Thread: 383 Stroker Build

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I realized it'd been some time since i updated my log and i still need to upload some old pics to replace them for the ones that got lost when server went down months back. Well, Dad and I have been busy since last time I posted on this thread. We did decide to replace the mechanical water pump with an electric one from Mezier and I will say you can notice a big difference in the cooling. I know with electric we sacrifice the bulletproofness but like anything else, we gain in other areas too by going electric. We also installed a Kirky seat and fire extinguisher. We shot about a minute long video today and i'll work to post a youtube link once my wife gets home and does it for me. Only thing i need to buy for the car now, unless something goes wrong, is a set of four tires. Still need a trailer and truck to pull the car but i'm getting there. On monday we plan to pull the car out of shop, disconnect shiftnoid, put it in gear, and see what it does. Previous owner had a dedenbear delay box and shiftnoid in it. I don't know much about them and was hoping some of the racers on here can give me some knowledge or experience they have with them, how they work, etc. I think i'm not going to use the trans brake as a rookie but do want to use line lock and would appreciate also if anyone has a step by step routine they can share when using the line lock. I need to determine if the line lock is run to the delay box because if i'm not going to use delay box for a while, i'll still need to get 12v power for line lock somewhere else. Or as a rookie should i use the delay box and shifnoid? Again, I've got no experience with them and this is the first drag car I've ever built (with Dad) and I'm a rookie racer whose not been on the track

Try this link, DEDENBEAR-Technical Library-What Is? it'll go right to the OEM manufacturer Q&A library..

also you can get the wiring diagrams there too!

Sounds great, absolutely LOVE the air filter assembly.....LET 'ER BREATHE !!!!!!

This is a good lesson for you other fellows who want to build a hot motor. Just follow the instructions and you will be successful like Mr. Dobbs.

No break-in necessary with a roller. Fire it and go.

Robert, please get me a couple more photos of your seat arrangement and the belts. Does the crotch strap come up through the seat or come around the front of the seat to fasten up with the lap balts/shoulder belts?

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That looks really nice! You've got to be pretty excited to get to the track now!

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Sounds great, absolutely LOVE the air filter assembly.....LET 'ER BREATHE !!!!!!

This is a good lesson for you other fellows who want to build a hot motor. Just follow the instructions and you will be successful like Mr. Dobbs.

No break-in necessary with a roller. Fire it and go.

Robert, please get me a couple more photos of your seat arrangement and the belts. Does the crotch strap come up through the seat or come around the front of the seat to fasten up with the lap balts/shoulder belts?

.

Richard, appreciate that man--you've been a great help to me since we started this build!! I'll work to get you some more photos of the seat arrangement. Crotch strap does come up through the seat, got a lap belt that comes through both sides of seat, and harness also comes through the top of seat.

As an update to this post, we put the car in gear for the first time today. Drove her out, backed her back in. After doing this and getting to work the gears, now it really wants me to take her to the track as soon as possible! This motor really does exude some power and i got a chuckle after my neighbor came over to our shop yesterday and told me that when we crank and run the car he can hear it all the way back at his house which is a pretty darn good distance from our shop.

Originally Posted by DennyW

And, remember, always double check everything, before you go for that run...

Got it Denny, you know i'll probably get with ya on some things too before i do that first test and tune night! Man, you've given me some sound advice and help too on this build from timing to cooling as well as other side automotive things we've got going on!! Having guys like you, Richard, 34/40, my Dad, Jerry, and so many others on this Forum in my corner helping me is something you just can't put a price tag on. I'm only 40 and still have a ways to go in life but everything you've guys have shared with me on cars and motors has been soaked up and and the knowledge put to use.

Video shot from last Saturday, about a minute long,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSrOPsvsSBg

That sounds awesome! It sure makes me miss mine.

Originally Posted by Rdobbs1977

Got it Denny, you know i'll probably get with ya on some things too before i do that first test and tune night! Man, you've given me some sound advice and help too on this build from timing to cooling as well as other side automotive things we've got going on!! Having guys like you, Richard, 34/40, my Dad, Jerry, and so many others on this Forum in my corner helping me is something you just can't put a price tag on. I'm only 40 and still have a ways to go in life but everything you've guys have shared with me on cars and motors has been soaked up and and the knowledge put to use.

What a class act you are! This has been one of the best threads ever and it is due largely to your outstanding attitude of wanting to learn and be coached along this project. Can hardly wait to see a video of your first drag strip run. I know I speak for many here when I say you folks raised a great son and one to be very proud of!

Best,
Glenn

[QUOTE=DennyW;564649]A few things keep popping into my head to ask. What type of driveshaft are you using, and what type of U

Yes, we've got the U strap for driveshaft as it was my understanding that was required. Can't advise at the moment on type of d.shaft and u joints we're using. Timing is at 33 right now but plan to bump it to 36 before we start racing. I also don't forsee a starting problem for us bumping those few degrees either but that is something I will check. Advance curve if I can juggle the right concepts in my head lol is all in at about 2700 RPMs. What ya thinking Denny, I don't want to start second guessing things but will if needed!!!! In the video shot, I just steadily raised the RPMs with momentary pauses before bumping up higher those few times. Highest rpm in that video was 4000.

Permetex #2. Works good to seal threads that go into water. Its non hardening

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Sounds great, absolutely LOVE the air filter assembly.....LET 'ER BREATHE !!!!!!

This is a good lesson for you other fellows who want to build a hot motor. Just follow the instructions and you will be successful like Mr. Dobbs.

No break-in necessary with a roller. Fire it and go.

Robert, please get me a couple more photos of your seat arrangement and the belts. Does the crotch strap come up through the seat or come around the front of the seat to fasten up with the lap balts/shoulder belts?



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Richard, see the pics. So am i good to go, what ya think?

here's a second pic

CREDENTIALS
Valid NHRA competition license mandatory for cars running 9.99
(*6.39) or quicker.Valid state- or government-issued driver’s
license beyond a learner’s-permit level mandatory for cars
running 10.00 (*6.40) or slower. See General Regulations 10:4.

DRIVER RESTRAINT SYSTEM
Seat belt mandatory in all cars. Three-inch driver restraint system
meeting SFI Spec 16.1 mandatory in any car running 11.49
(*7.35) or quicker.
SFI 16.1 restraint system, when required, includes
crotch strap and must be updated at two-year intervals from date
of manufacture. See General Regulations 10:5, 10:11.

HEAD PROTECTOR
In any car where a roll bar or roll cage is installed, a padded head
protector must be provided at the back of the driver’s head and
constructed in an attempt to prevent whiplash upon impact. The
roll bar or cage must be padded wherever it may come in contact
with the driver’s helmet. Adequate padding should permit
minimum 1/4-inch compression or meet SFI Spec 45.1. The use
of weather stripping and similar thin or low impact resisting
materials is prohibited. A padded roll bar or cage alone is not
acceptable as a padded head protector unless it is within 4 inches
of the driver’s helmet. A seat that incorporates a reinforced head
rest is permitted.

HELMET
For all 10.00 to 13.99 closed-bodied cars, either an open-face or
a full-face Snell M2005, M2010, K2005, SA2005, SA2010, SFI 31.1/2005 or 41.1/2005 helmet with or without a shield is mandatory.

For all 9.99 and quicker closed-bodied cars, 9.99 (*6.39) to 7.50 (*4.50 ) or any vehicle exceeding 135
mph: Full-face Snell
M2005, M2010, K2005, SA2005, or SA2010 helmet mandatory;
shield permitted (goggles prohibited).

PROTECTIVE CLOTHING
All Participants.......
Full-length pants; short- or long-sleeved shirt; closed shoes; and
socks. No shorts. No tank tops. No open-toe or open-heel shoes
or sandals. Synthetic clothing not recommended.

10.00 (*6.40) to 13.99 (*8.59); all E.T. non-OEM supercharged,
non-OEM turbocharged, or nitrous-equipped cars with an OEM
or .024-inch steel firewall: Jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/1
mandatory.

9.99 (*6.39) to 7.50 (*4.50 ) or any vehicle exceeding 135
mph: Jacket and pants meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/5 and gloves
meeting SFI Spec 3.3/1 mandatory, except as noted above.

It's hard to tell details of your belt system, but what I can see of it looks OK. On the crossbar where the belts go around the bar, put a worn-screw clamp around the bar on each side of each belt after lining them up on the crossbar at exactly the proper position for them to go straight through the seat. The idea is to prevent the belts from sliding on the crossbar. Here's the idea.....If, for some reason, you moved the belts to the side for some reason and then got into the car to make a pass with the belts not lined up and you tightened the belts on your body (you thought they were tight because they tightened up on your body), but then you have an incident like an impact or rollover that allows the belts to move on the crossbar and loosen up, then you could be thrown out of the belts the next time the car rolls or flips. It gets ugly from there. So, line the belts up and insure their parking place with clamps. This shouild then be one of your "pre-flight" checks each time you make a pass, along with fuel in the tank or cell, water in the radiator, empty fluid catch can at the radiator, battery fully charged, tire pressure, etc., etc.

I used to recommend to the fellows to bring the car out when you can make an appointment with all of the tech guys to look at the car at once, like before or after an event that you will not participate in. If you have more than one tech inspector looking at the car at the same time, it is just human nature that they will try to outdo each other in finding things that are outside the rules......and that's what you want.......you want them to find every little detail that does not satisfy them, then make it right and you'll never again have a problem with tech at that track.

I'll tell you something else that will make fast friends of the tech inspectors. If you brought a grill with you and will fix something to eat later, invite the tech guys over for a plate. You will be their hero, I can guarantee it. Also tell them that you will always have cold water for them at your pit.

Immediately after you enter the gates and pay up, pick out a pit space and fill out your tech card and sign it. DO NOT PUT THIS OFF, do it first thing, before you unload the car. I used to cruise the pits right after the gates opened, looking for fellows that I knew absolutely would pass tech, no question, because I had looked at the car many times. When I saw a car that I knew very well, I would follow him to his pit and wait for him to fill out his card, then just sign off on the card and wish him luck. He would never have to go to tech and wait in line because he was one of the fellows who made my job easier with meals at the big events, etc. If you make the tech guy's life easier, he will make your life easier.

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https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=5w1qoc_JIsI

We hope to be on the track this year. Tested the new trailer out and first loading car on it. Just need some tires, suit, and helmet. Richard, I'm going to take another look at your post on this before I order. I plan to just try and bracket race a little bit first (provided i can get past the tech inspectors and learn the car through test and tune ha ha). By the way, how do i go about getting an NHRA license? I figure i need one, right?