Thread: Stude M5 build

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Did some more work on the throttle pedal and it's probably as good as it can get. The electric speedo and temp gauge are not working so I have to figure that one out.

I hope you get it all figured out, spring is upon us. And that will be a very neat truck.

Temp gauge - you didn't use Teflon tape on the sensor that screws into the block/intake, did you? It gets it's ground through the housing, and tape can insulate the connection.

I hope I wasn't that dumb, but it's possible! I'll see if I can see it, it's in a bad place to get to.

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It's super hard to even see the temp sender, I have to use a mirror. I tested the body of it to ground and it was good so I'm thinking it's not insulated with tape. I finished up a hitch receiver for it, it just hangs under the license plate so putting the plate on a hinge so it can flip up when in use.

Got my speedo working yesterday, I didn't have the wire from the ECM hooked up! Did a cal on it and then pulled the needle off and eye balled it to the right spot on the Stude gauge and it works perfect. My temp gauge is dead I think, the sender changes resistance but the gauge never moves at all. All the other electric gauges move when they get power, so I'm going to buy another one.

You did a great job on the hitch receiver! Beefy and very clean design. I'm impressed.

Thanks Roger! I've been trying to figure out how to securely lock this thing. Stude only put a lock on the passenger side, what a pain. I'm starting to think I may go with Bear Claw electric latch. It'll lock and pop open the doors with a remote, seems like it would be harder to steal that way. Any one use Bear Claw stuff?

Just looked some more and realized the electric remote setup won't work so I'll have to decide if it's worth the work to install the manual ones.

The left door should lock from the inside, both my 36 and 40 did, and with a bench seat it's not too much of a hassle. It appears your door lock is below the handle which makes it difficult for the left side.

Many old cars had the lock function built into the same handle inside. One rotation would open the door latch, the opposite direction would set the latch to lock. And I think all vehicles "back in the day" only used a exterior door lock cylinder on the passenger side. I know it was a law on the books here in Mass. to only enter/exit from the curbside door. Even into the 1980's it was still on the books. Maybe you already knew all this???

Both of mine are fiberglass bodies and came with bear claw latches already installed, but I used the safety latch kit from Rocky Hinge on the '33 that has suicide doors, and also used their front drive setup on the SBF in the '33 coupe, and the safety latches on the suicide doors - https://www.rockyhinge.com/ The dad started making street rod hinges, than son Brad got his engineering degree and they expanded their line. Great products, great family business. You might take a look at their stuff and see if there's anything that works for you.

Roger, thanks for the heads up on Rocky Hinge, I ordered their locking latches yesterday. Didn't want to use China made latches. Thinking I'll do electric actuators for the lock part, get an alarm with remotes.

Originally Posted by v8nutz

Roger, thanks for the heads up on Rocky Hinge, I ordered their locking latches yesterday. Didn't want to use China made latches. Thinking I'll do electric actuators for the lock part, get an alarm with remotes.

Very cool! If you have any questions about the installation don't hesitate to call them. Brad is a great guy, very much committed to their stuff working right, in my experience.

I used them on my 40 Ford. I still have to set up a lock rod. IDK if I'll lock the car though. I'd rather the dirt bags open the door rather than knock a window out............