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Thread: Roadster Pickup comes home on the Hook!!!
          
   
   

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  1. #46
    Don Dalton's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3/W coupe
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    Quote Originally Posted by brianrupnow
    Denny---Thats what I plan to do. I have enough shit going on in my life without pulling the distributor.
    Brian you are cracking me up.LOL<LOL

    Have you tried it yet????
    Don D

    www.myspace.com/mylil34

  2. #47
    brianrupnow's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1931 Roadster Pickup
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    I am pleased to announce that I just started the roadster pickup!!! No explosions, no fires, no heart attacks!!! It rattled for about 2 seconds untill it came up to full oil pressure, then all was well. Good oilpressure, smooth idle, no flooding, same as its always ran. I let it idle for about 15 or 20 minutes untill the engine come up to temperature and the electric fan kicked on, to boil any gasoline residue out of the exhaust system and crank case. (I had changed the oil and drained the filter). all seems to be well. HALLELUJAH!!!!
    Old guy hot rodder

  3. #48
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    Good to hear Brian. Thanks for this thread. I've learned a lot and it helps me with future design issues for my trucks' fuel system. I was going to put a keg style tank in the bed, but probabaly will go with an under bed design now. If I do use the keg, I'll be sure to put a fuel shut off switch in! I love this place because I would rather not learn only from my own mistakes!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  4. #49
    Hotrod46's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1946 Ford Coupe, 1962 Austin Healey 3000
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    Glad to hear it all went well.

    Mike

  5. #50
    Don Shillady's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 29 fendered roadster
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    Thanks for sharing your experience Brian. I probably would have had the same problem but have now ordered an electric fuel cutoff for my situation.

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder

  6. #51
    brianrupnow's Avatar
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    Don---I am always glad to help out fellow hotrodders, especially when I discover something that has such dire consequences if not addressed properly. I spliced a connection into my coil feed from the switch, and wired in a 1 amp in-line fuse, as recommended by the makers of the solenoid valve.---It was very simple, and I don't have to remember to turn on a seperate switch or open a mechanical valve anywhere. During the summer months, when I use the hotrod as my daily driver, I don't want to have to remember anything except to turn the key to start it and turn it again to shut it off!!!
    Old guy hot rodder

  7. #52
    IC2
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    I guess after following this saga, Brian, I'm happy that I made the decision to go with a '32 style tank (and the great number number of hours it took to get there on an 'A' chassis !!) It's below the carb, so I have to worry about drain back instead
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  8. #53
    Mike P's Avatar
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    I got my valve installed yesterday and thought I'd thow up a picture up (even though this thread is pretty much done).

    I'm using the same vale as Brian, but actually as a switch valve between the cab and frame tank. I just made sure it defaults to the frame tank when the key is off.
    Attached Images
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  9. #54
    Don Shillady's Avatar
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    Hey, don't stop yet. What little I learned from amateur electronics taught me the principle of "fanout", ie current distribution in multiple paths. Brian mentioned he tapped into the coil circuit and Mike did something different. Since the cutoff valves use a magnetic solenoid I would expect they require some considerable current flow so my question is what is the best circuit to tap into for the ignition-on valve flow?

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder

  10. #55
    Matt167's Avatar
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    If your worried about current draw, just run a relay
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  11. #56
    Mike P's Avatar
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    ".....Since the cutoff valves use a magnetic solenoid I would expect they require some considerable current flow so my question is what is the best circuit to tap into for the ignition-on valve flow?........"

    Actually as I recall the current draw is pretty minimal (not sure how much though).

    "......Very simple. Just wire it to the accessory fuse that's hot in the run position only......"

    I haven't gotten past the point of just building the harness yet but Denny prett much hit it on the head as far as what I'll do when I get to that point. I'll be looking at whatever is hot in the run position.

    Traditionally this era of Dodge has some issues with fuze box terminals heating/melting on a couple of the higher draw circuits (the AC for example). On those I will be using relays. Depending on how the fuze box is wired, the wiper circuit, or possibly the AC circuit (before the relay) come to mind.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  12. #57
    Mike P's Avatar
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    Double post....sorry
    Last edited by Mike P; 05-08-2008 at 06:26 AM.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  13. #58
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    The solenoid only requires a 1 amp fuse. That signifys to me a very low current draw. I tapped into the ignition circuit and put a 1 amp in line fuse in the wire.
    Old guy hot rodder

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