Thread: Sunday Red: A 1932 Roadster Build Log Started in 2022

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Who would have thought that so many people were so passionate about rocker arms?

Lots of good replies in this thread and I appreciate them all. Here's a picture for you to consider:



Keep in mind that if I don't go with rollers, this is my alternative. I'm not claiming that this will turn my car into a bullet, but using bearings just has to be better than the friction that is created by the current setup, no? After all, this engine is almost 30 years old. It can't hurt to improve it with a couple of things that have come along since that era, right?

Originally Posted by rspears

I agree with Glenn 100%. Apply that $650 to something like gauges, which you'll need.

Yes, the discussion of money is a whole other ball of wax. My top priority for this project has always been that I don't want it to languish, I want to finish it relatively quickly - it's called cruising not mechanic-ing . I say that knowing full well of the old saying "cheap, fast, good, pick any two". I'm not married, I don't have kids and if I told you what I spend on rent, I'd probably make you cry. My only obligation in life is to myself and my dog. So if this project costs me a couple bucks, that's OK.

Originally Posted by JimBeam

I'm seeing a couple of comments/concern over the quality of the rockers I may be choosing. Here is my planned purchase from Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-77780

Another consideration, those are not self aligning rocker arms, you will also need to install studs for the rockers and guide plates for the push rods if your heads don't have them. Your stock rockers use a fulcrum for a pivot instead of a ball which also keeps the rocker arms and pushrods in alignment. Your rockers show some wear, if the engine were mine I would replace the stock rockers with new OEM style rockers made for your engine and spend the money on something that would actually improve the build. Did your machine shop check the cylinders for size and roundness? Stock blocks with some mileage tend to have a cylinder or two that are egg shaped a few thousandths which will have an adverse effect on ring seating. How much are they planning to hone the block, and what will your piston to wall clearance be when the block is honed?

I truly admire your enthusiasm and like the fact that you're engaging with us.

When I look at the wear pattern on that 30 year old rocker arm my first thought is that it has been extremely well designed and provided magnificent service – doing exactly what it was intended to do. I would reuse them without a second thought.

Stamped steel rockers routinely run for 200K plus trouble free miles. I’ve reused literally hundreds of them in SBC rebuilds producing north of 400 HP with never a problem. On a few occadsions, I have used roller tips on a build (only to get a consistent 1.52:1 ratio) that routinely enjoy life above 6,000 RPM.

Full roller rocker arms will net you no ascertainable difference in your build and as has been shared above, may bring problems. I too have found the needle bearings from cheap roller rocker arms in an oil pump – not pretty.

I like Roger’s idea - $600 goes a long way toward a full set of AutoMeter gauges!

I decided to do some bench work and get my heads ready for the machine shop. No matter where I land on the rockers, I still need to do these steps, right? So I decided to put my focus there and pretty happy with how it turned out.

One of the things I'm quickly learning is the old saying "use the right tool for the job". I'm learning a lot through this process and I am now sticking to this rule and only using quality tools and nothing else. I tried a couple different ways of removing my valve springs this weekend and all of them were a waste of time. So I bought the best tool I could find on Summit. Yes it cost extra (American made and all that) and I had to wait another day to finish the job BUT once the new tool was in place I was able to finish it out quickly and without frustration. I'm just going to focus on that from now on and use the best tools I can.

I'm going to ask the machine shop to do the best they can on the rust removal and cleaning up the surfaces. Nothing performance, I just want these heads to look the best they can. I will clean up the valves and lap them on my own (tools for that are on the way).




I think these valves came out pretty good for a first pass at them. I will give them a second pass once I have more time. The "before" is on the right and the "after" is on the left.

Do any of you have experience with something like Evaporust to remove rust from cylinder heads? I want these heads to be as rust-free as possible before painting and I'm trying to come up with the best way to go about this. All the machine shops around town have already told me that there is only so much they can do for rust.

It sounds like you’re doing just a basic overhaul (as opposed to an actual rebuilt). I’m assuming you are planning on new piston rings after you get the block back and are going to be checking the clearances on the rod and main bearings as the engine goes back together.

As long as you’re this far into it I would recommend that your send the valves and heads both into the machine shop. Have the heads checked to for any warpage and milled if necessary. Get the valve guide clearance checked and actually have a valve job done rather than just lapping the valves and throwing the heads back together.

With the heads apart and probably needing at least a little minor milling to get them straight the shop won’t have any problem bead blasting them to get them clean prior to the machine work.

Have the shop assemble the heads for you and that way they can also check spring height and pressure. If the roller rockers are you are planning on are need any additional machine work that can also be handled at this time and most importantly can check for coil bind if the rockers are over the stock ratio.

That will solve one problem for you (removing all the rust and being ready for paint) and you’ll have a pair of heads that will likely seal better, not suck oil, or be damaged on the first fire up (which is basically the crap shoot you’re in now).

If you elect to disregard the above, a wire wheel on a drill or die grinder will do about as well as anything. ACTUAL engine paint will adhere well to just about anything , take the heat and hold it’s color well.


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Originally Posted by Mike P

It sounds like you’re doing just a basic overhaul (as opposed to an actual rebuilt). I’m assuming you are planning on new piston rings after you get the block back and are going to be checking the clearances on the rod and main bearings as the engine goes back together.

Yes, of course. With the exception of the cam and crank, all the internals will be new. My plastigage is ready to go

Originally Posted by Mike P

That will solve one problem for you (removing all the rust and being ready for paint) and you’ll have a pair of heads that will likely seal better, not suck oil, or be damaged on the first fire up (which is basically the crap shoot you’re in now).

Hey, I took a perfectly reasonable engine and broke it into a thousand pieces. This whole project is a crap shoot! But that's supposed to be part of the fun, is it not?

Originally Posted by Mike P

If you elect to disregard the above, a wire wheel on a drill or die grinder will do about as well as anything. ACTUAL engine paint will adhere well to just about anything , take the heat and hold it’s color well.

I have gone ahead and ordered some of the Evaporust and I'm going to see where I end up with it. The online examples are quite promising and I like a DIY approach to the heads. I have my Duplicolor primer ready to go as soon as they come out rust free.

Dave, Glenn & Mike have all given you great advice. Since you disassembled the engine it only makes sense to have the machine shop check the cylinders, alignment, and block/heads, plus balance the rotating parts. Putting those heads back together without grinding the valves/seats and checking the springs is silly.

Originally Posted by rspears

Dave, Glenn & Mike have all given you great advice. Since you disassembled the engine it only makes sense to have the machine shop check the cylinders, alignment, and block/heads, plus balance the rotating parts. Putting those heads back together without grinding the valves/seats and checking the springs is silly.

The engine block is at the machine shop now. Comes back on Thursday.

JimBeam, you and I were typing at the same time following the post from Mike P, and had I seen your response to Mike I would not have wasted time on my post. Had you not quoted my post above I would replace the words with "Good luck on your build." You've obviously already made up your mind on everything and aren't really interested in anyone's advice.

Turn out the lights the party's over.

UnvleTonysGarage recently did a YouTube video showing how to paint the block on the dirt cheap, using Rustoleum brush as pplied paints. I'm giving it a try on my next build.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

UnvleTonysGarage recently did a YouTube video showing how to paint the block on the dirt cheap, using Rustoleum brush as pplied paints. I'm giving it a try on my next build.

This the one, Firebird? https://bangshift.com/general-news/t...e_L6j-L-IlgEnM

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

UnvleTonysGarage recently did a YouTube video showing how to paint the block on the dirt cheap, using Rustoleum brush as pplied paints. I'm giving it a try on my next build.

Hey that sounds interesting. Please post pics once you're done, I might try it too. I have been waffling between using a spray can or a brush to do the painting. The brush certainly gives you more control.