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Thread: For Don Shilady
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    36 sedan's Avatar
    36 sedan is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 36 Ford Sedan, 23 T Bucket
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    Please don't miss understand, I'm not trying to challenge or argue with any one, simply trying to clarify so as to not confuse OP.
    IMHO, while to much play in the distributor may cause irratic time (jumping up & down), only a few things can cause the timing to creep (advance). One would be something inside sticking and not returning completely as I mentioned earlier (advance plate sticking), or possibly something external influencing the distributor base. And why I mentioned base shims, if the distributors shaft does not engage the oil pump correctly (slightly too long, it happens, why they make shims), as the motor heats up it could move the distributor slightly. Of course eventually if not corrected it will damage the gears. Just saying it's worth a check.
    NTFDAY and rspears like this.

  2. #2
    NTFDAY's Avatar
    NTFDAY is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '66 Mustang, 76 Corvette
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    Quote Originally Posted by 36 sedan View Post
    Please don't miss understand, I'm not trying to challenge or argue with any one, simply trying to clarify so as to not confuse OP.
    IMHO, while to much play in the distributor may cause irratic time (jumping up & down), only a few things can cause the timing to creep (advance). One would be something inside sticking and not returning completely as I mentioned earlier (advance plate sticking), or possibly something external influencing the distributor base. And why I mentioned base shims, if the distributors shaft does not engage the oil pump correctly (slightly too long, it happens, why they make shims), as the motor heats up it could move the distributor slightly. Of course eventually if not corrected it will damage the gears. Just saying it's worth a check.

    I totally agree with you .
    I believe these are the shims I'm talking about
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moroso-2614...5Zz633&vxp=mtr
    and these are the the shims you are talking about
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Moroso-2615...!US!-1&vxp=mtr
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  3. #3
    Don Shillady's Avatar
    Don Shillady is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 29 fendered roadster
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    Hello All,

    My main computer really freaked out but I am back on the Internet with an old spare laptop using Windows7. Meanwhile I went a short distance up the street to see Chester Houghtaling at Progressive Auto (engine builder with his own dyno) and he confirmed the Gen 1 did not have a cam button and flat tappet cams have tapered faces to rotate the lifters and this only retards timing if the cam walks a bit. Roller cams need a cam button because the faces are flat on a roller cam. Overall the car starts easily now but for how long? Soooo I also tracked down the Big End to China and even though the electronics of alternate Pertronix dizzies are made in the USA the mechanical part of those is also made in China. Now I think the advance mechanism sticks on a high angle while running but when I start the engine the advance is way too high. Maybe a slightly stronger spring might pull the advance back to 10 degrees but I have not been able to find the right set of springs for this distributor. I guess I am looking for a Pertronix D100700? but that will take a week or two. Maybe I could "debur" the distributor I have now?

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder
    Last edited by Don Shillady; 04-12-2018 at 05:30 PM. Reason: spelling

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