Thread: 53 Is back from the Body Shop

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I will be using a separate horn than the factory horn. It will be mounted on the bottom of the floorboard right next to the relays I use. I was hoping to hook it up tonight but my BIL grabbed Rita today to look at what's going on with the transmission. We were going to take it to Cruz to the woods by Des Moines Iowa, I was going to be danged if I let that thing sit at a motel parking lot overnight in Des Moines without an alarm, the club, a kill switch, and my concealed carrying permit LOL

I backtracked and started reading some of the stuff Ken was asking too. The circuit needs to be turned on by The ground wire via the dome light, and I need to cut off the circuit with my hidden toggle switch. It doesn't matter to me whether the toggle switch cuts off positive or negative power, it just needs to turn it off. I did have it where it would latch , but like Ken mentioned, the relay was energized all the time which would be bad. One thing that I see that I will have to do differently is get a horn with a separate ground wire. The one I am using uses the frame of the horn to ground it.

revised drawing;

Here are some options to the same circuit;

Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5

The one I am using uses the frame of the horn to ground it.

Use my revised drawing for your horn, it switches the positive to the horn. The latch stays on until the power switch is interrupted. The interrupt switch will need to be outside the car or put on a delay, otherwise the opened door will activate it. You can put a delay module on the first relay, this would give you time to set and de-activate without setting the horn off.
https://www.amazon.com/Delay-Relay-M...592299&sr=1-17

Assuming door is closed and relays are at rest, when door is opened:
#1 Will not work as there is no power to the horn but would work if there was a constant power to pin 85 of the 2nd relay

#2 Will not work as there is no power to the horn unless the relays are energized and they can't be energized since there is no ground for the relay coils.

#3 Will not work since there is no ground for the relay coils


Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

Assuming door is closed and relays are at rest, when door is opened:
#1 Will not work as there is no power to the horn but would work if there was a constant power to pin 85 of the 2nd relay

#2 Will not work as there is no power to the horn unless the relays are energized and they can't be energized since there is no ground for the relay coils.

#3 Will not work since there is no ground for the relay coils


Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Sorry, got to go to band practice, I'll have to resume this tomorrow.
Look closely at the diagrams, the ground is set by relay #1 when the door jam switch engages which latches relay #1 to ground through 30 $ 87, this in turn activates and hold relay #2, #2 supplies the 12VDC+ to the horn through 30 & 87, the horn grounds directly. Switch interrupts the latch, starting the circuit over.

Here it is with a delayed entry/exit;

I have an external interrupt switch installed. I did not know they made a delay switch, I really got to catch up on this whole electronics thing. At first I thought the delay switch would be a great idea, but then I realized that if I open my doors after it sat a while, I would set the alarm off myself. The delay switch would work good for setting it but not for getting back in. When I get Rita back from the shop I'm going to be anxious to wire it up.

Originally Posted by 53 Chevy5

but then I realized that if I open my doors after it sat a while, I would set the alarm off myself. The delay switch would work good for setting it but not for getting back in. When I get Rita back from the shop I'm going to be anxious to wire it up.

Look closer, the module gets it's initial ground through the door jam switch starting the delay. When you leave the door jam switch starts the delay so you have time to leave, close the the door before the delay is up and it starts all over because the relay hasn't latched yet. Open the the door to get in, the module grounds and starts the countdown again, turn the activation switch off and nothing happens, don't turn the switch off and the alarm activates once countdown is done. The trick to this circuit is to set the delay for it with as little time as possible so the crook doesn't have enough time to close the door, yet you have enough time to de-activate.

Want to go a little further, add a wireless remote switch, no delay needed.
https://www.amazon.com/dstfuy-Wirele...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Or, use your phone;
https://www.amazon.com/DSD-TECH-Blue...1607327&sr=8-3

Originally Posted by 36 sedan

Sorry, got to go to band practice, I'll have to resume this tomorrow.
Look closely at the diagrams, the ground is set by relay #1 when the door jam switch engages which latches relay #1 to ground through 30 $ 87, this in turn activates and hold relay #2, #2 supplies the 12VDC+ to the horn through 30 & 87, the horn grounds directly. Switch interrupts the latch, starting the circuit over.

Here it is with a delayed entry/exit;

Without a ground on the end of the coil the relay will never energize unless 87 and 87a are reversed and with the toggle switch closed how do you get power to the positive side of the coil?

I see what you're seeing, I used generic pictures for the switch and jam switch, it shows the jam switch as closed should be open, the activation switch is closed. Circuit is at standby waiting to activate by door jam switch contact.
Make better sense. Sorry, I sometimes assume everyone sees what's in my head.

I would use an alarm siren instead of a car horn, the battery will last longer.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Aut...-1106151859392

I was wondering the same thing.

Originally Posted by 36 sedan

I see what you're seeing, I used generic pictures for the switch and jam switch, it shows the jam switch as closed should be open, the activation switch is closed. Circuit is at standby waiting to activate by door jam switch contact.
Make better sense. Sorry, I sometimes assume everyone sees what's in my head.

This will work as intended if the jam switch is connected to pin 85 of the first relay and pin 87 of the first relay is connected to pin 85 of the second relay. The jam switch as you have drawn shows it grounded through it's mount which is correct unless you're working on a plastic car such as my 76 Corvette. But being grounded in that manner has no effect on the switch as it's contacts are insulated from the body of the switch. Every jam switch I've ever dealt with has two contacts for connecting wires and they are insulated from each other until the switch is made. One wire is usually grounded and the other wire goes to whatever is being controlled, ordinarily a dome light or under dash light(s).
The only other type of jam switch I've encountered are roller switches used on aircraft to let the pilot know when a door is closed. The ones I am familiar with are three pin switches configured like 30, 87 and 87a in a SPDT relay and I found many to be wired wrong on DC-9 and DC-10 aircraft.