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Thread: '37 Dodge sedan
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    PNW Rodder's Avatar
    PNW Rodder is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '37 Dodge sedan
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    Alright, I'm back. Been absent a while, for a couple of reasons. Momma wanted a new kitchen, so I spent the last couple weekends adding trim to cabinet doors, painting all the cabinets and installing new countertops. I didn't mind the old stuff, but I figured she lets me escape to the shop more often then she asks for my help with literally anything, so I don't mind putting my projects on hold to make her happy. Also been "working" longer hours during the week. My place of employment offered to put me through an electronics troubleshooting course at the local community college, so I took them up on the offer, but it left very little time to spend with my family, so once again I decided it best to let the car wait. No regrets about that, it's not going anywhere, and my little girl is only getting bigger and more independent.

    I finally got back at it this afternoon, though. Fixed some of that Swiss cheese structure inside the cowl today. I didn't focus too much on making it look pretty, because it can't be seen once it's all back together. Used 16g to make the patch and burned it in with the MIG.

    IMG_20180222_154303121 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr

    Also used some 16g scrap to make a couple small brackets to brace the lower door frame, now that its been beaten back into the correct location. The brackets fit into the bottom of the A-pillar and stretch diagonally across to the lower cowl structure and up to the inner toe board support. I think they'll do just fine for what I had in mind.

    IMG_20180222_160056454 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr

    Also, final update on the compressor (hopefully). I went ahead and replaced the pump. Couldn't have the question lingering in the back of my mind, what with having just dropped a bunch of money on the new motor and all. I still need to drill some cooling holes in the belt cover I made for it, but it's not a big concern right now with the temperature as low as it's been. I also replaced the in-tank check valve, now it holds 125psi for 2 days without a noticable drop (testing only, I drain it every night when in use). Glad to finally have my big compressor back, the 110v Craftsman wasn't up to the task as a permanent solution.

    IMG_20180211_125308170 by Ryan Mazingo, on Flickr
    40FordDeluxe likes this.

  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNW Rodder View Post
    ...... now it holds 125psi for 2 days without a noticable drop (testing only, I drain it every night when in use).
    Just curious, why do you drain the tank every night? You're venting off air that's already dropped out moisture (heat of compression, cooled to ambient in the tank, moisture condenses and collects in the bottom of the tank). If you just pop your drain valve open to blow off collected condensate as you leave the shop I'd think you're good unless you have concerns about your tank. Another option would be to turn off power to the compressor, so it doesn't run at night if it does happen to leak down. Again, just curious, no big deal.
    40FordDeluxe likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #3
    PNW Rodder's Avatar
    PNW Rodder is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    [QUOTE=rspears;575405]Just curious, why do you drain the tank every night?

    Up here in the Pacific Northwest, there is no such thing as moisture free air. Ideally, in a perfect world, your theory is correct: but that has not been my experience. I haven't tried it in a few years, but my old compressor would flood the hose with vaporized water if I left it pressurized. Not as bad in the summer time, but it's so damn wet here 90% of the year that the warm months don't even cross your mind.

    It also helps to prevent air leaks due to leaky seals and avoids unnecessary stress on the cylinder reeds. Ideally, the in-tank check valve should be keeping pressure off of the pump heads, once the unloader valve has relieved the pressure in the discharge line after it shuts down. But if the check valve leaks by, and you unplug your compressor when it's not in use (that'd be me) the solenoid doesn't have power to keep the unloader valve open: at least not on mine.

    Basically, I've been doing it this way so long that I couldn't break the habit anyhow. Lol
    rspears and 40FordDeluxe like this.

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