Thread: Trailer Decking

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I've got the rotted decking ripped off of my flatbed, getting ready to go pick up new treated 2x stock 16' long. The original deck was 2x8x16's with one cut down to fit, and they used counter sunk torx head 1/4x20 bolts threaded into the crossmembers for retainers. I was originally going to simply replace with like size, replacing the threaded fasteners with 1/4x20 carriage bolts but the price of 2x8's, 2x10's or 2x12's is within $5 of each other. Is there any advantage to using wider planks, other than fewer bolts? I'm thinking it really does not matter much, but this is my first trailer deck job

Roger, something that I like to do is not bolt the boards in! I just use some flat stock at both ends and capture the boards, let'em float. They'll stay cleaner and the bolt holes won't promote rot! Plus they can expand / contract as they need to! And if a board does get damaged, simply cut the weld on one end and remove the bad board! I've been doing it this way for 20 - 25 years and never an issue!

You know, I could not figure out why they bolted down the boards, but I was hesitant to leave them loose since they came that way. My trailer captures the back end under the edge of the checker plate dovetail, and up front there's a piece of 2" angle welded across to catch the front. I'm pretty sure I can lay a board in place and use a long pry bar to bow it up to pop into place. The originals were very tight side to side, and I'm thinking a little bit of expansion room would be better, especially since I'm putting them in place very cold. What width do you use, and how much side to side space do you leave when you cut that one board to fit?

why not just deck it with aluminum non skid??? probably won't cost much different from the treated lumber and will be a lot lighter and oh so much better looking

Originally Posted by rspears

You know, I could not figure out why they bolted down the boards, but I was hesitant to leave them loose since they came that way. My trailer captures the back end under the edge of the checker plate dovetail, and up front there's a piece of 2" angle welded across to catch the front. I'm pretty sure I can lay a board in place and use a long pry bar to bow it up to pop into place. The originals were very tight side to side, and I'm thinking a little bit of expansion room would be better, especially since I'm putting them in place very cold. What width do you use, and how much side to side space do you leave when you cut that one board to fit?

I use what ever breaks up the closest so I don't have to make a cut with an 1/8" between boards. I usually end up with one narrow(er) board say a 6" amongst the 8's.

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

why not just deck it with aluminum non skid??? probably won't cost much different from the treated lumber and will be a lot lighter and oh so much better looking

I agree it would be nice, but the support crossmembers are built for wood and would have to have 1.25" spacers added or be cut out and re-welded. Treated lumber is about $150 with tax (and no bolts now!!). I would think 16'x6.5'x0.25" checker plate aluminum would be between $2500 and $3000. Of course I guess you could just do strips, leaving the center open and reduce that cost some, but for an occasional hauler I think wood makes sense. Thanks for the idea, though.

Originally Posted by 34_40

I use what ever breaks up the closest so I don't have to make a cut with an 1/8" between boards. I usually end up with one narrow(er) board say a 6" amongst the 8's.

Yeah, and 8's will bow easier, too. I'll go with 2x8's, leave a little space for drainage and cut down one like the originals. Thanks, Mike! You saved me a bunch of drilling, plus an hour or more laying on the cold, cold ground putting capture nuts on all the bolts!!

Originally Posted by rspears

Yeah, and 8's will bow easier, too. I'll go with 2x8's, leave a little space for drainage and cut down one like the originals. Thanks, Mike! You saved me a bunch of drilling, plus an hour or more laying on the cold, cold ground putting capture nuts on all the bolts!!

Glad to be of service!
I don't like making cuts, I'm lazy!

They don't use .250

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

They don't use .250

What do they use, Jerry? 0.125" would be in the $1200 to $1500 range, and 0.80" about $900 to $1200 plus the rework to the supports to bring them up to deck level. My lateral supports are on 24" centers - I'd think 1/8" aluminum would bow over that span, especially given the dynamic loads on the road. I'll have it rolling again for $150 plus a $10 can of Rustoleum to paint the "hidden" supports that they skipped before....

My last flat bed trailer(it was originally a sprint car hauler) was rebuilt from the 2x lumber to 5/4 treated decking. I added several angle iron cross members for some more support and several years later, even after parking it in the woods was still in good shape when the new owner dragged it away.

Dont forget to turn the boards the correct way so they dont warp as bad......the correct side up, that is.

Did you consider a composite material like Trex or one of those? That stuff is reputed to last almost forever, and do away with warping and cupping; it also has a sort of natural non-skid texture to it. I have heard of it being used for trailer decking, and seen it on house decks, and the idea sounds pretty good to me; I would sure consider it if I were to build or re-deck a trailer.

Originally Posted by Rrumbler

Did you consider a composite material like Trex or one of those? That stuff is reputed to last almost forever, and do away with warping and cupping; it also has a sort of natural non-skid texture to it. I have heard of it being used for trailer decking, and seen it on house decks, and the idea sounds pretty good to me; I would sure consider it if I were to build or re-deck a trailer.

Ya' know, I actually have a dozen nominal 2x6x16' Trex deck boards left over from my deck rebuild this summer, but I've been concerned with the 24" span and the flex of the material. Maybe the thing for me to do is weld in five or six more laterals, putting them at 12" spacing, and use the Trex.

Originally Posted by rspears

Ya' know, I actually have a dozen nominal 2x6x16' Trex deck boards left over from my deck rebuild this summer, but I've been concerned with the 24" span and the flex of the material. Maybe the thing for me to do is weld in five or six more laterals, putting them at 12" spacing, and use the Trex.

Up here in my section of MA., you would have to do 12" centers even on a house deck when you use Trex! I am not familiar with decking with Trex. I do know that it is NON structural! I think I'd stay away from it for a Car trailer but a short utility trailer should sneak by.. My own utility trailer has the usual low grade 2 x 6 for a deck, only trapped on the ends and is a dozen years old and still looks great. What I removed had been bolted in and around each bolt, the holes wallowed out with rot and the bolts were rotted from being wet around the wood.