Thread: FFR 33 Ford Hot Rod

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Originally Posted by Hotrod46

Cast can be welded using the right welding rods and procedure. I tig welded my tubes in with nickle filler rods and preheat. It welded fine with no visible cracking. I've had good luck tig welding cast over the years. Tigging seems to help prevent cracking.

The housing is most likely nodular iron (which is made with scrap steel and iron, cheaper than pure cast iron and stronger), but nothing I've found proves that. I will say that it grinds (sparks) like nodular iron or what we used to call in the machine shop "semi steel".

I've had a 9" with a bent tube also. It caused a bearing and axle failure in less than 10,000 miles. I learned to check every junk yard rearend for straightness after that.

Yes, nickle would work. I tried welding on my pumpkin to see if it was cast or steel, It laid a nice looking bead and I broke the bracket off with a small hammer. That was using a wire welder though.

Can you weld an iron LSx Block?

Depends on where it's cracked and how bad. I welded a crack in the starter mount on a SBC. It was a good engine that I didn't want to replace. Again, I tig welded it with nickel.

If it was in a water or oil area, I would most likely trash it.

This was on the wall adjacent to the motor mount

I wouldn't trust it. That's a water jacket as well as a high stress area.

Mo Underneath

I've pinned a few cracked blocks with good results.

Slow week this week as the shop had some other priorities. Work on prep continues. Next week they are moving it to a fiberglassing guy that will align the gaps, fill the holes, and close the openings.

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Have you considered contouring the front edge of those back fenders any, like coming out from the body and initiating a smooth curve with a large radius? That flat bottom and sharp corner seems kind of harsh, to my eye, but beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I'd probably do the same in back, but then again I'm not a big fan of fenders on a highboy so my opinion doesn't count for much.

I had the same thought as to the outer edge. With the roundness of the body versus the fenders edge along the bottom being "sharp"..

Some small curve would be a help to blend it together.

It goes to another fiberglass guy next week. We have plans to have a rolled lip on it and to smooth the sharp edges off

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Originally Posted by wrp

It goes to another fiberglass guy next week.

Can he take a couple of inches out of the total width? Or maybe you're planning to fill the fenders with wider rear wheels & tires? Same for the fronts, to my eye I'd split them and take out enough to just cover the tread, but again that's just what pleases my eye, which matters not at all.

I have no real plans on widening the tires. The front fenders have already been narrowed nearly two inches. their role is to prevent damage to the paint job that eventually is coming. We are going to bob the rears more to soften the sharp corners and accentuate the tires. I have been told these fenders are actually more oriented towards the 32 Fords

IMG_2359.jpgIMG_2361.jpgIMG_2363.jpgKind of intimidating when the car is sitting next to an all steel body 1934 Chevy, full fenders small block. Kory has some awesome projects. This car has been in his family for decades.

We took the car out to a fiberglass shop today. They are going to finalize all the gaps, repair the holes and so forth.

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