Thread: Clearing my mind

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this might help back in the 70s I built alot off road comp jeep I was using pinto flex steering shafts that solved a lot problems they are super strong and work great 71-72 73 pinto used them check em out

Originally Posted by ted dehaan

this might help back in the 70s I built alot off road comp jeep I was using pinto flex steering shafts that solved a lot problems they are super strong and work great 71-72 73 pinto used them check em out

Can't use 'em in NHRA drag racing. They rust from the inside out and can fail at the most innoportune moment.

[QUOTE=Dave Severson
Have you ever noticed that the majority of guys who come on with the could of, should of, would of crap very seldom build anything themselves....

And those who complain the loudest about what you do with a car are usually driving their wife's mini-van??????[/QUOTE]
Hey her van works....ha ha! My friend Pete has a wife we call edith, as in archy bungers wife. She is the epidome of a minivan person. Every time Petes up to his neck in a project, it's I need you to do this right now! I keep recogmending taking her on hunting trips, accidents hapen all the time

Yup, hunting trips are fun!!!!!

Dave the stang would look good pillars back and the roof lowered a couple inches i have pictured that before .

Bob moving column was a thought . I went with manual steering and never turned one so i dont know what i'm up against or what size wheel I will need for ease of turning . I've been told that the R & P turn fairly nice and the front being light will help.

Ted thanks but i do have a R & P and column just trying to get them together in my app.

I'm one who shakes his head yes with a smile when someone is talking the bs . I was lurking here when i found J Robinsons build of the green machine . I was here a good while learning before i bought the A . I wanted to know if my skill was up to par , I knew i could find all the knowledge here i needed when i stumble . If i read something and dont really get it I'll ask the question again . I've been around cars long enough to figure them out but when it comes to building you need backing from years of know how .

Oh and guys pics are great help . Thanks So Much

Bobby,

I ran an IFS in a 31 A-Bone tudor sedan with a big block. I used some hardwood dowel rods to mock it up. You may need an extra u-joint or double u-joint to make it work, but a little planning will get it done.

The attached photo (not a good one, I'm afraid) shows the linkage in my '34. With pinched frame rails, there wasn't much room. This linkage goes to a Vega box, but the same idea would apply to an IFS. I did it the same way with both.

Oh, and the manual steering rack on my A-bone worked just fine.

Jack good shot i was thinking a double universal off the column would help me clear headers better . Thats the type of idea i was needing they will give up to 70 degree flex but hoping i wouldn't need near that much. The headers will fill the sides off the engine this is pic . I have alot of room on sides but collector is a little large .

More steering pictures, got a lot more but having problems getting them.

A lot of factory short columns have a center shaft with a universal joint on the ends, some smaller than others, easy to pull. Replace the shaft with the length you need, or use as is. Cheap to free at yards I go to.

Pat

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Dave the stang would look good pillars back and the roof lowered a couple inches i have pictured that before .

If it's a coupe(64.5-68), you can get away with a 5 inch chop with a forward rake.

The only fastback we did (68) required an extention to the rear sail panels to get the forward rake just right, but was also a 5 inch initial chop.


Bill S.

Bluestang, Here is what ive done right or wrong with my anglia chassis. the first pic shows I ran mine outside the frame
and over to the outside of the headers.

2nd pic shows I mounted the steering box, I think a corvair box on the outsie of the frame also. ironicly I narrowed so much
at the front for the straight axle it had to be there to meet the steering arm.

3rd pic shows I mounted the mid steering joint to the roll cage front upringht tube.

4th pic shows the whole assymbly from the steering box all the way to the steering wheel.

Now that ive sold the 427 chevy motor in the anglia, to be replaced with the 429/460 motor from the mustang.
I will also be changing to a rack at a later date.

And yes if anyone noticed that is an engine stand holding up the basketball rim and pole, I am officially a suburban hillbilly!

Originally Posted by mrmustang

If it's a coupe(64.5-68), you can get away with a 5 inch chop with a forward rake.

The only fastback we did (68) required an extention to the rear sail panels to get the forward rake just right, but was also a 5 inch initial chop.


Bill S.

Interesting... Did you pull the windshield back and retain the stock windshield opening????

A hint - no, actually a necessity. Once you get everything set up, don't depend just on the setscrew's friction alone. Drill a hole in the "DD" shaft about 3/16" deep so that the setscrew actually locks into the shaft.

Everyone probably knows that, but just in case . . .

T Y Moon



Best steering ed i have found in a awhile


Jack i figured that part to keep them from slipping . I was thinking about splined shaft . I read where if used you can index them in smaller increments to adjust any slight bind or problem in steering universals . To me I thought if you had the universals indexed proper there would be no bind. Maybe that would depend on the angle uni is at and a little slight adjust may be needed.

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

A hint - no, actually a necessity. Once you get everything set up, don't depend just on the setscrew's friction alone. Drill a hole in the "DD" shaft about 3/16" deep so that the setscrew actually locks into the shaft.

Everyone probably knows that, but just in case . . .

NHRA rules require that every position except the pinion be welded or through-drilled, bolted and nutted. At the hardened pinion, use a set screw long enough to get a lock nut on it.