Tech posted a picture of, holding the dog bones in place to keep the rollers on the lifters aligned with the cam lobes. Without them the lifters can turn sideways, and you'll wipe out your cam in short order.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  11. #56
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    Makes sense. Guess it is back to tear down again. Which is probably OK since I just noticed a couple drops of oil on the ground below the stand. Now I have to see were that leak is coming from too.

    .
    Last edited by mprevo; 10-13-2017 at 02:15 PM.
    It is easy to make a small fortune in Hot Rods. Just start with a large one.......

  12. #57
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    Good catch Jerry.

    .
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    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  13. #58
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    X2, Jerry, I think you just saved mprevo a lot of money and aggravation. That would have gotten real ugly real quick.


    .
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  14. #59
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    Great catch on that one. Really good for mprevo that he listened and learned before it was to late. Edward.

  15. #60
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    I just pulled up the picture Tech posted, and you need to be aware that there are apparently different styles of dog bones

    Chevrolet 305 350 Roller Lifter Guides aka Clips Dog Bones Pack of 8 | eBay

    Just make sure whatever ones you order are compatible with the rest of the part you already have.

    .
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

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