Thread: 1937 Plymouth 5 Window Coupe

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

Lots of fellows make the mistake of using a an overdrive trans with a race cam.....won't work.

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I have already purchased most of the parts for the engine. The cam I selected is a little aggressive but my tranny builder says it will be OK. My friend (and builder) owns a transmission shop and is probably the best mechanic & builder I know. In fact he also teaches these subjects at our local college. He is going to go through this 700r4 from top to bottom with me. He is the one that told me this is the tranny I need for the usage I am planning. He says he can build it "bullet proof" for me. Only time will tell though. Why do you say it won't work? I always say that I'm never to old something new from the experts, so I would be intested in your thoughts.

Originally Posted by mprevo

Why do you say it won't work? I always say that I'm never to old something new from the experts, so I would be intested in your thoughts.

Tech can likely say it better, but your rear tire circumference, rear gear ratio and desired highway cruise speed will define a narrow band of rpm that you'll be looking for good economy and enough torque to keep from having to "get into it" for minor changes, like rolling hills, passing, etc. Your cam will have an rpm range for best power and economy, and a torque curve that tells you the flexibility of the engine speed. An "aggressive" cam is generally "happy" 3500rpm and up, while your OD tranny is going to be cruising at a much lower rpm which can make for a very frustrating hot rod. Your cam is probably the most important decision you'll make for a happy driving experience, followed closely by the balance of tire size (for looks and operation), rear gears and tranny OD ratio. Just my $0.02.

Well the excitement of building the engine finally got the better of me and I had to start. My plan is to build a 383 stroker. I talked to a lot of people and did a lot a research. Once that was complete I ordered up the parts. Here is what I came up with for my engine build.

Block:
• Summit Racing Block
• Part #SUM-150100-30
• 1996-2000 GM Block
• 4 bolt main
• .030 overbore
• Lined honed mains
• Lined bored cam
• Clearanced/Machined for 3.75” stroke
• Machined deck surface

Crank:
• Scat 9000 Series
• Balanced
• Cast Steel
• One piece RMS
• 350 Mains
• Polished Crank
• 3.75” stroke

Rods:
• Scat Pro-Competition Rods
• 6” Rod Length
• Forged 4340 Alloy
• ARP 8740, 7/16” Cap Screws
• Rod to cam clearancing and sizing

Pistons:
• Wiseco Pistons
• Fully forged
• 4.030 (.030 over)
• -10 cc Dish Top
• D-Cup
• 1.140 Compression Height
• Forged 2618 Aircraft Alloy
• Hastings 2M High Performance, Moly, Standard tension rings

Bearings, Damper, and Flexplate:
• Clevite bearings
• Balanced on CWT balancer
• Pro-Race 6.75” Damper
• Heavy Duty flex plate

Cam:
• Howards Cam
• Part #180345-10
• Hydraulic Roller
• Valve lift = Int. 565/Ext .580
• Duration @ 0.050" = Int. .245/Ext .253
• Lobe Separation = 110 Deg

Heads:
• NKB Ultra High Flow Aluminum Heads
• Part #NKB-200-274
• 200 cc Runners
• 64 cc Combustion Chambers
• 2.02/1.60 Stainless Steel Valves
• Melling 1.46 diameter dual roller springs
• Howards 7.250” Pushrods, 4130 Chromoly, .080 wall thickness, 5/16” diameter
• Straight Plug
• ARP 7/16” Rocker Studs
• Dart Guide Plates
• Extreme Duty Gold Series Stud Girdles and 7/16” Poly Locks
• ARP Head Bolts
• Multi layered graphite/steel, .030 thick head gasket

Rockers:
• COMP Cams
• 17005-16 High Energy
• 7/16" Stud Diameter
• Die Cast Aluminum Roller Rocker Arm
• 1.6 Ratio

Timing Chain:
• Cloyes Hex-A-Just Timing Set
• Part #220-9-3145A-10

Intake:
• Edelbrock 7501 Performer Air-Gap Intake
• Aluminum
• Dual Plane

Carb:
• Quick Fuel SS-750 Carburetor
• Super Street,
• 750 cfm
• 4-Barrel
• Electric Choke,
• Mechanical Secondary
• Double Pumper
• 4.5 Power Valve.

I am in the process of building this engine now in my shop. I hope to have it complete in the next week or two. This engine build is supposed to produce around 510 horsepower at 6200 RPM with 10.5 to 1 compression on pump gas. Of course this is only on paper so the real answer is yet to be determined. Either way this should be lots of power for the old Plymouth. Of course one can never have too much power right……

On a side note I now have a tune port injected 305 SBC (that I know nothing about) sitting in the garage if anybody needs one.

Here are a few pics of the progress.










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