Thread: My Little Red Muscle Truck

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With the Healey project pretty much winding down to the end, it’s time to start something new. This is going to be it:



It’s a 1985 Chevrolet square body, but all is not as it seems because it’s registered as a ‘76. I know this truck very well and I should because my dad and I built this thing several years ago with some help from my son. We did a frame-off build on it, and this was the last big project I worked on with my dad before he got sick. It is the only complete build I have ever done for someone else. For several reasons, it fell into the condition you see now.

It always bothered me to see the truck in this shape. It was nice enough at one time to win a couple of trophies at local shows. I tried over the years to get it, but the owner always said no. After the engine went south, it was parked in his yard until the city started hassling him about it and he was afraid they would tow it. I offered to move it to my house on the condition that it be repaired. That never happened and for quite some time I have been dragging it around my yard with my tractor to mow under it. Recently, the owner moved out of state. I had had a couple of serious offers and was constantly having people stop by to ask if it was for sale. I told the owner that he needed to move it, sell it or transfer it to me. I offered him the “right of first refusal” and he decided it needed to be with me.

As to the truck itself. The original frame was bent, and I just happened to have a junk ’76 stored away with a perfect frame. A frame swap was easier than getting the original frame straightened and that lead to a pretty good restomod build. The old ’76 frame was stripped, sand blasted and coated with industrial epoxy. All the brake lines were cleaned and painted. The front end was completely rebuilt with poly bushings and the truck got 2 ½” drop spindles. The ’76 brakes were much heavier than the ’85 pieces, so they were used on the front. The rear was dropped 4” with front and rear spring hangers and shackles.

I also installed a 1 ¼” front sway bar from a 1 ton truck and an 1 1/8” rear bar from Bell Tech (I think). Heavy duty shocks rounded out the suspension. It rolls on American Racing 15x8 rims and 275x60 tires front and rear.

The ’85 rearend was inspected and new axle bearings were installed. The rear brakes were rebuilt with stock parts. All brake hoses were replaced. The truck came from the factory with a 700R4 and that was the only thing that didn’t get torn down, since it worked fine. The only trans mod was to rewire it so that it locked the converter when it went into OD. The funny thing is that the rear has 3.08 gears and it came that way. The build sheet in the glove box confirmed it. I would have guessed 3.25’s or 3.42’s.

The engine was a warmed over 305, that was retained for fuel mileage. I pocket ported the 305 HO heads, installed flat top pistons and a mild truck cam. The manifold is a Performer RPM and the carb is an Edelbrock 600. The exhaust is Hedman long tube headers with 2 ¼” pipes all the way. Mufflers are Flowmaster clones. The little engine was stronger than you would think and was capable of 20-21 MPG when driven right. Wouldn’t have been my first choice for power, but it served well until the fuel pump failed, pumped the crankcase full of gas and ran like that for who knows how long. Number 7 cylinder started pumping lots of oil and the truck got parked.

The other big mod to the truck was moving the gas tank to the rear. We built a custom tank since I wasn’t aware then that the Suburban tanks can be made to work. I moved the fuel filler to about the same location on the rear quarter as a Blazer or Suburban, too.



The wheels on the front are pretty much roached by brake dust, but the rears are still ok. I got a price from a local wheel polisher to redo them all, but I could buy new wheels for a little more. I might look into having them powder coated.



I still have a few other things to do before I can start on this one, but I'm in the serious planning stages.

Looking forward to seeing the build, Mike! Before you make a final decision on the wheels you might want to check the availability of 15" tires that you'd want to run. There are lots of gnarly off-road 15's aailable for Jeeps, but 15" street tires are getting to be like hen's teeth!

Neat project Mike .....I'll be interested in seeing which way you go on this. I really like it's current stance.


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This is AWSOME!!

Looking forward to a Build Thread!!???!¡!

Glad everyone is on board.

Roger, I ran in to that with the Healey, but I liked the look of the 15's enough to stick with them. That is, until the current set has to be replaced. I might switch to 17's then, since that seems to be the new 15. I'm currently shopping for some 17's that I like for the truck. If I have to buy a new set anyhow, I might as well move up.

Mike, I plan on keeping the stance, but it is sitting a little lower than normal in the rear because it has become a storage bin. I think 2.5-3 in the front and 4 in the rear is just about perfect for practical use.

T-top, yep, this post kicks off a build thread.

OK, get ready for another novel length post since I have a lot to cover, so here we go.

What are my plans and goals, keeping in mind that they ARE subject to change without notice?

My main goal is to build a practical hot rod. One that can be used and easily maintained. If you get right down to it, most hot rods are really toys, much like a motorcycle. Something cool and fun to drive on special occasions, car shows or when the weather is good. I want a hot rod I can use all the time, not exactly a daily driver, but close and certainly usable for that if needed. I don’t want to build a perfect truck; I want a practical driver. Nice, but not too nice. Oh, I want to be able to tow my motorcycle trailer easily, too. And I want to get some use out of it quicker than 8 years since I would be 73 then and at my age, a lot can happen in 8 years.

As to plans, I am going to tackle this in stages, but it’s entirely probable that some of the stages could overlap. Stage one is to get the truck running, driving, and stopping safely. Drive it for a while and evaluate what it needs in the way of repairs, if any. Probably will need something.

This stage will obviously have to include a new engine, and this is where my best laid plans have already gone astray. My original plan was to use up some of the good SBC stuff I have laying around and build a cheap small block to throw in it. Here is where I came up against a couple of harsh realities due to some of my future plans. The good assembled short block I have isn’t a roller cam block and, needed or not, I wanted a roller cam. This added significantly to the cost of the build even using the fresh ZZ4 aluminum heads I have. My estimate for the stuff I need has so far added up to approximately $1500 and I’ve probably missed something, with the cam and retrofit lifters being the most of that. All this would have given me a ZZ4ish clone engine that should have been around 350 HP which is certainly enough for what I want to do.

The second issue is the transmission. It’s mileage is unknown and it is an early 80’s 700, so it’s probably one of the weakest of all the 700’s. It is most likely fine behind the 305, but with the power of the new engine and what I will surely be doing with my heavy right foot, I doubt it will be long for this world. I want to keep some kind of automatic overdrive so that narrows any heavy-duty upgrade options. I could buy a “built” 700 from one of the well-known transmission companies, but they go for anywhere between $2500 to over $4000! That’s because to get them to hold up, apparently you have to throw away most of the internals and replace them with heavy aftermarket parts. I don’t particularly like this option.

I think the most sensible option is to go with a 4L80E because it is designed to hold up to heavy duty towing use and can even tow in OD. Heavier gearsets and larger clutches come standard. It’s said to be as strong as the old TH400, but with overdrive. The fly in the ointment is that it needs a stand-alone controller for carb use since it is normally controlled by the LS engine’s ECU. The controllers go for an average of about a grand for a good one. A good takeout 4L80 goes for $800 to $1200 around here, so we are looking at $2000+ to do one in my truck.

So now my “cheap” SBC is up to $3500+. As much as I hate to say it, these numbers are making an LS swap look like smarter money. I really was hoping to keep it small block, but when you also throw in the fact that I eventually wanted to go with some kind of EFI, it just doesn’t make financial sense. After building the small block and adding in the upgrades I want I could be looking at almost $5000 with EFI. Now, I could save some by hunting down a used trans controller and EFI unit, but I feel that would be buying someone else’s problems.

If I go with a mostly stockish LS and 4L80 as a takeout combo and break down on the road, I should be able to get any part I need from any parts store. That is appealing to me and aligns with the “easy to maintain” thing. It pains me to say that parts for the “old” Ford and Chevy engines are drying up and not nearly as common as they were. The GM ECU will have to be neutered as to disabling the anti-theft and after CAT O2 sensors. It will also have to be reprogramed for the new rear gear ratio and tire size. Lot’s of mail order places to do that now. I have the info needed to modify the stock engine harness into a standalone setup. It’ll just take a little time. The LS swap will also need some motor mounts and rear crossmember. I’m still looking at those. I could build them, but there are many, many parts already available. Hard to justify all the time for the engineering and fabrication when they are already available.

I’ll also pull the gas tank and most likely swap it for a Suburban 25-gallon unit with an internal fuel pump. The tank we built was just plain uncoated steel and I imagine it is full of rust by now. The 87 – 91 Suburbans were TBI and had internally baffled tanks as well as the sending units are made for an EFI pump.

Stage 1 will include a rearend change, too. I will be ditching the existing 10 bolt GM rear for a Ford 9” just because I have most of the stuff to build a nice setup pretty close to the right width. This will add a Tru-Trac (sp?) diff, 3.70 gears, disc brakes and 31 spline axles with Timken roller outer bearings. This should be strong enough to hold up to towing, hauling and my right foot.

Stage 2 will start with making the interior a nicer place to be. A better seat with some lumbar support, power windows because my back doesn’t like stretching across to roll the windows, nice sound system, get the AC/heat working and add a functional cruise control. I may also replace the instrument cluster with one of the nice analog aftermarket units that are available now. They really look good.

Stage 2 will also include a few body repairs and mods. The badly dented tailgate will be replaced, along with the passenger door. If I can find a good pair of power window doors, both will get replaced. The full width billet grille is going away, too. It looks good, but I don’t like several things about it. It blocks the headlights and makes bulb replacements a real job because the entire grille has to come out. It also could get you hassled by the right Barney Fife cop for blocked headlights. I will be replacing it with the setup from an 89 GMC Suburban with a billet grille. This gets me a later, updated look with 4 smaller headlights. Why GMC? Because they had a better-looking setup than the Chevies. No GMC badges will be seen.

This is what it should look like.



Stage 2 makes the truck completely usable for pretty much anything I want to do while stage 3 makes it prettier. This is where the body gets straightened and painted. Not a show paint job, just something that looks nice. It will stay GM Torch Red or thereabouts since the firewall, door jambs and interior are that color. I’m thinking of doing this paint job myself. I painted it the first time so I should be able to do it again. The main problem is that there are 2 coats of paint on it now, so some of it will have to come off.

Stage 4? Well, that’s a long way off most likely, but anything goes there and no real definite plans.

So that’s the beginning. I’m looking forward to this build and feel like I’m getting back to my roots so to speak. My friends and I were into “muscle trucks” long before Freiburger and Finnegan coined that term on Roadkill. We just didn’t call them that, but the concept was the same. For us, they were just hot-rodded trucks and, in my opinion, they might not be the fastest, but are the most practical hot rod you can own. This may very well be my last big car project (or maybe not) and I plan on enjoying it.

I saw what you did with the Healy (I'd be as chuffed as a steam engine to have that in my shed,) and now I'm looking forward to seeing what you can do with this. It's a good looking truck initially, but I'm sure you're going to subtlety improve it.

Good luck!

Thanks, Johnboy. I hope it turns out good.

But, the most important thing right now is that you are back on the keyboard. There was nobody to do birthdays! Hope you are improving every day.

I like your plans for the truck Mike, especially this part (might be because mirrors my philosophy on the last several builds and my current one).

“…..My main goal is to build a practical hot rod. One that can be used and easily maintained. If you get right down to it, most hot rods are really toys, much like a motorcycle. Something cool and fun to drive on special occasions, car shows or when the weather is good. I want a hot rod I can use all the time, not exactly a daily driver, but close and certainly usable for that if needed. I don’t want to build a perfect truck; I want a practical driver. Nice, but not too nice…….”

I might not be a good one to talk considering my choice of engines for my last few builds but you are correct about the parts for the older generations of engines we’re used to playing with drying up (and becoming more expensive as the supply draws down).

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I appreciate your logic on the engine choice/option thing. In a way, it mirrors the same sort of circumstances that rodders of the 50s and early 60s faced with going from a flathead to one of those SBC options. The cost to benefit ratio (along with relative size/weight/fit) made the SBC pencil out so much better. Sort of ironic that that self same engine is fading for similar reasons, albeit more than a half century later (mind boggling in its own right).

If I may, I have one request, even though it's YOUR truck. Nostalgia or not, PLEASE, no raised white letter tires.

Bob, your comparison to the flat head is one that I have made before too. The two most beautiful engines IMO are a dressed early Hemi and a fully dressed flat head. They are also among the most expensive engines to build. A built flat motor will be the most expensive 130 HP you will likely ever build.

I can fully sympathize with an older rodder in the early 60's. He's sitting on a bunch of nice flattie parts and they are doing him no good because technology has passed them by. Almost nothing you need to keep an old SBC running is available on the shelf at my local parts places. Spark plugs, a few gaskets and MAYBE an HEI ignition module. Everything has to come from the warehouse. For a vehicle you want to drive, the LS makes better sense.

FWIW - I've made the decision to sell off the SBC junk I have stuck back. Might get a little cash to fund this project. That's about the only way I'll get any use out of them before my wife has to sell them to the junk man. Yep, I'm feeling just like that old flat head guy!

OK, folks. Wasn’t expecting to make an update this soon, but last week was a good one.

I joined some Facebook groups that deal with square bodies and found some power window doors. About 2 ½ hours away but they looked good in the pictures, and I took a chance on them. Turns out the seller was a little less than completely truthful and the passenger door had been folded back a little in reverse. Driver door was good with one minor dent. I got the seller to knock a bunch off because of my long drive and carried them both home. Even if the passenger door is unusable, it still has all the power actuator stuff and both doors had better vent windows than the ones that are on the truck. I considered it a mostly winning hand.





On the way home, I passed close to an old country junk yard I used to go to. The owner passed away and his son worked off, so the yard kind of languished in weeds with the son selling stuff occasionally. I wasn’t expecting much but was surprised to see the property being cleared of under growth and the cars being sorted by brand. Seems the son quit his away job and started running the yard again full time.

I was able to wander around a little and think I found a usable passenger door on an old wrecker. It was still deep in the weeds and I couldn’t get a real good look, but what I saw was encouraging. Owner said he would be dragging it and another like it out soon, so that is a definite maybe on a decent passenger door carcass. All I need is a solid, straight shell.

I did find a pretty good tailgate. I’ve got to get back over there for a closer look. It had a stainless steel top edge guard screwed on and I didn’t feel like wrestling with the screws with just my Leatherman. Another definite maybe, but a better maybe than the door. This yard usually has good prices, too.

The wrecker also had a hydro-boost brake system and I’m interested in that. Did not appear to have any leaks, but it has been sitting for a loooong time. Told the owner I would need the pump and all the hoses. They might have to be replaced, but at least I’ll have something to go by. Not sure if I will go this way. It’s still in the planning stages and is just an option at this point. Need to do a little research first. I do have a low buck front brake upgrade planned and this would fit right into that.

The really big score came almost as my time off was winding down. I have been putting out some feelers with some old street rod contacts about needing an LS/4L80E combo. Turns out that a fellow I’ve known for years that had a hot rod shop has been having health problems and is shutting down his business. He just so happened to have an LQ4 6 liter and a 4L80E sitting in the corner of his shop. He picked it up several years ago and hung onto it in case a customer wanted something like it for a project. He told me I could have it for a good price so you know I went after it. Yet another 2 ½ hour one-way drive, but worth every mile.



The engine has the stock harness, which appears to be dirty but in good shape, and computer. It is a cable throttle setup and came out of a wrecked 3/4 or 1 ton van. It also is NOT Displacement on Demand so that is major plus for me. If I had gotten an engine with DOD, I would have had to do the DOD delete thing which can be pricey. The LQ4 isn’t the higher HP 6.0, but I think it will be more than good enough to start with. I could always throw a cam in it and get it tuned later if I felt the need. The engine is very clean. No evidence of any major leaks, if any real leaks at all. Trans has clean fluid that doesn’t smell burnt. Engine oil is dirty, though. The only thing I think it’s missing is the Mass Airflow Sensor. I’m pretty sure I have a 5 wire MAS left over from the early stages of the Healey build, just have to find it. To say I’m tickled at this stage is an understatement. I surely didn’t start the week thinking I would have most of the major parts in hand or at least located in a few short days!

I’ve also been making good on my vow to clean and organize my shop, as well as sell off as many of the old SBC parts as I can get decent money for. The cleaning has been a slow process, but the initial selling has been going well. Well enough that I can order the LS swap mounts and the EFI fuel tank stuff. My shop quite literally looks like some kind of automotive hoarder’s den. As I have accumulated “stuff” the usable floor space has shrank to where there are just a few paths to navigate in. Much of this junk I have come to realize will never be used. Maybe if I was 30, but not at this point in my life. Time to unclutter.

I have at least another 2 weeks cleaning and then have to get a 95 Z71 running for my granddaughter. No custom work, just fuel system and brake repairs. My son-in-law is helping, so it should go pretty quick. By then, I hope to have all the fuel system parts and LS swap mounts in hand. Then real fun can begin. Who am I kidding! Just getting out and beating the bushes (literally) on a new project has put a smile on my face. Feels like old times!

You had a bunch of great finds along the way. I agree, the ls option makes too much sense to going to a different direction anymore, everybody does it, because they're awesome. On a side note, I always knew what DOD did, but I never knew what it stood for, thanks, now I know lol.

Excuse my Kiwi ignorance, but what is Displacement On Demand?
I've never heard of it.

DOD is a system that uses engine oil pressure to control up to 4 lifters and shut down their operation under cruise conditions. It will also shut off the fuel to those cylinders too. It is a scheme used by GM and Dodge to get a tiny increase in fuel mileage on the bigger V8's. The problem is that it is failure prone on higher mileage engines. The special lifters fail and can wipe out the cam. This fills the engine with metal and is usually a death sentence. Folks I have talked to that disabled this system in the computer reported only a 1 to 2 mile decrease in fuel mileage. The best way to get rid of it is to replace the cam and lifters with non-DOD parts and plug the DOD oil passages. That's a big expense job if the engine is still in the car.

There are virtually no high performance cams available for it either.

From what I hear, the Dodge version doesn't give many problems but the Chevy is a ticking time bomb. I'm surprised that the increase in milage would be 1-2 mpg, I thought it would be less. I can hear my Dodge DOD kick in but it never lasts long.