Thread: Stude M5 build

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wreckers can't sell them either. I don't have to worry about smog testing I just like having a cleaner rod. I had a 67 camaro that would smell pretty bad until I got it out of the garage, my 5.0 miata smells a bit until the cats start working, but you wouldn't notice it outdoors. Some Ca rules just are not logical.

It must be some chemical that they put into the fuel out there, maybe like the chemical that makes logical, reasonable people vote a Democratic ticket. ..... I remember the chem trails when I lived out there......INSANE........ I'll bet if you took a Geiger Counter down to the shore and checked the ocean water, you'd get the hell out too. I understand that radiaton from Fukushima is washing up all aong the coast.
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I'm gathering parts to build a stainless exhaust and I have never used v bands before. I'm debating whether to use the stock style 5.3 flanges or cut them off and do v bands. There's also a huge difference in price for these things ranging from about 10 bucks each on ebay to 80 bucks each for an assembly. Any opinions on this?

I guess nobody here uses v bands.
Just a follow up on my previous post about CA cats, I got a screamin deal on amazon for two Walker 80708 CalCat , they were 30 bucks each and legal to send to me in CA. I have scored some good deals on the warehouse deals, seem to just be returns they want to get rid of quite often at half the price. Just got a nice stainless ap exhaust muffler for 22 bucks normally 40.

I've used lots of V bands over the years and it just depends on what you want out of your exhaust or intake systems-they work good in boosted inlet air systems and nice for an exhaust system where you might want to remove/install different arrangements often----

If you ar etalking about cutting off cast iron flanges ????????????

No I have some stainless header that I made, I used the flanges that came off some cheap ebay stainless headers for the 5.3 truck motor. Just debating if I should use those flanges or v bands. Do you think the ebay v bands are junk?

I don't know what V-bands you have but they have been used on aircraft on all kinds of high pressure tubing and they make a much better joint than a slip over muffler clamp or plates bolted together with gasket-------they have 2 different sides that must be used correctly and you can rotate the clamp anywhere that gives you access to the t-bolt-----

Plan ahead so your placement of the flanges are paired male/female etc--------2 females could be joined but 2 males will definitely not work no matter what CNN says

I've used a lot of high dollar Vibrant brand v band flanges on compound turbo piping on diesels. I've also used the cheaper e bay type but mainly ones from race parts solutions. On my 40's exhaust, I just got some cheap mild steel v bands. They were rather inexpensive and were nice quality. I have only installed 2 and can't start it to do a leak test to give feed back on that. The full marman ones are pretty nice and offer a little more wiggle room when installing them. IMO

This is a full marman 3" just to give you an idea and something to search.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MARMAN-FLAN...-/262837735759

I can't remember who I got mine from, but these are what I got for the exhaust on my 40. I have welded these on LS cast manifolds for a friend's turbo build and they worked well on it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-V-Band-...tVqYFE&vxp=mtr

Hey thanks for for the feedback. Maybe I'll take a chance on some ebay ones. The price of the vibrant bands makes me want to use the old flanges.

I think you'll be happy with them. The only thing I could say is when you weld them try to have the 2 halves clamped together and try not to put a lot of heat into them to eliminate warping the flanges.

Ok, thanks, good idea.

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I got my new transmission all bolted up and the engine ready to go in and stay in. I found that my new ac pump is a slightly different design than the one I built the brackets for, so had to modify the brackets a bit. Of course the new compressor also had a hump that hit the frame so I had to pull the motor back out and cut and weld in a larger relief. That's what I get for using the old pump for mock up...

The bottom image on post 67 illustrates what I hate most about a pickup truck build, not aligning the bed with the body. Look at the bottom of the window where you would hang your arm out on a nice day. That line needs to be parallel with the top of the bed. Not necessarily on the same line, but parallel. The image you are showing looks like almost every other yanked-up truck build that I have ever seen, like a giant picked up the truck and bent it in the middle so that the body and the bed are not parallel.

Same thing happens on an early build, like a A or B model Ford, on the radiator mount. If the vertical line describing the rear of the radiator shell is not parallel with the firewall, then the whole mess looks like caca.
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Tech, I get what you're saying, but on every Studebaker I've ever seen, the top of the bed is about 4" or so lower than the bottom of the window opening. You'd physically have to make the bed sides taller to get them to line up.

The thing I like about the 40's stude is the high belt line making it look almost like a chopped top compared to other trucks. I always thought the bed looked kind of low on the original, mine sits a couple inches higher than stock. To make it even with the window it would be ridiculously high.