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Thread: Trike, take 2
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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    I saw one driving down the road the other day but I ave no idea what it was made out of. I was going to get a pic of it for you but a piece fell off so I slowed way down and waited for the right opportunity to get ahead of it. It was sketch city.

    I think you're making the best choice. It will look more cyclish with the tube style frame up front IMO.

    .
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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  2. #17
    34_40's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
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    I agree with Ryan (fwiw) in regards to the tube chassis and appearance. I think it's a good choice.

  3. #18
    falconvan's Avatar
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    I've the cage tacked together; time for some finish welding plus adding some gussets to the strut and upper control arm mounts. Then I think I'll start getting the frame rails figured out.
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    53 Chevy5 and 40FordDeluxe like this.
    1 Corinthians 1:27

  4. #19
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    How'd you get all the bent tubing? DIY or ordered out?

  5. #20
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    I've been borrowing a tubing bender from one of the electrical contractors I use at work. I tried using a Harbor Freight hydraulic pipe bender but it doesn't like that chrome moly tubing. They should rename it a pipe kinker instead of a pipe bender.
    1 Corinthians 1:27

  6. #21
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    I have a Harbor Freight pipe bender. It is OK for gentle bends in galvanized or black iron well pipe, but will kink tubing (mild steel, chromoly, etc. Don't even dream of bending exhaust pipe with it). It will even kink well pipe if you try to bend more than a few degrees (except 1/2 inch pipe which it does quite nicely).

    For future reference - The trick to making full bends is sand. Cap one end of the pipe and then fill the pipe with damp sand. Tamp it down tight with a broom handle until the pipe is full and cap the other end. Now you can bend it without kinking. When done bending, uncap the ends and remove the sand. This is how I did all the bends on my Track-T frame and roll bar. It added a little time and work to the project, but it turned out fine.
    mprevo likes this.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  7. #22
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    Ok, I tried dry sand but same result. Probably didn't pack well enough.
    1 Corinthians 1:27

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe View Post
    I saw one driving down the road the other day but I ave no idea what it was made out of. I was going to get a pic of it for you but a piece fell off so I slowed way down and waited for the right opportunity to get ahead of it. It was sketch city.

    I think you're making the best choice. It will look more cyclish with the tube style frame up front IMO.

    .
    It was probably the one I was mentioning earlier in this thread
    Seth

    God cannot give us a happiness and peace apart from Himself, because it is not there. There is no such thing. C.S.Lewis

  9. #24
    J. Robinson's Avatar
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    Here's a pic of my roadster that shows the roll bar, side and front nerf bars, and hairpin radius rods pretty clearly. All those parts are made from black iron well pipe and bent on a Harbor Freight pipe bender. There are other bent hoops under the dash and side bars in the body that are not visible. The nerf bars and front radius rods are made from 1/2 inch black pipe and bent without sand stuffing. The roll bar and the inside body bars (various sizes) had to be stuffed because the first attempts kinked after bending maybe 20 - 30 degrees from straight. Yes, the sand must be damp and packed very tight.
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    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  10. #25
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    The cage looks good. I'm looking forward to watching the progress on this.
    Steve

  11. #26
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    Nice progress. That will look a lot better than the factory structure.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  12. #27
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    Got the cage welded up, time to start figuring out the frame rails.
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    NTFDAY, 34_40 and 40FordDeluxe like this.
    1 Corinthians 1:27

  13. #28
    daveS53 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    One thing that I would do is remove the struts and replace with mock-up bars set to a length that produces 60 percent of the shock travel in compression. I built my car that way and even did the front wheel alignment with them.

    I put the entire engine and suspension from a 62 corvair into a Beatle when I was 17. Back then I wasn't smart enough to remove the too-stiff rear springs and get the rear swing axle properly aligned.

  14. #29
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    Good idea, Dave. I'll try that.
    1 Corinthians 1:27

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