Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Explanation of Common Tools:
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. #1
    mrmustang's Avatar
    mrmustang is offline Global Moderator Lifetime Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Greenville
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1970 GT 350 convertible, 289 FIA
    Posts
    1,463

    Wink Explanation of Common Tools:

     



    As emailed to me this morning by a good friend of mine in Florida.

    DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
    metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and
    flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that
    freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying.

    WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under
    the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and
    hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you
    to say, "YEOWW CRAPP...."

    ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes
    until you die of old age.

    SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

    PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of
    blood-blisters.

    BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor
    touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

    HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
    principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
    motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal
    your future becomes.

    VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt
    heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer
    intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

    WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction
    of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

    OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
    objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside
    the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

    WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
    motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2
    inch socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes.

    TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood
    projectiles for testing wall integrity.

    HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after
    you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly
    under the bumper.

    EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward
    off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

    TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

    E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known
    drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible
    future use.

    RADIAL ARM SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops
    to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work.

    TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of
    everything you forgot to disconnect.

    CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that
    inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end
    opposite the handle.

    AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

    TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a
    drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin,"
    which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits
    aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about
    the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say,
    the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark
    than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

    PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids
    and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on
    your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out
    Phillips screw heads.

    STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to
    convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

    AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning
    power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that
    travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty
    bolts which were last over tightened 30 years ago by someone at Ford, and
    instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts.

    PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
    bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

    HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

    HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
    used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts
    adjacent to the object we are trying to hit. Home owners primarily use it
    to make gaping holes in walls when hanging pictures.

    MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
    cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well
    on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles,
    collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts.
    Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
    Instead of being part of the problem, be part of a successful solution.

  2. #2
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    fort myers
    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
    Posts
    11,033

    He he, sounds like the person who wrote this has some personal experience with tools. All very true statements.

    I can especially relate to the drillpress thing !!!


    Don
    Last edited by Itoldyouso; 06-23-2007 at 09:30 AM.

  3. #3
    BradC's Avatar
    BradC is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Sparta
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Model A
    Posts
    541

    LOL........That's how we learn, drill press flying metal smack hands, bleed, next time using drill press clamp the metal down, no bleed. About now I've lost 100 quarts of blood, I should be the smartest guy around. Not true I still find ways to bleed all over the floor.
    Brad

  4. #4
    canadianal's Avatar
    canadianal is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    waldeck
    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 ford custom,27 t bucket
    Posts
    683

    ive used a 2x4 for exactly that

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink