Thread: Sunday Red: A 1932 Roadster Build Log Started in 2022

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Originally Posted by rspears

I'd say yes, you're going to need a welder to do your project. Trying to fab things, then take them to a welding shop and expect them to get everything positioned just right for welding isn't going to work well for you.

You would be smart to enroll in a class for basic welding, like here - https://www.csn.edu/programs/welding-technology. A good 220V MIG welder will serve you well.

Thank you. I could fit a welder into my budget and my local makerspace also has lessons for me to learn from. I might go ahead and do both of those things.

first thing i learned when building a roadster . all the weight is on the front axle , they are so lite they ride like a buggy. newer suspensions have helped there . but the bottom line is it is a stripped down hotrod . it's not suppose to be a luxury ride . i know my falcon will ride like crap jacked up with an axle but ride has nothing to do with it . it's a hotrod .
#1 rule of a hotrod is there are no rules .
hell does this look like it's gonna ride like a caddy ?

Engine was just dropped off by the freight company! Just want to finish out my work day and then I'll get started on taking off the EFI components and prep the engine for a carb.

I agree with rspears, get a good 220 volt welder, it will have the horsepower to weld chassis and suspension components, and the ability to weld sheet metal with a little finesse.

Originally Posted by blwn31

I agree with rspears, get a good 220 volt welder, it will have the horsepower to weld chassis and suspension components, and the ability to weld sheet metal with a little finesse.

I agree, I think I will need a welder too. However I don't have a 220 line and my breaker to my garage is only 20 amps and everything I'm reading says I should have 30 amps. So I will have to fix that first or use a 110 welder

The shop foreman decided he needed to inspect the delivery before any work could start


Can anyone tell me what this sheared off piece is? I know my donor car was in a front-end collision so I'm wondering if this is related



Spark plugs from both sides look OK, I'm encouraged by this



I have one of these being delivered to my tomorrow. No one is going to confuse Husky for a top tool company but for my space needs, I think this will work just fine.

That broken part appears to be the serpentine belt tensioner. If you are converting to a v-belt front drive, you won't need it.

If I had an engine with plugs that nice, no way I would rebuild it! Unless something is damaged on the long block assembly from the wreck, it looks like you got a good one.

For your application, most of the bolt-on external parts will go in the trash, including the distributor and water pump.

Originally Posted by Hotrod46

That broken part appears to be the serpentine belt tensioner. If you are converting to a v-belt front drive, you won't need it.

If I had an engine with plugs that nice, no way I would rebuild it! Unless something is damaged on the long block assembly from the wreck, it looks like you got a good one.

For your application, most of the bolt-on external parts will go in the trash, including the distributor and water pump.

Yes, I'm going to follow the advice of leaving the engine alone for now. My current plan is to (1) put my chassis on order and (2) convert the engine to carb. Once that's done I'll fit the engine to the chassis so I can check fit, etc. and continue the build from there.

Is your cloths dryer near your garage? If so is it 220V? If it is, this is what I did, built myself a heavy duty extension cord to run my air compressor and welder before I upgraded my service. It's not the best, but I gets you going on what you want to do. I still have the extension cord, it's all set up to extend my welder power so I can use it outside of my shop.

Originally Posted by blwn31

Is your cloths dryer near your garage? If so is it 220V? If it is, this is what I did, built myself a heavy duty extension cord to run my air compressor and welder before I upgraded my service. It's not the best, but I gets you going on what you want to do. I still have the extension cord, it's all set up to extend my welder power so I can use it outside of my shop.

Oh that's interesting! Yes, the dryer is right next to the garage, an extension cord might just work! I will have to find one the next time I'm at Home Depot.

Originally Posted by JimBeam

Oh that's interesting! Yes, the dryer is right next to the garage, an extension cord might just work! I will have to find one the next time I'm at Home Depot.

Figure out the length you'll need and make your own, Buy heavy duty connectors and either 8 or 10 gauge wire, I'd use 8 gauge for 220volt.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

Figure out the length you'll need and make your own, Buy heavy duty connectors and either 8 or 10 gauge wire, I'd use 8 gauge for 220volt.

I agree, get a length of No8-3 conductor multi-strand wire with good outdoor insulation from your electrical supply house, and the male/female connectors that you need. I think I would consider extending the circuit from your dryer plug to a new outlet on the common wall in the garage rather than having to move the dryer away from the wall any time I wanted to weld, then reversing when you need the dryer. I think my welder extension is 50' to let me move the welder around the barn, or outside if needed. If you don't want to make one Google "Welder Extension Cord" for lots of options, but pay attention to the end connectors.

The broken part you pictured appears to be the belt tensioner.

And you will need the transmission in place when you want to check fitment of motor, it's a package deal, cannot really do one without the other, plus you will need to tell the chassis builder what the package going in will be. Along with the tranny you'll need the starter locator plate. It goes between the motor block and trans bell housing. it indexes ( aligns) the starter motor the correct distance from the crankshaft centerline. The 2 starter bolts are special but common hardware can usually work. And don't worry about using Loctite on anything for now. You only need to do the assembly at this point. It's called "mocking up".. you actually "build / assemble" the car, once it's all together, then you blow it all apart for paint and then re-assemble paying attention then to the fit and finish fine tuning.

As long as everybody is making suggestions, I'll throw my 2 cents in.

As it might be a while before you are ready to install the engine and transmission another investment you might consider is an engine/run stand. It will make the engine more stable when removing or installing parts and if you get one with a radiator you can actually fire the engine, check oil pressure, set timing and adjust the carburetor prior to either tear-down (if needed) or installation. It will also allow you to roll the engine around out of the way when needed.


You will need to make sure you get one long enough to accommodate the bellhousing as on the Fords the starter connects there rather than on the engine block. If you go with a T5 getting the bellhousing won't be wasted.

Another option rather than buying one is to grab some steel and build your own.......might be a good practice project for your welding.

This is one I put together a while back for an engine I knew would be sitting a while before it went into a vehicle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K2a8j3GsYNY

From personal experience I've found being able to fire the engine for a project up from time to time can be a good motivator to keep the project going.



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