Thread: Fiberglass quality.....Be-Bops in TN????

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I guess I wanted a Model A roadster for so long with limited funds that I tolerated the relatively minor problems. I posted a picture of my most recent solution ot the large trans tunnel on the "Everybody ..." thread so I won't repeat it here. In thinking back I might have solved that by somehow bending the brake pedal to the left, but it is too late now. Regarding the running boards on the '29, the stock braces are about 1 1/4" too low and BeBops told me to cut and reweld the brackets, but I am thinking I will just use four spacers under the boards, but maybe add a 0.25" aluminum plate as well since the boards flex quite a bit. I have been sitting on the boards while working on the interior and they do flex so aluminum plate underneath might be a good idea. I thought of putting shiny aluminum diamond plate on the top of the running boards but I like the look of the painted boards. Still I might go with the diamond plate. Either way the 'glass boards are a bit flimsy for heavy use.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teem rodder

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

I purchased my LAST chopper-gun fiberglass part about 4 years ago. I won't buy ANY fiberglass parts without making sure that they are hand-laid and I know the Heat Distortion Factor (HDF) for the resin. I learned the hard way.

i can feel your pain , thank god for forums as this one to find out about things before purchase

Originally Posted by Don Shillady

I guess I wanted a Model A roadster for so long with limited funds that I tolerated the relatively minor problems. I posted a picture of my most recent solution ot the large trans tunnel on the "Everybody ..." thread so I won't repeat it here. In thinking back I might have solved that by somehow bending the brake pedal to the left, but it is too late now. Regarding the running boards on the '29, the stock braces are about 1 1/4" too low and BeBops told me to cut and reweld the brackets, but I am thinking I will just use four spacers under the boards, but maybe add a 0.25" aluminum plate as well since the boards flex quite a bit. I have been sitting on the boards while working on the interior and they do flex so aluminum plate underneath might be a good idea. I thought of putting shiny aluminum diamond plate on the top of the running boards but I like the look of the painted boards. Still I might go with the diamond plate. Either way the 'glass boards are a bit flimsy for heavy use.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teem rodder

i cant really go the route you went for the simple reason i used a S10 frame , and thats pushing a lot of things off ,,re:fenders , running boards, back fenders.. i also have some other issues to be worked out and i will post for help when i decide to start my project as im still kinda sitting on my butte at the moment (cash flow) but it is good to know some folks have had some problems and its good to know how everyone worked them out.. thanks don

FLH....got some pics finally. These are after making sure cab, radiator and bed were aligned. This is the best I could make the fenders and running boards fit.

There was a trick I read about somewhere that if the parts are still in the curing stage you can use a hair blow dryer to heat the glass some to bring it around to clamp it to keep it in the correct shape till done curing. Never tried it and don't know how much heat, but best to keep it spead evenly and not blister it.

Originally Posted by shortyforty

There was a trick I read about somewhere that if the parts are still in the curing stage you can use a hair blow dryer to heat the glass some to bring it around to clamp it to keep it in the correct shape till done curing. Never tried it and don't know how much heat, but best to keep it spead evenly and not blister it.

Thanks....I'll try it. My biggest aggrevation is...they were suppose to 2" wider rears (as advertised) and they turned out to be 1". Ive stretched and spread, contorsionalized, and cursed till I was wore out , and they still were only 1" wider.

Oh well. I'll make them work.

D

Originally Posted by shortyforty

There was a trick I read about somewhere that if the parts are still in the curing stage you can use a hair blow dryer to heat the glass some to bring it around to clamp it to keep it in the correct shape till done curing. Never tried it and don't know how much heat, but best to keep it spead evenly and not blister it.

Well I tried using a heat gun. No such luck. Guess it was already cured? Or they were actually off that much.