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Thread: Clearing my mind
          
   
   

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  1. #31
    HemiTCoupe's Avatar
    HemiTCoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
    A hint - no, actually a necessity. Once you get everything set up, don't depend just on the setscrew's friction alone. Drill a hole in the "DD" shaft about 3/16" deep so that the setscrew actually locks into the shaft.

    Everyone probably knows that, but just in case . . .

    Reminders are always good!

    Pat
    HemiTCoupe



    Anyone can cut one up, but! only some can put it back together looking cool!
    Steel is real, anyone can get a glass one.


    Pro Street Full Fendered '27 Ford T Coupe -392 Hemi with Electornic Hilborn injection
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  2. #32
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    Denny i'm lost on that one . What do you mean by steering shaft moving .


    Tech i read where drilling through will weaken shaft by as much a 30 % . I thought milling a slight flat area or as Jack mentioned drill a indent would be best . To me drilling and bolt seemed alot more secure that is how the factory did it on the column i have . I was looking for a pinch type universal where bolt is on the very edge also .

    Hemi your right reminders are a thing that keeps everyone safe and from harm . Use them all the time at work as with everyone else also.

  3. #33
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
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    On a street car, I think that drilling a detent hole in the "DD" shaft, and using a hardened setscrew with a lock nut is sufficient. That's how I've always done them.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  4. #34
    Twitch's Avatar
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    Bluestang- I hope that ricketyazzed 77 year old frame has been WELL reinforced where we can't see in the photo or will be replaced. Compared to your Mustang that thing might as well be made outta toothpicks. Be Safe!
    There is no substitute for cubic inches

  5. #35
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    There is alot of time spent learning to build . Like you i agree i have even seen some frame builds that shouldn't be on the road . I started with a very straight and level frame . Frame is very solid not rusted away and very little pitting on it at all. . Includes webbing inside rails in places and boxing is all 10 ga. inside rails , all v ground with rail and welded solid . This metal is as think as any rail anyone builds and frames that sell in the K"s . When i'm completely finished with it my engine will not twist it . Not saying some 700 HP big block wouldn't but i'll be fine .

    There is many a car still on its original old frame running around . In this era the frame was a shock absorber flexing and twisting on the roads before they had brick . The owner or builder has to decide if the frame has too much fatigue and needs to be replaced for safety .

    Actually this frame is thicker then any part of the unibody frame on those mustangs . There not as well built as they should be .
    Last edited by bluestang67; 03-17-2008 at 09:56 AM.

  6. #36
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    Just be careful for the reason that steel quality of those days was not anywhere equal to today's regardless of thickness. I broke a frame and a A arm thick as chassis steel that I thought was impossible.
    There is no substitute for cubic inches

  7. #37
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    AAHH Titanic steel i uderstand .

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