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04-26-2008 09:29 PM #46
Originally Posted by brianrupnow
Have you tried it yet????Don D
www.myspace.com/mylil34
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04-27-2008 11:30 AM #47
I am pleased to announce that I just started the roadster pickup!!! No explosions, no fires, no heart attacks!!! It rattled for about 2 seconds untill it came up to full oil pressure, then all was well. Good oilpressure, smooth idle, no flooding, same as its always ran. I let it idle for about 15 or 20 minutes untill the engine come up to temperature and the electric fan kicked on, to boil any gasoline residue out of the exhaust system and crank case. (I had changed the oil and drained the filter). all seems to be well. HALLELUJAH!!!!Old guy hot rodder
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04-27-2008 11:44 AM #48
Good to hear Brian. Thanks for this thread. I've learned a lot and it helps me with future design issues for my trucks' fuel system. I was going to put a keg style tank in the bed, but probabaly will go with an under bed design now. If I do use the keg, I'll be sure to put a fuel shut off switch in! I love this place because I would rather not learn only from my own mistakes!" "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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04-27-2008 11:55 AM #49
Glad to hear it all went well.
Mike
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04-27-2008 03:06 PM #50
Thanks for sharing your experience Brian. I probably would have had the same problem but have now ordered an electric fuel cutoff for my situation.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
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04-27-2008 04:42 PM #51
Don---I am always glad to help out fellow hotrodders, especially when I discover something that has such dire consequences if not addressed properly. I spliced a connection into my coil feed from the switch, and wired in a 1 amp in-line fuse, as recommended by the makers of the solenoid valve.---It was very simple, and I don't have to remember to turn on a seperate switch or open a mechanical valve anywhere. During the summer months, when I use the hotrod as my daily driver, I don't want to have to remember anything except to turn the key to start it and turn it again to shut it off!!!Old guy hot rodder
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04-28-2008 08:34 AM #52
I guess after following this saga, Brian, I'm happy that I made the decision to go with a '32 style tank (and the great number number of hours it took to get there on an 'A' chassis !!) It's below the carb, so I have to worry about drain back insteadDave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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05-07-2008 05:13 AM #53
I got my valve installed yesterday and thought I'd thow up a picture up (even though this thread is pretty much done).
I'm using the same vale as Brian, but actually as a switch valve between the cab and frame tank. I just made sure it defaults to the frame tank when the key is off.I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....
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05-07-2008 10:05 PM #54
Hey, don't stop yet. What little I learned from amateur electronics taught me the principle of "fanout", ie current distribution in multiple paths. Brian mentioned he tapped into the coil circuit and Mike did something different. Since the cutoff valves use a magnetic solenoid I would expect they require some considerable current flow so my question is what is the best circuit to tap into for the ignition-on valve flow?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
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05-07-2008 10:15 PM #55
If your worried about current draw, just run a relayYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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05-08-2008 05:34 AM #56
".....Since the cutoff valves use a magnetic solenoid I would expect they require some considerable current flow so my question is what is the best circuit to tap into for the ignition-on valve flow?........"
Actually as I recall the current draw is pretty minimal (not sure how much though).
"......Very simple. Just wire it to the accessory fuse that's hot in the run position only......"
I haven't gotten past the point of just building the harness yet but Denny prett much hit it on the head as far as what I'll do when I get to that point. I'll be looking at whatever is hot in the run position.
Traditionally this era of Dodge has some issues with fuze box terminals heating/melting on a couple of the higher draw circuits (the AC for example). On those I will be using relays. Depending on how the fuze box is wired, the wiper circuit, or possibly the AC circuit (before the relay) come to mind.I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....
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05-08-2008 05:34 AM #57
Double post....sorryLast edited by Mike P; 05-08-2008 at 06:26 AM.
I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....
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05-08-2008 05:44 AM #58
The solenoid only requires a 1 amp fuse. That signifys to me a very low current draw. I tapped into the ignition circuit and put a 1 amp in line fuse in the wire.Old guy hot rodder
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